husky410ohio

Here is a picture after I painted it and installed the tray

I replaced my battery tray with the heavy duty all steel fabricated from DirtBound off-road: http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/jeep-cherokee-xj/accessories/optima-34-78-bolt-in-battery-tray-jeep-cherokee-xj.html This is for the optima battery which I will only use. They also make a universal steel tray too in .120 thick steel.

NP231 with AA SYE and new chain

Hi Incommando, I cut the cab corner out of my parts truck today. Let me know if you want it. Richard

The alternator belt has excessive wear so I got a new lower bracket mount from summit number SME-2000. The upper mount I sand blasted and had zinc plated for $10 by Nicks plating and they had it done next day. I also have a Wangler Power Products 140 amp alternator I will rebuild later.

found a vid of it too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjPEGuD9pyo

Entering the lodge Crossing water on the trail

We arrived Friday at noon for Jeep rally, grilled polish sausages, walked around the Jeep area and went on the off-road trail ride. We tent camped at the campground but needed eggs for breakfast so we drove into College Corner on Indiana/Ohio border and stopped at CC Tavern and had a Hamms beer then to Walmart. Saturday we drove around the lake, golf course and pioneer house. Stopped in Oxford for for fuel and then saw the black covered bridge. In the afternoon we rode on the trailer to the Jeep farm demo then back to the lodge then it start to pour rain so we went inside to the lounge and had a draft. Went back to camp and grilled steak skewers. It was great to meet Don and all the other Jeep people.

I will arrive Friday afternoon. I want to go to the trailride on Friday at 4:00pm.

I will look for your truck next Friday at Heuston Woods. I should be there at 3:00

I pre-registered but they raised the entry from $15 last year to $25. I do not know what Friday only would be and I did not know there is a trail ride. I want to explore the park roads around the lake. On Saturday I will go to the farm for the Jeep farm demo. I had a new front drive shaft made last week and will be working on my comanche and will now have 4 wheel drive,

I will be at this years 2015 rally May 29 and 30 http://www.mw-willysjeep.com/ I will bring the 304 stainless tailgate handles with me. http://hoppityhop.com/epages/fda5557b-fb08-47d0-8a50-d23668ec27f8.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/fda5557b-fb08-47d0-8a50-d23668ec27f8/Products/%22Comanche%20Jeep%20MJ%22

The largest I could find was 29mm in solid steel but it cost $244 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aco-516/overview/year/1989/make/jeep/model/cherokee

I had saved the sketch someone made but have no dwg drawing. Would this help? .

There are many parts made for this conversion by Novak and Advance Adapters. I have a 350 Chevy SM465 transmission http://comancheclub.com/topic/45604-88-pioneer-4x4-long-bed-with-350-chevy-sm465-truck-transmission-motor-swap/?hl=350+chevy

It is not as wide as original. I made the width straight on the sides. The original handle had a dogleg bend on the sides that would have been hard to make. The width fits the part that has the pivot mechanism.

I got the tailgate latch handles today and took some pictures. The original plastic flange bearings from the old handle will fit the holes with two M7 screws to replace the rivets that I drilled out. I also drilled 1/4 inch and tapped the three holes that bolt the assembly to the tailgate and used 5/16-18 x 1/2" button head chrome plated screws. The price is US$32.00 plus shipping (I was charged sales tax and I am not profiting from the sales)

The stainless handle will weigh .75 pound. I thought about aluminum but my experience it always cracked bending 90 degree or more.

I added a hem fold as shelbyluvv suggested so the handle would not have a sharp edge and sent the drawing out for quote. Best price is $30 each and I would need to add shipping to the cost. After I place the order it will take 2-3 weeks to manufacture. I can ship US Priority mail and delivery is 2-3 business days in the continental US. A flat rate box would cost $12.65 in the continental US but if you want to order please email me your zip code and I can check if a plain US Priority box is best price. Also I can ship International to Canada by US Priority mail International and delivery is 3-5 days. Any other country US Priority mail International is 6-10 day delivery. I can accept Paypal, check or postal money order. Please email me at husky410ohio@aol.com

It is SolidWorks and I was told that the estimating tool was added in our last upgrade but I have not tried it. I do have several sheet metal suppliers and plan to get several made. The flat pattern is below. The old handle had rivets that I drilled out to remove it. I plan to use shoulder screws with shoulder bushings to attach the new handle.

I traced a rusted latch that Strokermj gave me and modeled it in sheet metal on the computer. I want to get a cost to have the flat pattern cut. Would anybody be interested in one? If I have a rough number quantity I will get a price. See picture below Richard

Opps my parts truck is an 86 not 87. Anytime you need anything from it StrokerMJ let me know. How can I remove the back window from it without breaking?

I found the plug on my 87 parts truck was different than my 88. I fixed my original wires that had been hacked up by soldering butt conectors and heat shrink tubing. Someone email me the following text: After searching the forums is became apparent that there is a lack of information on wiring trailer harnesses to the MJ. Although it would be nice to get one of those 'plug and play' type kits that are available for the newer vehicles, they are in very short supply for the 86-92 trucks we drive (at least down here). Jeepcomj had a great idea in one of his posts, go to the junkyard and get the under body to stop/turn/parking light harness connector (both sides), leaving enough loose wires to create your own 'plug and play' set, but that still does not address our hook-up problem...so: The rear stop/turn/parking harness has 5 actual wires in it, and although there are numerous factory splices to duplicate wires to each of the plugs, the wire codes are as follows: Brown: Right turn and brake light Black: Ground Blue: Tail (parking) lights Brown with white tracer: Backup light Grey with black tracer: Left turn and brake light Another way to explain it: Assuming you are standing at the the back of the truck, the LEFT side being the drivers side, and the RIGHT side being the passenger side, the main body ground will be behind the left tail light, and the plugs on the left side will have the gray w/ blk tracer wire. The right side will have the brown wire. To hook up a six pole receiver you have six wires: White: Ground (Don't ask why...) Brown: Tail (parking) Yellow: Left Turn Green: Right turn Blue: Electric trailer brake Red: Auxillary Harness TO Receiver: Brown TO Green Blue TO Brown Black TO White Brown w/white TO Red (my choice - my trailer has reverse lights) Grey w/black TO Yellow For a 4 wire flat connection it would be: Harness TO Flat 4: Brown TO Green (sometimes with yellow tracer) Blue TO Brown Black TO White Grey w/ black TO Yellow

I removed the old fusible link wires at the battery and added a new main 70 amp fuse to a 4 circuit 30 amp fuse block from Painless that I mounted on the inner fender. At work they scraped a machine that had an electrical box perfect size for the MSD 6AL ignition box that I painted hammer-tone in front of the blower motor. The aluminum bracket I made under the box is hinged. Remove the wing nut you can lift up the box and get to the blower. The braided cable from positive battery goes to the starter. The large fused red wire is for an AMP The small fused red wire is wired to a switch on the dash for a pusher electric fan mounted in front of the radiator. Maxi fuse: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80101 Fuse block: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30002 The fuse block replaces fuse links F,H and J. And G is not needed with mechanical fuel pump. Hope this helped.

I used a Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing and Novak radiator. I would check Summit they list several radiators made for the conversion. The Novak radiator has a built in cooler for an auto transmission that I plugged. Summit had radiators for the manual transmission. For wire the old engine wiring harness unplugs and throw it out. I used a Painless Performance fuse block and MSD 6AL ignition and a hot wire for the chock. I can take a picture of the wiring if you like to see. http://comancheclub.com/topic/45604-88-pioneer-4x4-long-bed-with-350-chevy-sm465-truck-transmission-motor-swap/?hl=350+chevy