flint54

Parts headed you way, left today. Tom

I sent my D35 to the scrap yard, but I got the ubolts and plates: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36244-buncha-small-parts-fl/

Are those really red headlights?? If you plan to drive it, make it safe (brakes and tires) and legal (bumpers) first, then worry about how it runs. Don't waste money you don't have trying to make a silk purse from a sows ear, just enjoy it until you can save enough to do more.

Send me your address, tell me which one you would like to have, and call it Merry Christmas. Just buy me a Molson next time I'm in Canada. Tom

The adjustment can resolve offset, but not inconsistency. Mine also used to read 3/4 full when tank was totally full, and I was able to resolve that easily.

If you're talking about the outside wipes, I found mine at the JY, dirt cheap. For lack of a better word, they have "biting" clips that pinch onto the door sheet metal. I remove them with the butt end of a 1 x 2, tapped with something. Work slowly from one end and you will see they come of easily. Start at the back, as the front end sort of tucks into the adjacent trim. RE: smoke at fuse block. That's not good. Recommend you pull that fuse now, until you find out why the draw is too high. Check the connections, clean the connections, You may have a blower motor heading south, RE: dash lights. Have you pulled the instrument cluster to check for bad bulbs? It's fairly easy. Four screws for the trim and six for the cluster.

You know it is adjustable? If your sending unit is reading slightly high or low it has a built-in adjustment range by setscrew which alters the float position with respect to the rheostat winding. I was able to dial mine in with this adjustor nicely.

Ran across an 86 longbed 4x4 for sale. It has 213K miles, has a 4.0 HO & AX-15 (with 100K miles) transplanted. D30/D35, been wheeled hard. Floors pitted but not perforated. It needs (at the least) the following: Fuel pump, ignition switch, front right hub, headlight switch, turn signal switch, wiper motor, It cranks but doesn't start (fuel pump confirmed bad). Bed is good, tailgate dinged, body looks decent all around. Bench seat, and more than a fair share of "custom" wiring surprises. Has been lifted at least six inches, UCA/LCA kit, owner says it wobbles a lot. Tires are poor. I think it's a $500 truck, owner thinks more. What do you all think it is worth?

I got really lucky and found one on a 90 MJ at the JY yesterday!

RE: "...Its like saying you can paint red, white and blue over a democrat....it will simply never stick." YAAA-HOO !!! Sorry for the off topic comment, but this one has put a smile on my face that will probably last for days - thanks! And, coatings will adhere well to the iron phosphate that Ospho converts the oxide to, I've seen it last for years, but you can never do better than properly prepared (degreased, etched, and abraded) metal that is totaly absent of any oxidation and carefully primed. You asked for a temporary fix because it's cold outside, but why not just wait and do a permanent fix?

1) abrade ro remove loose scale 2) coat with Ospho 3) coat with POR-15 Once you open the POR-15 you have to eitiher use up the can or be prepared to sacrifice the unused portion as it will cure in the can no matter how tight you hammer the lid.

The black label/face snaps onto three white posts, and sometimes has a bit of adhesive. They are interchangeable. IT is much thicker than a sticker, it's a hard plastic probably 12-15 mil thick.

The good news is that the new windshield looks great, and the rubber molding is SO much better than the old metal trim! The bad news is that the installer chipped the RH "A" piller trim in the process. I'm in need of a replacement, needs to be in excellent shape. THANKS !!!

Here's what I have, will any of these work? The switch works in any position.

Here's how I'm going to do mine: http://comancheclub.com/topic/26803-an-plumbing/ As soon as the few remaining projects higher on the list get done.

Pretty sure I have this,,,,in a box somewhere. I'll look when I get home tonight.

Do not recall the other thread, but a few basic questions please to refresh us: 1) Does it crank, i.e., turn over readily with the starter? 2) Have you measured the fuel pressure and the fuel flow rate at the rail? 3) Have you checked for spark at each plug wire? 4) Have you tried a shot of starter fluid into the air intake? 5) What do the plugs look like? 6) What are the compression values?

Not sure about the 100 amp, but I can tell you with certainty that the 136 amp from a 99 WJ will require minor trimming to make fit.

