redwolf624

ok, i'll run into the adv tomorrow when i get done with what i gotta do in that area, i know the manager there and he has had nothin but fords and GMs so he'll know for sure, i'm thinkin it should be the same for all 2.8 V6s but yet again what did everyone keep the same with em other than the shape, they all added their own tweak, Redwolf

tried, the advance i normally go to had a stupid person answear the phone and didn't understand the question and napa was closed, tomorrow i gotta go out by a adv so i might swing into there and ask em, Redwolf

I corrected my original posts as the difference is two teeth. Since the speedometer gears are in the neighborhood of 30 teeth, one tooth more or less makes about a 3% difference. If (I'm assuming at high speed) you're off about 5mph with the 225 tires, then you have a speedometer gear for 205 tires. I run 235 on a truck that had originally 205 and when the speedometer reads 70 I'm actuallly going 75. Besides changing the speedometer gear (about $60 for the gear, not too difficult to install) there is no calibration possible for the speedometer. There should be a tag bolted to the diff cover with the ratio stamped in it. Even if the tag is still there it is probably not readable anymore because of 27 years of rust. Alternative way is to shift the transmission into neutral, jack up one rear tire and rotate it by hand 2 turns. If the drive shaft goes around three and a half turns you have 3.55 gears, three and three quarter turns is 3.73 and a bit over four is 4.10. My guess is that you have 4.10 gears, but Eagle seems to think 3.73 is more likely. i just jacked up the rear end and did the poor mans gear ratio test as i like to call it :P and yall are both wrong, i have 3.55 UNLESS i'm countin wrong, next time i might mark the drive shaft with a sharpie cause i was usin a zip tie also, if the speed you're turnin the tire is fast or slow does that make a difference? Redwolf

i got to thinkin today which never ends well, i realized that i gapped my spark plugs for an 86 jeep comanche (bein that that's what i have) instead of a 93 GMC sonoma which is what my engine came out of, they're both 2.8 V6s but are the spark plug gap different? i'm just tryin to get every little thing right on my truck, and i was thinkin that maybe if i have the plugs gapped for a 93 sonoma my MJ will run a little more smoother :D always worth askin on here, Redwolf

i was wonderin the same thing, all the calibration shops around my area want too much and i wanna find a way to do it myself other than buyin a new drive gear, is there a way i could set it myself since i'm runnin 225/75/R15 and that's the highest "stock" tires on my MJ? Redwolf

That tire size change is inconsequential and will work just fine. You are only expanding the size a quarter inch in any direction. Whether the 2.8 can turn them is another matter.... :crossfingers: :banana: it should turn em it a 2.5 can, Redwolf

finally got around to findin the part number on my transmission, tried searchin it but found nothin, i checked all parts stores and rock auto and got nothin, maybe yall will have luck, the part number on the bottom of the tranny is 0908226 Redwolf

i got it fixed, when me and my dad bled the clutch we never topped off the master cylinder so i drew air into the system like and idiot, Redwolf

ok, i'll have to get em a try some time, right now i plan on takin my seat out and seein if theres a way i can tie the seat cover to anything which i'm really doubtin but it's worth a shot since my dad did it with his bucket seats, but anything is an option now, Redwolf

that's not a bad idea there, i've seen em advertised on tv once before but never believed it, how well do they work? Redwolf

i bought a bench seat cover from walmart a little while after i finally got my MJ up and runnin i was doin good with keepin it on the seat untill a couple months ago, now it is a project to keep it on the seat, i tried the little hooks that come with seat covers and found out they broke from me slidin into my MJ, so the big question of the day is, where do ya anchor your seat cover or how have ya modified it to get it to stay achors and tight onto the seat?

got the clutch workin again :D what happen what when me and my dad bled the clutch last time we never topped the master cylinder back off with fluid so it drew air in the system when i pressed down of the clutch pedal so air was all through the clutch cylinder lines but it's all good, better than it was before and i have a comanche again :D Redwolf

that what i plan on tryin first, i just find it odd that before i got the plastic pivot from 4wheelparts i bled the clutch and now i gotta bleed it again, could it be due to stayin off the tranny for so long? Redwolf

what do ya mean by giant aluminum space, the spacer that goes between the slave cyl and the tranny? and yes the slave cyl has been bled correctly, me and my dad followed the haynes manual exactly, i started another thread containin the tranny problem, "tranny not shiftin" because i tighted the bottom bolt that my dad forgot and we had movment but very little, http://comancheclub.com/topic/39779-tranny-not-shiftin/ Redwolf

update: when i put the truck in gear when the engine is off if i go to start it while pressin in the clutch and it lunched forward, the only gear it'll attemp to go in is reverse and if i do i get a loud CA-PUNK, if i go into reverse slowly it grinds then i hear that noise once i'm in reverse, any ideas what's wrong? Redwolf

me and my dad hooked everything up yesterday after finally gettin the plastic peice to go on the end of the clutch slave sylinder rod, as far as we know everything is right, i charged the battery up all the way again last and i went to start my truck today, it starts but i can not put my truck in any gear, the clutch peddle is able to be depressed and it comes back up just fine but i can't shift at all but when the truck is off i can press in the clutch peddle and shift, could the slave cylinder need to bleeded again or could somethin came off inside the tranny like the fork the throwout bearin sits on? Redwolf

