flint54

Seems there's also the occasional request for fuel tank J-bolts, for rear speaker frames, for cargo lights (first thing I look for), for good tailgates, etc. I always check the rear axle in the unlikely event (haven't found one yet) there's a Dana 44. Rear window gaskets are popular pull items. Now, the other side of the coin, you can only store so much stuff before the garage spills over. Now I'm looking mostly just for upgrade parts. Headliners? I've passed up several because they're just too fragile to mess with.

Surprise, surprise, the axle swap is not quite as "plug and play" as I had assumed. Was puzzled why the rotors would not fit, until I measured the distance from hub face to knuckle face. On the 1992 D30 that distance is 3.25". On the 2001 D30 that distance is 3.00". Gotta go buy new rotors to replace my perfectly good rotors. Rats!

Opinions please: The thin dust shields directly behind the front calipers are: A) absolutely essential B) nice to have but not critical C) On or off, doesn't matter D) Useless E) The biggest waste of sheet metal there is, besides Hyundai and Kia. Why do I ask? Because I had a minor accident, and dropped my new (salvaged) D30 off the 4x4's it was sitting on. The shields are crumpled and no amount of hammering and pliering is going to get them right again. I really don't want to pull these knuckles for this reason. Thanks.

On my unbashed D30 the LCA mounts are mirror images of each other regarding the angle.

to fit between 4.0 HO and AX-15 on a 1992. Have not had any success at the local JYs. Thanks.

Mkbruin, Thanks for providing this lead. However, it still leaves me puzzled. The numbers on my OEM build sheet do not align with anything on your spreadsheet. Also, I'm confused by your "spring rate" column. I've never seen spring rate expressed as anything other than a deflection (lbs per inch of metric equivalent).

Sooo, no takers on this topic I guess. My front springs are original, so I figured I would grab another pair from the JY. Pulled the pair from the 2001 XJ that I got the D30 3.54 from, hoping they would act a bit younger. Laid them side by side with my original MJ springs and they're nearly 2 inches shorter. WTH?? Same wire diameter, same coil diameter, but totally different height. I don't get it. Truck sags on the drivers side, and rear springs are new. I don't really want to change the front height (it's right where I want it), and I don't really want stiffer springs than original. Any opinions on who's springs I should get?

So I'm tooling down the road, minding my own business, when I feel the truck start tugging to the left. Not drastic, but insistent, like a flat tire. Look out the window, tire is not flat. Jerk the wheel both ways, nothing feels loose. Starts pulling harder, so I pull over. Get out and there's smoke coming from the wheel well. Grab the extinguisher (everyone carries one - right?) just in case. Wheel is way too hot to touch. Jack up the front, loosen the lugs, and wait an hour before I can touch anything. The smoke was from the balljoint grease - that's how hot it was. Nothing obvious, except wheel, hub, caliper, and rotor hotter than hell. Cannot rotate the wheel. Pull it off. Cannot rotate the hub -even with a tire iron. Open the bleeder on the caliper and press a bit of fluid out. I can rotate the hub, with some effort. Pull off the caliper. The halves slide freely on the guide pins. Look at the knuckle where the pad lugs engage. Smooth and no "hangup" divots. I'm thinking something caused the caliper piston to stick - but why? Put it all back together and drove home without incident. Guess I gotta spring for new calipers, even though I'm gearing up for the (eventual) dual piston mod. Any other thoughts?

Have your dealer do a national search. As of a few months ago the grommets for the rollover check valves were still available. They call it a "vapor valve seal" and the PN is J536-0059. It is used on several Jeep models.

Buy the truck! Don't stop at $800 dollars. Make it new again, no, make it better than new! RE: "Real bike class has always resided with the Beemers - only. And certain Guzzis, and a few Ducati models,....." Add to my tag my two former two-wheel friends: 1974 Moto Guzzi Eldorado 850 1974 BMW R60/6 Very sad they're no longer in my garage!

:agree: Completely! I had exactly the same symptom. Track bar where it connects to the frame bracket. Bracket hole was warbled out due to a p***-poor installation by someone who got paid to do it right and did not. Could be bar, could be bracket, could be both. Either way, easy to figure out and easy to fix. When I first heard it, it was right after a pretty hard collision with the earth and I was convinced I had cracked my frame. My relief was immeasurable when I found out what it really was.

Yep, WJ (02 GC) is what I meant. The tubular ones with the oval front bushing. Real nice, and $5 each. Might go back for the uppers (yes I know about the flange trim required), just to have the matching pair they look so good!

Also check the track bar and mount. Have someone else sit in the truck and crank the wheel both ways vigorously while you feel each and every connection for freeplay. If your tires are more than a few years old they can have internal degradation in spite of the tread condition. IF tires are good, have them road force balanced for best result.

