SBpunk

I took a chalk to the tire I was trying to pull back and had a ratchet strap going to my other vehicle. Probably not the "by the book" way but its worked every time

This is awesome to hear. Might just store my R12 cans and use this for awhile. Thanks for getting back to me over PM and posting up the results!

I can't remember to be honest. The previous owner had some 4 point spark plugs in the block. I just pulled them and tossed them without looking. I'll pull the newer ones and check them out. They've been running for about 1k miles or so. Should be able to tell if they're getting burnt up or too wet.

I was just guessing (once again no expert) that the pressure wouldn't hold. I'll post up the pic of what he wrote up in a second. I'm throwing in new stock fuel injectors this weekend and pulling the cowl intake snorkel to see if it helps at all with the power/idle. I'll take a NOD? tester to the fuel injector plugs as well to make sure I'm getting a good signal to all of them. The fuel injectors are pretty much my last hope before I start looking into rebuilding or a new motor. I'll start with getting the head rebuilt and go from there.

It was done at a shop. They wrote the results on the fan shroud. They charged me for a leak down test but it looked like a regular compresson test.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking has to happen. Was hoping someone would say "Hey just sounds like your head is (insert some type of head issue here). Get it rebuilt and you should be good to go" buuuuuuut I sort of knew with all the signs.

That wouldn't cause the low compression though. I have new stock injectors that have been cleaned and tested going in. My RMS has been changed around 4 times now and still leaking so wondering if its even worth attempting again if I'm going to need to pull the block.

Guessing my piston rings are done for and probably worse. 1 @ 130 2 @ 150 3 @ 145 4 @ 145 drops to 90 5 @ 145 6 @ 150 drops to 130 Symptoms are shaky idle, strong fuel smell in the oil, hard start on occasion I've swapped out spark plugs, 4 point fuel injectors (think this might have caused it actually), rotor, cap, wires, air filter, O2 sensor, exhaust manifold back, new throttle body, fuel filter and a few other things I'm probably missing. Has never over heated since I've had it. Any opinions before I start to pull of the head and cry?

Well just to follow up with my issue. Come to find out the noise I was getting from the transfer case wasn't from the transfer case. One of the fuel line supports snapped and was grinding against my driveshaft. Luckily I caught it in time. Other than that the thing has been working perfectly. I have no carpet or center console in at the moment so there is some noise coming from the case but nothing I didn't expect going from a short to medium input shaft. Once everything is put back together I won't even be able to hear it. Did tons of research and 80% (made up guesstimation) of it came back saying a medium input can work for either a short or long but short can't work for long vice versa.

I never thought about the baby powder thing. I really thought it was a windshield seal but def not the case now. I think the drain might be blocked since it only does it on heavy rain. Going to take the hose out and pour some water in it hahah

Found this http://jeepair.com/o-ring-kits/cherokee-o-ring-kit.htmlfor the rings http://jeepair.com/accumulator-driers/cherokee-comanche-filter-drier-435.htmlfor the dryer Jeep air seems like a legit company. Anything else I should pick up?

So if I can find some neoprene rings for this system I should be good? I would just convert but I don't see the need if the R12 is free and already available. Anyone know a good source for the rings and dryer? Going to google it but hey can't hurt to ask.

Thanks you're awesome. Time to start hunting down parts.

Is the dryer and receiver the same for r12 and r134? Same with the o rings? Sorry learning as I go and most the stuff I find is people converting.

So I found (no bs) 9 cans or so of R12. My compressor in my Jeep is shot. Want to keep the R12 system but was curious what all I need and if its possible to test the system for leaks when I get a new compressor installed before dropping in the coolant? Hoping to find someone local that knows how to charge the system so I don't end up wasting any. Also found some "Oil Charge" guessing thats for the compressor.

My doors are good. I can see the tiny streams coming down in a couple spots on the passenger side firewall and one on the driver side. It rained again today but no water on the floors. I might just take out the dash and see if I can hunt it down. Its about 1/3 as bad on the driver side so might be over flow.

Thanks. Just moved into a new house so once everything is in place I'll start hunting down stuff.

Sweet Ill check that out when it stops raining here. I have a cowl intake over there and I'm starting to worry I messed something up

Had a new windshield put in to try and fix it but there is a ton of water on my floor pans after it rained today. Was hoping to put in carpet but I need to hunt down this leak. Its coming from behind the dash on both sides. Any ideas what to look for next. The jeep is point nose down in the driveway if that helps at all.

Oil pan was from Rock Auto can't remember been awhile. Yes on the FelPro, Lip facing the front of the engine. Used the horn and dawn dish soap to get the top seal in. Used some UV dye to make sure nothing else was leaking. Its just that spot behind the pan on/in the inspection plate. I'll look into the sealer. Someone offered to check it out for 350ish but I figure for that price I'd try one more time. Just bought a house so every penny counts right now.

I picked up a brand new oil pan so hopefully not. Someone said it might be parts are so worn down there it can't get a seal. It only has 160k miles and the previous owner (only other owner) just used it for a farm truck. Yep sure did. Goes in between right? Kidding but yup its there. Made that mistake awhile back thinking it wasnt needed. It's almost to the point where I'm ready to pay someone to check it out. One of the guys in the local club here thinks he can help for a decent price. Most people here think you have to drop the trans to change it so the mechanics don't really inspire confidence.

Dropped some dye in it and used a UV light definitely coming from motor oil and looks like the stupid rear main seal again. No oil coming from the distributor, oil filter adapter or around the oil pan. Its got splatter on the front of the trans inspection plate and dripping down on the bottom bolt. Oil pan bolt is clean same with behind the block where the valve cover would leak down.

Oh man I didn't even think of those.... dammit I had the perfect chance to swap them out when I put new plugs, wires and cap on

I'll give it a shot. Just put fresh fluids into the transmission. Not sure about the timing cover haven't messed with it since I didn't want to pull the front clip and radiator off. Have a habit of replacing parts I didn't plan on replacing just because something was easy to get to while I was doing something else. I'll pull that plate off and see what I can find out.

So I've replaced the rear main seal 3 times, oil filter o rings and valve cover gasket. The oil is dripping from between the transmission dust plate right behind the oil pan. If it was a slower leak it wouldn't be a big deal but after about an hour it leaves a circle the size of the cardboard piece on duct tape. Both the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket are Fel Pro blue rubber. The rear main seal has been fel pro 2 piece with the little cut out facing the right way. Pre oiled and RTV'd. The old gasket on everything was scraped off carefully and everything is torqued to spec in the cross pattern order. Anyone have any other ideas what could be leaking? I'm going to try using dye again but last time it just showed everything was dry except the spot I could see already.