Ok i got the plastic tips in the mail that I ordered and my dad installed one on the rod that goes from the slave cylinder to the bar that holds the clutch throwout bearing, we put the slave cylinder in makin sure the plastic piece lined up with the bar where its supposed to, now when i press the clutch in the rod doesn't look like it moves at all and the clutch pedal has almost no resitance at all, is something else borken under there? Redwolf

I think we all agree on that point, so how about you start? You have several corrections you can already make, then we can hash out the finer details as an ongoing project. I suggest you go to your first post, make the corrections, then let's see where we stand. :popcorn: agreed, maybe eventually when it's all currect it could be a pinned topic :dunno: Redwolf

so the simple way of checkin is with a magnet, if it sticks it's an AX5? Redwolf

Your transmission is most likely an AX-5. The T5 was used as a alternate standard mostly in '84 and '85, when there was no Comanche, only the Cherokee. I have never heard of anyone having a T5 in a Comanche. well tomorrow i'm gonna be under my MJ puttin the clutch slave cylinder back in now that i got the plastic pivot for it, i look for a part number, i could search that number at any autopart store site right? Redwolf

yeah, the dana 35 aint that great, my dad's got one in his wrangler, he's waitin for it to break :yes: as for me, its lookin like i got a T5 after readin the comanche specs topic sayin that AX5 was used in 87 and up, Redwolf The ax5 was most definately used in 86. because it was behind the 2.5 every year of production. And it was the standard 5spd behind the 2.8 and the 2.1TD. And again, despite what haines says, the t4 and 5 being used in mj's and xj's is only rumor IRL ok, well if i could get the part number off my tranny would that be able to sell me what tranny i have weather it's a AX5 or T5? Redwolf

yeah, the dana 35 aint that great, my dad's got one in his wrangler, he's waitin for it to break :yes: as for me, its lookin like i got a T5 after readin the comanche specs topic sayin that AX5 was used in 87 and up, Redwolf

nice site, even has the plastic pivot for the end of the rod that goes in the clutch slave cylinder :thumbsup: Redwolf

all great info, i do believe in 86 they did use speedo cables cause i have one under my seat goin straight to my tranny, this may not all my currect or accurate but lets try to get it as close as we can and maybe repost this when we get it all right :thumbsup: :idea: :D Redwolf

I can give some simple advice that will give you some answers. 1) ax4 or ax5........simple answer....is there a 5th gear.....if not ax4 if so go to 2) 2) Now we know it is a 5 speed....2 were available.....lay under the truck and have a look at the tranny.....does it have a thick plate(about 3/4") that seems to separate the front of the trans from the rear? Google a picture of an AX5 or AX15 and you will see the plate I mean. If yes....it is an AX....if no it could (and again I say could) be a BA. Now to the rear end......A picture here would be helpful......Look on the bolts that hold the rear end cover on.....is there a tag on one of them? Now some people would tell you to jack it and rotate the tire and count the drive-shaft revolutions....I would go with the 2 birds with one stone method.......lets do some investigating and maintenance at the same time. Go down to your favorite auto parts store and get 2 quarts (liters) of gear oil (75w 90 ??) and a tube of RV silicone At home (jack it and put on stands if you don't have the clearance) put a pan under the diff....loosen the bolts pry the pan a bit at the bottom till the fluid runs out then remove the pan. Now (with a tire or the drive shaft rotate the diff....there will be a number stamped on it write down all you see. Clean the diff cover (now would be the time to add some paint if you want) apply silicon and reinstall.....let sit for a bit the add your fluid until it reaches the add hole. Ok now with the numbers.....either post them or just do simple math.....it will not be stamped .....3:73 or 4.10 it will have the numbers of the crown and pinion teeth stamped in....simple division divide the larger by the smaller and that will give your ratio. that's nice to know, i'll deffently have to give that way a try when i have money to blow cause chances are somethin is gonna break when i go to do that, every time i go to inspect somethin fully (takin it apart/off and makin sure it still works) that i have not already replaced and is still stock from 86 it breaks, chances are the diff cover/bolts will break with me doin this, but one day i'll try that, Redwolf