SBpunk

Yeah sort of. First time on the mountain in Hawaii. Hadn't rained in a long time up there and the rock gave up on me. Had trouble winching it out and tried to strong arm it off the sidewall. Didn't work well but managed to finish the trail and get home. Was probably the most fun I've ever had.

Referring to 35+ish tires. Even on 31's you put the steering wheel too hard the gear box is going to pop. Found out the hard way hahahaha

Quicker ration and same size piston as XJ/MJ models but that will backfire when you try to push larger tires against rocks or deep mud. Daily driver its awesome though.

Enough to be annoying in a larger parking lot. Even backing up it was a pain. If you have the skill you can modify it but I don't and not something I'd risk learning on.

took me about 30 minutes. I was not moving fast. I put both passenger tires on oil change ramps because I could not remember how much fuel was in there. I used a hammer and a screwdriver. Because the strainer and float are pointing in the opposite direction it seemed to take a while to set it in a place to seal. It felt like I was hitting a ledge or something but, pretty easy repair. Might need some fuel line since these don't have the 90* fittings. Gotcha. I've pulled the sending unit out but I wasn't sure from the posts if there was a way to separate the pump from the sending unit. I'll have to pick up some tubing to see if I can get it to work.

I'm doing mine now with the dark forest green camo spray paint and plastic primer. Biggest issue so far is painting the center console cushion on the 98+ XJ console. Ended up putting on a couple light coats and putting it in the oven for a few hours. Turned out pretty good. Not sure how long it'll last but I like the color and couldn't find it in any other spray paints.

You'll lose a chunk of your turning radius unless you break open the Durango box and modify it

So after reading through this what I'm getting is this is just a straight plug and play for HO comanches and renix wires just need to be swapped? My gauge only tells me the important stuff now (when I'm almost empty) but if this is just a straight swap I'll throw down the money. I have a spare hanging out on a shelf but not sure if its working either. Rather put the work in for something guaranteed. How much of a pain is it to swap out the pumps?

Exactly. That's new metric tons and axle shafts

I'm trying to stay away from SYE / Hack and tap unless I decide to lift it more than 3 or 4 inches. LWB its not really necessary or worth the cost to me. Then again I did just drop 200+ into a transfer case because I was too impatient to get a 50$ drive shaft job done three days later....

Just a little update. Got the 242 slip yoke in the mail but still had too much play from the tail shaft being cut. Now I'm just waiting on the shaft (hahaha) and chain to come in. Managed to get the case broken down and the stupid oil slinger was a pain. Hoping I didn't crack the tail cone but wouldn't be surprised at this point.

There might be but I've just never had an issue with slip yoke. They're simple to fix and cheap. I'll have the drive shaft shortened if I have to which is what I should've done in the first place. At least now I know and I get to learn how to break down a transfer case. Sucks that I can't drive it for awhile again but still a cool thing to know.

There's nothing wrong with slip yoke. 4 8mm bolts and I can remove the rear DS and its never gave me any issues until I tried to put a different transferase in. Comanche long bed has plenty of drive shaft to lift it however high. Forgot to add about the cost of getting either a new driveshaft or having the old one modified.

Definitely don't want to install an SYE. Worse case I'll just crack open the case and replace the main shaft. Hopefully it won't come to that but who knows.

The case I have is from a 96+ with a sealed output. Ends up being about 2 inches too long on the output and bottoms out in the yoke. I picked up a new yoke Crown Automotive #4882714 for it. I'm hoping that swapping out the yoke will fix the problem and I won't have to break down the transfer case. Either way I needed a new yoke. Anyone know if its possible to run a shorter output shaft on a slip yoke or if I'm shafted and have to just crack it open and replace it?

Yeah don't do that hahaha I hadnt thought of the slip yoke difference between the two. I have a new main shaft, chain and main shaft seal in the mail. It was more of an impatience thing. I've been working on the swap all weekend and the drive shaft was the last thing and it was about 2 inches too long. Lesson learned. I'm going to pick up a new slip yoke off ebay too if I can find the part number for the 242. I'm hoping the U-Joints were the same in the shafts.

So have some decent play in the rear drive shaft where it meets the tail shaft. So time to start researching if I can swap some parts around from the WJ one that I bought on accident. Hoping I can just swap the rear tail piece with the speedo gear. If not I'll be pulling them both apart and putting the output shaft from the WJ one into the MJ

1992 Comanche 4.0 AX15 I swapped in a 242 from a 1996+ and realized the output shaft/rear drive shaft was insanely long. Ended up cutting down the output shaft and still wouldnt fit. Cut off about 2 inch off the slip yoke on the drive shaft and everything fit just fine. I took her out for a test drive and noticed at lower speeds I'm getting a noise when giving it gas that almost sounds like something is rolling around in the truck bed but coming from under my feet. Nothing in the bed by the way. Also when I was turning I would get a strange vibe, not like a death wobble, randomly. I'm thinking the slip yoke either shouldnt have been cut, the input shaft is messed up (med on case short on trans) or both.

Looking for a modified Durango box with the snap ring removed and cap grinded. Thanks

I've gotten it figured out for the most part. The part I circled is measuring up to be .750. A little confused because the case is showing as a March 1996 production date but everything I've read show they stopped making small/long combos in 1995ish timeframe.

Need some help. Have a 92 w/ AX15 and Np231 (short input) Want to install 1996+ NP242 from AW4 (medium shaft) is it possible to just bolt up or do I need to track down a short input for the 242? Just asking because finding a new cut short shaft is expensive since they didn't make them stock.

*&^%I didn't even think about that. Oh well looks like its going in my WJ.

So just picked up a WJ NP242 and had a couple questions Is the shift gate different from the 231? Just want to double check that the medium input shaft will still work without issue? Any other things I should be concerned with? I know the linkage needs to be adjusted.

It looked like they swapped back to stock type rubber joints and added adjustable options on the control arms. Thought I read somewhere they used to only come with the front two shocks. Might be wrong but either way I'm not going to risk it. Looks like I'm saving up for TnT or RC front end

Yep if Rusty's comes out as crap still I'll just grab some 4.5 hell creek and piece together the front. Was just hoping they'd improved on quality