jeepcoma

Hey! I'll give you $15 for em! :brows:

Isn't that a re-listing? I remember a few before that were worth their weight in gold.

Also be sure to try a few scrubbers with different textures. Some fit in the nooks and crannies of the surface you're cleaning better than others.

Tetris Master of Orion X-COM: UFO Defense

It was very deep and took a long time to cross! Yeah about 12 minutes passed between the first and second shot. Does the thing change color from silver to blue too?

Replaced clutch master cylinder (fixed all my woes). Also put on a new cap and rotor. Have plugs too, Denso PK16TT, but am waiting for the 6A install before bothering.

And the winner is... DING DING DING the master cylinder!! As soon as I got the replacement I knew the old one just wasn't right, but I never had anything to compare it to before so I simply didn't know. I removed the old plastic piece of crap and it was completely buggered up. I'll go get some pictures later and put them in my build thread. Feels like a new truck now. I got the Rhinopac master cylinder from RockAuto, $30 bucks shipped.

+1 on aussie lockers. I have no problems with them in the snow, and 4x4 is just incredible.

I believe it's controlled from the transfer case but I'm not positive on that. The vacuum is supposed to pull the CAD in one direction when in 2x4 (to keep it disengaged) and then reverse the pull when in 4x4 (to engage). I'm not sure how the t-case actually controls that though except that it must be operated somehow by the lever.

Got my new clutch master cylinder, hope to put it in tomorrow and cure all my woes.

No lines = no vacuum motor. The cad will just sit where it is, which would likely be disengaged. Even if you engaged it, then removed the vacuum lines, it would probably work its way over to the disengaged position over time. It's super easy to mod the cad to be fully engaged. Remove the cover (which has the cad shifter fork attached to it; have some rags ready as it will be a windy day and gear oil will blow in your face), slide the collar to the engaged position on the axle. Then take a look at the shifter fork. It's retained in position on a rod by a C-clip. Pop the clip out, hold the rod in position and slide the fork to the other side until it passes the groove for the clip, then put the clip back on. You can plug then vacuum lines or remove them, I traced mine back to a vacuum block that's on the driver's side at the tranny/transfer case and plugged it there. No matter what you do with the lines, be sure you block off the two holes on the cad cover since you don't want crud getting in there.

Pennzoil Synchromesh or the expensive Redline MT-90 is safe for your brass synchros.

Just pop it into 4H while you're neutral on the throttle. You can switch back and forth between 2H and 4H while stopped or in motion (if you're easy on the throttle; you shouldn't slam it in while you're accelerating or on the brakes). Come to a stop for 4L. You'll feel it drive and steer differently once 4wd is engaged, it will want to pull you to straighten out, but with an open front end it won't be huge. Hit pavement in 4wd and it will feel all wrong straight away (make good use of that shift-on-the-fly 4wd and get it in and out as necessary).

Correct, the left wheel will be locked to the half-shaft of the right wheel and won't need to differentiate. Or, if you've eliminated the CAD by some means, the front will ratchet even in 2x4. Me, I wouldn't bother with the cable system and either use the stock vacuum CAD (and make sure it's in good working order) or bypass the CAD and leave it locked full time (which is what I have).

That's cool. I wish I had some. Any extras??

It's pretty sweet :banana: :banana:

I think the main reason is that when the locker is ratcheting, there is very little pressure trying to clamp the teeth together (because when there is pressure, it's locked). At least with my aussie locker, it's very easy to manually disengage the locker when a wheel is in the air, there's pretty much no resistance. As soon as the driving power overcomes the differential force from turning, it locks. When it's locked, it's the power from the engine that keeps it engaged, and in order to unlock the differential force needs to overcome the very slight spring pressure (and engine power, which is zero) holding the teeth together. At least that's my basic understanding :hmm: Aussie has more detailed information on their site and I'd assume any of the other popular lockers do as well. You could. If you ignore the "CAD-is-the-worst-invention-in-the-history-of-the-human-race" rants, it doesn't seem like a bad idea. I'd have mine working but I have a one-piece axle instead. I've never been in a situation where I needed the working CAD, nor has it been an issue, though for off-roading it might be more of a consideration? (I don't do serious off-roading, but I think certain conditions are better approached with the ability to select). If I had a stock two-piece axle I'd get the CAD working though, and maybe just shim it for the winter to not have to worry about it failing when you really need 4wd (if you worry about that sort of thing).

