redwolf624

ok so i'm a little confused and could use some help with this, i know for the nylon strap it'd be good to have 2" or bigger but what bought chains and shackles, i'm thinkin 1 1/2" chain and a 1" shackle, tryin to put together my own recovery system, but it's kinda hard since i've never been stuck and don't know what sizes to get stuff in, i know me personally want chains and shackles and tow hooks but i just don't know what a good size would be for it, also didn't know where to put this, sounded like a tech question to me :) Redwolf

ok, well after the grounds dry again i'll clean it off, i'm parked under a tree and it's the middle of a thunderstorm so, longer to find WD-40 or somethin like it :) Redwolf

meet and greet in virginia beach or chesapeake? tryin to get a meet and greet goin again, it's been a while since i've seen some runnin MJs other than my own :( anyone up for a meet and greet? Redwolf

we are talkin bout that little rectangle tag on the diff cover right above my mud line right? Redwolf

that is just the part number for the diff cover, nothing to do with gear ratio. now that you've posted a picture ... go look at your axle again. See that little metal flap on the upper lefthand bolt? spray that with WD40 and get yer fingers dirty, rub it in and clear the rust and grime ... some numbers and letters will appear. Post those and we can tell you the gear ratio. i'll get on that tomorrow, gotta find the WD40 first that is just the part number for the diff cover, nothing to do with gear ratio. now that you've posted a picture ... go look at your axle again. Now that you mention that little flap -- notice that it has two holes in it. From the factory, both holes had a cover bolt through them. Someone has had the cover off your differential at least once. It's probably a small miracle that they bothered to put the tag back at all. your eyes must be really good, i don't see the 2 holes in the tag unless i don't know what i'm lookin for, Redwolf

swung into advance today and priced gear oil, they only have 85w-140 where the book calls for 80w-140, would the 85w do the old gears in the dana 35 more good than the 80w and what's the difference between the two? Redwolf

those are nice, very clean and not that bad for a price either, still way cheaper than ebay Those Tubines are CLEAN but ouch to the price. The 10-hole wheels with faux-studs are my favorite. :) I had a set with bad finish that I used as winter wheels before I picked up some powdercoated Gamblers for winter duty. 10 hole as in the eliminator rims right? You need ONE turbine rim? I have one I'll send you if you pay the shipping. It came on one of the XJs or MJs I picked up, and had been painted, and then painted again over the paint. As an experiment, I had a guy remove the paint using baking soda blasting. The aluminum is now pristine, but slightly "frosty." What it needs to look near perfect is a bit of time with some VERY FINE emery cloth or wet/dry sandpaper, polishing the faces of the spokes and the outer flat at the wheel weight rim. Hit me with a PM if you're interested. lookin new aint an issue, i got one that's so badly covered in break dust that it looks rusted, but i'll shoot ya a PM about it later today when things setle down, i'm bout to head out for the junkyard again with my dad for a power steerin gear box, Redwolf

still lookin for my last turbine rim, got 235/75/R15s put on my MJ saturday and found out my spare is slightly warped, enough to notice on the balance machine, but not bad enough to notice on the roads, i've checked ebay but aint got the hundreds, any place that could have em cheap other than the junkyards cause i've keeped em too, Redwolf

got to thinkin bout the hitch more, i was lookin at some online, the wrangler and comanche trailer hitch look simalar, would that fit or no, looks like it'd mount the same as the MJ hitches, Redwolf

yeah i saw what ya were talkin bout today when i went out to a fellow jeeper place today, not gonna be easy at all didn't think of lookin on here, i might just build one, i got all the messurements and i know what to use for the hitch, the hardest part is gonna be gettin that reciever part onto it, that's gonna be the fun part, Redwolf