Interesting. I wonder what the objection might be? I doubt it is a design or a performance issue, otherwise 4wd and manual trans would not be offered together and I've seen a great many of them paired. Perhaps they don't line manual trans? There are surely times when I wish my truck was an auto, in fact the thought of converting creeps into my head from time to time. I just cannot see how the T case and the manual trans coud be detgrimental to each other, or how the trans would even have a clue whether it was being chased by a 231 or a 242, or any other device. Anyone here wish to offer any concerns or observations?

Success! Had to make a few modifications, but it works as it should now. Here's the writeup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36155-novak-shift-cable-on-np-242/ in the DIY section.

It can be done. Novak says it should work fine as is. I say it can be made to work, but it will take some customizing. Their cable shifter is smooth as silk, very well made, and will work out of the box for NP-231. For NP-242 it required some changes. The NP-242 shift sector has five positions and requires a significant arc swing betwen 2-High and 4-Low. With Novak shift lever installed to the T case, that arc translates into a throw distance of 3.20 inches. The Novak cable has a total available throw length of 3.10 inches. Their fixed brackets limit the adjustment range of the cable ends so it is nearly impossible to effectively get the full throw. Here's how to make it work. First, you need to open the slots in the shift gate, both front and back, 1/4 inch each way. Next, the threaded rod at the shifter end of the Novak cable needs to be shortened to 5/8" total threaded length, measured from the nut that remains installed.. This permits the ball fitting adapter to thread down fully and was neccessary to achieve the throw length match. be sure to carefully chase these threads before reinstalling the ball fitting. The outer cable adjustment at the shifter end needs to be set completely forward as shown here. The outer cable adjustment at the T-case lever end needs to be set completely aft as shown here. And when I say completely, I mean one nut has just barely full thread engagement. Now, the change that really made the biggest difference is to shorten the arc length of the Novak shift lever so that the total required throw length (from 2H to 4L) is reduced to just under 3.0 inches. I played with some numbers and came up with requiring a new attach hole that is 1/2" center to center from the original hole. Shown here in layout. And here after drilling. And here as installed. I'm really pleased with how this turned out, and the only thing I might consider doing is to create a longer arm on the OEM shifter where the Novak cable ball fitting attaches. It should also eliminate the need to change the shift gate slots.

After a lengthy, meticulous, and costly surgery, it now appears I just might have to go in again, but I surely hope not! Here's the deal. I converted from 231 to 242, and my 242 needed an input gear swap to 23 spline. So, I did a full-up rebuild, all bearings, bushings, pads, seals, chain, the works. I followed the FSM each and every step and image and double checked everything. Bench checkout seemed to confirm perfection. Now it's back in the vehicle, along with a Novak cable shifter (adjusted per their tech sheet), and the correct 242 shift gate. With the shifter full forward, I get 2wd. Next notch I get part time 4wd. Next notch I get full time 4wd. Offset and next notch I get neutral. Pull shifter to full back of gate and I get........neutral. I cannot get 4wd low. I even pulled the gate off to make sure that wasn't the problem. Per Novak, some shifter handles were delivered with wrong angle, they sent me a template for correct angle and mine was perfect. I'm not in dire need of 4wd low, but after all that time and cost and effort, dammit, I want it to work correctly. I've tried to shift while, and after, rocking the truck back and forth to minimize engagement issues, but no dice. Any 242 surgeons care to advise me? (yes, it has correct fluid) Thanks!

I just found out that the (available) TJ inner shift boot fits and works great. $25.00 new. http://www.quadratec.com/products/52106_03.htm

Congratulations - nice MJ! And Welcome !!!

So closing this one out, I spent satyurday morning at the JY checking multiple vehicles. Turns out all 3 XJs's I checked had the cluster pin 11 wired for full time light, and also the 88 MJ had same. I ended up grabbing that wire for the terminal) and ran it independent of the bulkhead connector to the 4 pin connector over by the cannister where the T-case switch wires, along with the speed sensor wires, come into the engine compartment. a simple splice and I've got my full t ime light working. I still wonder whether 242 was ever offered for MJ, but at least I now know that the early ones were wired for the full time light.