flint54

RE: Seriously, if you want to sell it - let me know. I'll keep that in mind. Truck will be headed to a much drier climate next year, and maybe by then I will have decided whether to pull the "drill" trigger or not. In the mean time it sits in the ever-growing pile of parts that vexes my bride. A little effort to strip the old peeling paint and it will be like new.

I don't have a scanner or I would send you the FSM diagram. The cargo light has a single pink wire, 16 or 18 GA, that runs from the light to the LH pillar harness then down to floor then forward and up to the dash switch. Here's what the light looks like:

Check track arm ball and bracket at LH frame. Look for looseness, and out of round bore.

I'm going to offer you just one meager opinion, starting with a question: What are your plans for the truck? If all you intend is for casual road use, I suggest you seek out a tight, used motor, with under 100k miles if possible, and just transplant. That will likely be your "least cost" option. Now then, if you're interested in rebuilding yourself, and have the time, the tools, the talent, and the budget, you may prefer that option. BUT, fair warning, you mentioned increasing the bore, and you could be on the cusp of the very slippery slope of a modified engine. You could spend many thousands of dollars, and then discover that more power requires modifying any number of other parts of the truck. Be careful!! This is highly addictive! Your wife, children, and possibly even your dog, could abandon you due to your total focus on your truck alone. You will wind up poor, family-less, and have only an awesome truck to show for it. Not a bad trade - right? You have been warned. AND, welcome to the group. You didn't mention what year and configuration truck you're buying, besides 4.0. Details please. Also, if the truck was in a flood, I have more concerns than just the motor, and suggest you may be better off to keep shopping, unless that truck is really, really cheap -like almost free.

Reference the attached picture: I think what you're referring to is the assembly of items 7, 8, 9, and 11. The rubber insulator is available from Quadratec (http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0563.htm) for $4 bucks, but it is held in place by a riveted bracket (5300-0104). The part number is 5300-0101. Alternately you might be able to harvest a reasonably good replacement assembly from the JY.

Shrouds are tight to radiator, well as tight as the tab slots permitted. I have the 136amp alternator, and it was fun shaving the aluminum bracket to make it fit. I have Kelley's mains cables. I have not yet (but plan to) done the H4 upgrade. I have the OEM (export) resonator in place of the cataclysmic perverter. I've got the CSF three row radiator and the Hesco scroll WP. Everything is clean, tight, and shipshape. I bow to the eight slot altar every morning. I run 215 deg, with both fans spinning full, and no real load on the motor, other than the load of those fans. 10 degrees higher than before the fan mod. Was hoping to go the other way. Does anyone make a net I can use to hang blocks of dry ice in front of the radiator? I'm hopeful that once we get to Montana this will all be just a memory. And, before anyone suggests it, I just cannot bring myself to butcher the hood to add louvers. That's almost as bad as chrome. ;)

Yep. Bought three of them (two plus a spare). All three run great. Any of the three may pop 20 amp fuse, but not all the time. I decided I never want a harness melt-down so I upped the wire to 10 gauge and the fuse to 30 amps. No problems yet. The second fan runs from the Spal controller, also fused at 30 amps. My guess (I'm no electrician) is that the undersize wire may have been a contributor. I also got rid of the long 14 gauge ground line and grounded to chassis right next to the fan. For reasons I may never understand, truck runs 10 degrees hotter now. With both fans running. Measured at the T-stat housing with Fluke 62 IR gun.

Scored a Lund sun visor off an 87 long bed at the JY today. Looks as if it had been installed for many years, very faded and peeled. Now I'm debating, do I really want to drill all those holes into the cab to mount it? I like the look, but that's a drastic mod and irreversible. Comments?

Thanks for the lead! Those folks have just about every connector known to man. Spent a long time looking, found several that were close, and then the light bulb came on. Went to the JY, opened a PDC and harvested the terminals needed. Them I soldered them to my heavier wire and reinserted them into their respective sockets. All is well, no more worry about wire-melting fan current.

Sounds like you're well on your way to running. Let us know how the new starter works out.

I'm measuring angle with a digital inclinometer on the round flat spots where the tubes abut the pumpkin. Get 86.1 degrees. Then, using the conversion table for LP diff, get 8 degrees. I think I should add shim to lower the angle, which would lengthen the LCA reach and rotate the diff forward, and reduce the lean of the caster line. Since it steers very smoothly and tracks straight, I'm inclined to leave it alone rather than adjust. My lift is only ~2 inches.

Well, I've bitten off a real challenge. I decided my electric fan (the 10 blade OEM from 97+ XJ) draws too much current for the original 14 gauge wire. This is based on popping the 20 amp fuse. I've pulled a 10 guage wire through the harness from fan to PDC (and boy was that fun!). Now I need to find some new PDC spade sockets to crimp onto the wire. I need two sockets for the relay and one for the fuse. The relay socket is marked "781" and "A-322", while the fuse socket is marked "18 SX37". They're tiny. They're not really reuseable. Getting the PDC out and apart wasn't too bad. I suspect finding those new sockets will be a challenge. Any leads will be much appreciated! Shown is an image of the wire with sockets between fuse and relay from underside of the PDC.