No ... unless you plan on modifying the hitch extensively. The Cherokee hitch mounts to the underside of the "frame" rails, using strips with the nuts welded to them that get inserted into the frame. The MJ hitch mounts to the sides of the frame rails, using the same mounting holes and bolts as the bumper brackets. so all i've have to do is extend the hitch so it'll reash the sides of the frame right? Redwolf

last thread i checked on trailer hitches and still haven't seen my answear, can a trailer hitch off a 90s cherokee mount up to an 86 MJ? i found a nice hitch out at the junkyard yesterday and was wonderin if it'd fit, it's either off a 90 cherokee or a 97 cherokee can't remember Redwolf

thank's for the links on the dana 35. and i know how to apply RTV, it's all inside my engine where gaskets don't go, i even put a thin coat around where a gasket does go just as an extra gasket so to speak, Redwolf

ok well i know i got a open rear end cause i jacked one rear wheel off the ground and could spin it, but bein that it is open and i do have the trailer wirin should i add gear oil as if it was a limited slip like in the manual or just because it has the trailer wirin does that not mean it has the trailer package Redwolf any vehicle, up to and including a toyota prius, can have a trailer wiring harness. They are extremely simple to add on, and seeing as how you don't have an amc 20, the heavy duty axle used with the towing package, its a very safe assumption that you don't have a trailer package. Again, like the guy above me said, open up your diff, you'll know for sure, then borrow someones car to go to autozone and buy some gear oil. Simple as that, and it'll be done in an hour. If you plan to tow a trailer, then use the heavier gear lube indicated for the purpose. If you don't plan to tow, there's no need. However, it never hurts to use the heavier-duty stuff. ok, that is all i needed to know bout the gear oil yeah i do realize all this time i could have done that but like i said before i am new to the auto part world! i would like to know everything bout what i'm doin before i do it, everything i'm lookin for, Redwolf

ok well i know i got a open rear end cause i jacked one rear wheel off the ground and could spin it, but bein that it is open and i do have the trailer wirin should i add gear oil as if it was a limited slip like in the manual or just because it has the trailer wirin does that not mean it has the trailer package Redwolf

this is what the owners manual says bout the rear end fluid types: Fluid Type: AMC/Jeep/Renault Gear Lubricant or equivalent SAE 75W-90 API-GL5 grade. Models with Trailer Towing Package or limited slip differential use SAE 80W-140. now my question is, bein that i have the trailer wirin should i treat it as if it's a limit slip? also i cleaned off the diff cover and found 2 lines of numbers sayin: 42105 009 6 <DANA> could the 42105 be the same number as on the drive gear? also found out that i have a dana 35 C, it stated that on the diff cover rim :) Redwolf

well i'll check again, it might be 80W90 for the diff, Redwolf

1986 Jeep Comanche Custom 2.8V6, AX-5 Manual Transmission, 2WD, Dana 35 Rear Axle, Long Wheel Base No build dat that i can find but it was built in Toledo, OH Virginia Beach, Virginia On the road but still an on goin project, i drive it daily but still workin on minnor stuff All factory stuff except for the engine, got a 2.8 V6 out of a 93 GMC Sonoma I proudly own it :D Redwolf

ok, just to make sure cause i can't remember what my dad said bout how to tell if it's an open or not, if it's open only one wheel will in the rear right? Redwolf

Since just removing the diff cover doesn't touch any moving parts, it's unlikely you could break anything -- and with an old truck, it's probably long overdue to change out the gear lube anyway. But, if you really don't want to remove the cover, you are left with the turn a wheel and watch the driveshaft method. First off -- do you have an open diff or do you have limited slip? This is important because the test is done differently with a limited slip. With a limited slip (if it's working), you have to jack up both rear wheels. When you turn one wheel, the opposite wheel should turn in the SAME direction. If so, mark the driveshaft with a white or yellow chalk or crayon on the side, where you can see the mark when you're sitting or kneeling at the tire. Get the mark where you can see it, then mark a spot on the tire either at the very top or the very bottom. Now, slowly rotate the tire exactly one revolution, and count how many turns the driveshaft makes. That'll be your ratio. If you have an open differential (no limited slip or locker), you only jack up ONE rear wheel. Keep the other wheel on the ground so it can't turn. Mark the tire and the driveshaft. With an open diff, you rotate the tire through TWO revolutions and count the number of driveshaft revolutions. Either way, be sure to mark the tire so you know you are turning it exactly one or two revolutions. If that's not exact, your count on the driveshaft (which is going to be an approximation at best) will have to be off. gotcha, i'm not sure if i have open or limited split, didn't pay attention to the other wheel when i tried the test the first time, bein that my rear end is a dana 35 could it be only an open or did the dana 35 come in limited slip as well? Redwolf