Yeah but it keeps the beer frosty :cheers:

Any chance the vacuum line to the power brake booster is off/damaged? Serious vacuum leaks will cause poor/impossible running at lower RPMs. Definitely put a vacuum gauge on there anyway and see what's going on. If you can get it to run at 2000 rpm you can get a timing light on it and see what it's doing, and then slowly back down the RPM. If you can't read the markings at that rpm you should at least be able to see if it's jumping around or nice and stable. Disconnect the vacuum advance and put a gauge on it.

Guess I'll find out if it's the MC or not, just ordered a new one from rockauto. Seems like a logical first step, if it fixes the problem I don't need to spend any money on unnecessary parts and the time to put them in. If it doesn't fix it, I'll bite the bullet and replace pretty much everything else, since I'll only want to do the job once.

One year ago yesterday, I was in the snow working on my jeep. Just like this year :fs1:

I flushed all the old fluid out with a brand new bottle of DOT3, it made no difference to the sticking problem. However I did discover that if I do not take my foot off the clutch but instead leave it depressed about 1/4" or so (not enough to ride the clutch, just to keep pressure on the pedal) that it never gets stuck. As soon as I take my foot off though, it sticks. It's no longer just rock hard either, it will push in with a lot of resistance and then "click" and work like normal again until I take my foot off the clutch. It feels like a mechanical binding, but I'm not sure how to figure out where without throwing money at it. And of course this could have happened at any time during the summer and I wouldn't have cared, since it's my winter vehicle, but of course it has to happen now when it's snowing all the time and I can't get anywhere without the Jeep. I'm thinking (hoping) it's just the clutch master cylinder that's worn out? If I look at the master from the engine bay, I can see it flexing left and right and loud noises from it. I know I should replace the slave cylinder at the same time, but it's internal and I do not want to remove the transmission at this point in time to do it: a quick fix now would suffice to get me through the winter and I can fix it the right way when I'm not lying in a snow drift to do it.

Just went out with the wife and the flashlight to poke around and see if anything was obviously wrong. The clutch was still stuck, and I noticed the reservoir mounted to the firewall flexed when she applied pressure. Eventually it just went to the floor like nothing was ever wrong. I took the cap off and the level was good, and had her pump the pedal slowly while I looked at the fluid. There was never any movement in the fluid whether it was sticking or moving smoothly, so I put the cap back on and tried the pedal myself. I'll try flushing the fluid again tomorrow after work. With the engine off (hasn't been running since this morning) It seems to have three distinct modes: completely frozen, normal operation, or hard pedal that moves with a distinct "click/clunck/tap" noise after about half-way travel. It really feels as if it's a mechanical obstruction, like something is flopping in the way and either holding it up completely or partially blocking the way and then getting suddenly getting forced out of the way. The pedal will just work like normal for four or five pumps, and then stick, and then just as suddenly work normal again. Putting the tranny into or out of gear or rowing through the gears didn't seem to make a difference. I looked at the linkage I could see from under the dash, nothing seemed to be blocking anything. I replaced the little retainer (brain fart and can't remember the name, it looks like a bobby pin and you stick it up to the "eye" and then bend the ends) just in case it was binding on anything (it wasn't). Can that plastic linkage be binding up any anything? Is there a diagram anyone has of the pedal linkage, so I can get an idea of what's going on fast where that rod disappears into the firewall?

I thought of using heat but the fact that it "froze" randomly in the summer as well confuses me. It's also useful that this intermittent problem is currently faulting, meaning maybe I can see exactly what the problem because I can see what's gone wrong. If I just wave a heat gun around under there and it goes away, it's just another intermittent problem. I flushed the fluid earlier this summer, I was hoping to fix a chatter problem I was having after extended driving. After driving for some time (less time in the heat of summer), the clutch would chatter when trying to move from a stand-still, I also kinda thought that might have been water in the line. Flushing didn't seem to make any difference to the chattering problem. Neither of us can remember if the "freezing" problem first happened before or after the flush. Some other things I've found:

Wife just got back in, she said the previous times when it happened, the temp was well above freezing, so it seems frozen water in the line might not be so likely... :dunno: Supposed to take the truck to Boston tomorrow to stay with a friend for new year's :fs1: Of course the MJ craps out now.