Sooo, I don't know how to segue from one topic to the next, which is why I've pasted here how the block drain topic morphed into current draw. My plan is to upgrade all the power cables to 1AWG, and the vendor suggests adding a new inline fuse to protect elements downstream of an alternator with greater than OEM capacity, in my case 136A. My observation of the FSM schematics for the PDC and for the charging system show that fuses #8 and #16 perform that function today. They are rated at 60 amps each, for a total limit of 120 amps. Being MAXI fuses, they are available in 10 amp increments up to 100 amps. My Scot genes suggest that I could simply increase those fuses to, say, 70 or 80 amp capacity and achieve the same protection as would be gained by the additional separate inline fuse for a fraction the cost. Don, what have I overlooked? Startup on the 10-blade fans can jump up to 18A. 14A-15A is the norm. They run with a 6A-8A draw. I'm used 12AWG wiring and fuse both my fans at 20A/ea. No problems ever. :cheers: _________________ -Don 91 Comanche LWB, AW4, Hesco 4.6L stroker, 4.09 D44 w. Trac-Loc, 3" lift, Power everything, Explorer disks, CHROME freak. ImageImageImage ROLL TIDE! Image Thanks Don, I was afraid they could pull nearly 20 amps. With two of those kicking on, plus headlights, and whatever else is running, I could be nearing the limit of my poor old OEM alternator. I think they're good for only, what, 65 amps total? Tom _________________ 1992 Comanche Eliminator, SWB, 4wd, 4.0L, AX-15, 2nd owner I think the biggest alternator available on the HOs was the HD 90A; most were 65A-75A. But since you have a 92, the Dodge/ZJ 136A NipponDenso alt below is a cheap and easy bolt-in swap. I did this swap awhile ago and it bolted right in w. no case grinding. Also upgraded my mains cables. It handles both fans, H4 Hella head lamps, A/C on, and full blower no problems. A good upgrade to do on the HOs. _________________ -Don 91 Comanche LWB, AW4, Hesco 4.6L stroker, 4.09 D44 w. Trac-Loc, 3" lift, Power everything, Explorer disks, CHROME freak. ImageImageImage ROLL TIDE! Image Good lead - thanks! I read somewhere that this alternator is externally regulated, via the PCM. Hopefully the amperage increase will pose no risk. Kelley's W.I.P. talks about adding an inline fuse - did you do that also? _________________ 1992 Comanche Eliminator, SWB, 4wd, 4.0L, AX-15, 2nd owner Yes, it's regulated by the ECU based on load demand and battery voltage sensing. Same way the 91-92 MJ HO alts are, and the V8 ZJs and Dodges the 134A alts came from. Yes, I did add the inline ANL fuse (150A if I recall) along w. a set of Kelly's mains cables. _________________ -Don 91 Comanche LWB, AW4, Hesco 4.6L stroker, 4.09 D44 w. Trac-Loc, 3" lift, Power everything, Explorer disks, CHROME freak. ImageImageImage ROLL TIDE! Image

My build sheet says the following for the front coils: FRT/SPG RT: "111" LT: "787" FRT SPRG WT RT "0710" LT "0854" From this info I figure that the design weights are different, with the port side being higher than starboard, given the driver and fuel tank, although the difference being only 144lbs doesn't make sense. The info also suggests that the two coils are different, either for height or for rate or possibly both. Anyone able to decipher this info? Thanks!

Thanks Pete, now I can get to work doing the swap. Was going to do the dual piston caliper upgrade first, but I think I'll get the axle in first. That way when I start undoing axle nuts and hub nuts I'll have something to react against. Also picked up a pair of ZJ LCA's. It was a great day at the JY, I cannot understand why my wife has no interest in coming there with me.

Picked up a 3.54 D30 from the JY yesterday from a 2001 XJ sport. Only after getting it home did I observe that it's a low pinion instead of the high pinion I currently have. Coupla questions; 1) Should I care? (I know it drives on the "other" side of the ring gear) 2) Any issues with driveline angle change? Truck is 90% on paved road, and offroad use is not severe. It's a lower mile unit in good shape, and the price was right ($80).

Truck is blue-green, tailgate was there but I didn't pay much attention to it. Truck is at LKQ on E. Colonial (hwy 50) near the 417 expressway. There's also a white short bed truck at the Pull&Pay down by the airport. Has a bed liner which I didn't lift.

Good lead - thanks! I read somewhere that this alternator is externally regulated, via the PCM. Hopefully the amperage increase will pose no risk. Kelley's W.I.P. talks about adding an inline fuse - did you do that also?

Are you sure you want them?? My truck has them, the PO siliconed them shut. I spent a great deal of time and aggravation disassembling the door to rebuild them, including the very expensive and very hard to install rubber seal, Plus rebuilding the little latch mechanism. The threaded stud can easily break off the lower channel, and the lower channel will easily rust. No matter how good you make them, they will probably whistle and leak.

Or this one: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/C ... est+Seller

Anyone ever think about how to change the setpoint of this silly light? I could just pull the bulb, but wouldn't mind if it came on at 3K instead of 2K.

Thanks Don, I was afraid they could pull nearly 20 amps. With two of those kicking on, plus headlights, and whatever else is running, I could be nearing the limit of my poor old OEM alternator. I think they're good for only, what, 65 amps total? Tom

Sawzall can be your best friend for this job. You've probably burnt up more in spent time that the value of a couple blades and a couple new bolts. Mine were frozen solid to the bushings. Whoever takes these out again some generations from now will thank me for greasing the new bolts liberally.

in Orlando LKQ, bed is in very good shape. Even the arches look good. No idea what they want for it. Just an FYI to the list. Even still has taillights, but they're in poor shape.