80W90?! opps, my owners manual told me 75W90 for the tranny and diff :doh: Redwolf

You don't have to count anything. Remove the rear diff cover. The large gear with its edge facing you is the ring gear. Rotate it slowly -- there will be a pair of numbers stamped into the flat surface of the edge. One number is the number of teeth on the ring gear, the small number is the number of teeth on the pinion gear. Divide the larger number by the smaller number and that IS your gear ratio. Here's an example: Looks like the numbers in this photo are 46 and 13, so 46 divided by 13 would be 3.5385 ... which rounds off to 3.54. And, just for the record, you very clearly DID say you don't believe us: thanks for the example that clears it all up, is there any maitnece i could do to the diff while i have the cover off? and the only reason i was not buyin my diff bein a dana 35 is because i didn't notice the indent in the side, dana 30 and 35 look the same to me at first glance but now that i know what i'm lookin for as far as differences go i understand, Redwolf

guess i gotta do that test again, would speed of turnin the feel contribute to the speed the drive shaft moves? Redwolf Ok I will play.....yes the speed of the tires would "contribute" to the speed the drive shaft turns.....as they are linked by your diff. if you will not believe anything posted here.....believe your own eyes....take off the diff cover and find the number stamped on the big gear inside......done deal no more guessing as the answer will truly be written in steel..... . :MJ 1: . once again, i never said i don't believe yall, i just wanted to weight out the options that everything could have been, yall have all guessed 3 different gear ratios that i could have, i've done the spinin wheel test and got all 3 gear ratios, and the way of countin the teeth as explained is a bit confusin with the whole divistion math thing, i now understand the tranny and diff types but countin the teeth i still don't understand, Redwolf

ok, i never thought of that, i just thought of one speed but i'll try to get two speed test of 25 and 50 atleast 3 times well i wanna get tested by a cop since they're the ones that issue the tickets, if it's right on their gun i get no ticket :D Redwolf . Sure - they are the ones who issue the tickets - cannot argue that logic, it does have merit. . But - my point is that their radar does not yield consistent results. I expect that this is because they do NOT calibrate their equipment every shift, or that their calibration method is flawed, or that the calibration equipment (usually a tuning fork - the ones I have seen are aluminum - bent, dented, and/or nicked from abuse) is flawed - or some combination of all 3 of the above. And almost never does anyone question the police on their methods... so their word is taken as Gospel, as is the (frequently flawed) reading given by their radar. . That night I recounted above in my previous post I had 2 different police cars check my speed, and not only did their readings not agree with each other, the didn't even agree with their own repeated readings (not even within 5mph). . Furthermore, the police are not there to help you (it is not part of their job), and you could get your friend into trouble for helping you if he got caught doing so. Bad anyway you slice it. . You have gotten tons of good advice so far in this thread - why not take it, do the work yourself, and have confidence in the results? that is true, i've seen a bunch of different readins on the same rador, and i have takin the thought of doin it myself but part of me is afraid to take that diff cover off for fear that somethin else on my truck will break, that seems to be the case everytime somethin gets messed with, Redwolf

guess i gotta do that test again, would speed of turnin the feel contribute to the speed the drive shaft moves? Redwolf