Probably not. Can you describe it? Are there holes? Can you poke your finger through it? Is the inside full of flakes? What can you see? How much of the frame do you think is affected? The only thing that comes to mind is to spray chemicals to slow down the deterioration. Suggest you rig up the ability to spray through a tube, and then see how far in you can insert the tube. The first item I would spray is Ospho, to convert the oxide surface to phosphate. Then, there's a product we have had good success with on aircraft called Dinitrol AV-30. It's a CPC (corrosion preventive compound) with good wicking ability. These two actions will slow down the harm, but will not fix it. BTW, the AV-30 can be sprayed with a wand from a small pressure pot.

Thanks for the replies! Experimenter that I am, I've done the check with the axle lifted only enough to barely clear the tires from the floor and I've got it dialed to within 1/16" toe in. Tomorrow I will check it with full weight on wheels to see if and how much it changes. Will report back my findings. Weight on wheels makes best sense since that's how it's operated. Now then, using the angle table so prevalent, I measure 8 degrees caster. There are no driveability issues, and I'm inclined to do nothing rather than shim it back to the upper spec limit (LP D30) of 7 degrees. Am I missing anything?

So, let's begin with a couple basics: 1) measure the battery voltage to confirm a good battery (s/b >12v) 2) remove and clean the battery terminals and the connectors 3) check the connection where neg battery cable goes to fender 4) check the connection where pos battery cable goes to starter 5) verify the motor will turn by wrench (not locked up) Is this an auto or manual trans? 6) if the first 5 steps check out good, let's try something risky. Make sure truck is in neutral (man) or park (auto), E-brake on and key off. Briefly jumper between the large and small terminals at the starter and see if the motor cranks. The goal here isn't to start the motor, just test the starter/solenoid. If it cranks, you have a bad solenoid which is easily replaced. Try all this and let's see what you find. BTW, welcome to the group and........cute motor!

So, I'm going to check my toe-in using the "bungee cord with bar" method I saw around here somewhere (measuring and comparing side to side distances between front of tire and back of tire), and I'm now wondering if this should best be done with weight on wheels or weight off wheels? The wheel center is high enough that the bars are unaffected by bulge. Also hampered because I don't have a straight shot at the rear of tires - LCA's block that path. I may have to plumb (or framing square) down to the floor and measure there. Comments?

Nice score, but oh man, if you're going that deep the external slave is only one more layer. Your heirs will thank you. That's my winter project, soon as hunt season closes.

RE: "There is no gasket." So, the newer XJ's rubber perimeter is only a trim and not a seal? If that's the case, can I just pull off my old pitted and dented metal trim and install that rubber trim, or does the glass still need to come out? I would be delighted to be able to just replace metal with rubber trim and not disturb the glass!

Since you've done the door seals (did you upgrade to the better GC seal?), and assuming door fits snugly, the next place I suggest to consider is the windshield perimeter, particularly the lower corner. You didn't say whether this leak appears even if the truck is just parked, so I'm assuming that's the case. Another place to evaluate is behind the wheel well liner (take it off) where water channels from the cowl area. Next place to consider are the various penetrations through the firewall but I think those are less likely to be culprits. Alternatively, you could just remove the carpet and make some drain holes? Where is FL are you? I'm in FL and still wishing for rain!

After you've confirmed no leaks: This is how I do it alone, but it's much easier with help. Locate the bleed nipple on line coming out of the bell housing. You will need two box wrenches, one for the nipple and one for its base. See if the nipple can be loosened. Sometimes they're easy and sometimes not. Get a piece of (preferably clear) tubing that fits tightly on the nipple. Insert the free end of the tube into a jar containing brake fluid, with the end of the tube submerged. Open the nipple perhaps a half turn or less. Position yourself so you can work the pedal and also see the jar. Work the pedal while observing the jar. If you have air in the line you will see bubbles flowing into the jar. If air is your problem you will continue to work the pedal until no more bubbles then close the nipple. Keep an eye on the CMC reservoir to make sure you don't pump out all the fluid. If bleeding doesn't restore a firm pedal I think your CMC is toast.

I contacted the Tonno-Pro folks today, after presuming the model for us is 42-304, to ask about dimensions. They said that the outside dimensions are: MEASUREMENTS ARE FROM EDGE TO EDGE 60" WIDE 75" LONG *UNDERSIDE PARAMETER SEAL SITS 1.5" IN FROM EDGE So, I measured the inside of my bed from flange to flange and discovered something that really surprises me. The front is wider than the back by a full inch. I checked it multiple times to be certain. Anyone else find this??? Front (flange face to flange face) = 55 1/2" and rear = 54 1/2".! WTH?!?

Thanks - looks like a winner!

What comes to mind, if you have not lost any fluid, is either a faulty seal in the master cylinder that is allowing the piston to travel without pushing any fluid into the line, or air in the system. Even though the fluid level seems to be normal, I suggest still inspecting everywhere for fluid leak and also that you bleed the system. Like brakes, it doesn't take much air to make a pedal go soft. Awaiting your results.

That cover looks very good! Can you please share an image or two showing just how it connects? Does it connect to the sides only, or does it also connect to the front edge and the tailgate? Or can the tailgate be operated with the cover in place? Thanks!

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