mjeff87

Thanks for that. I thought I needed to lay off the beers a bit...seeing things ya know DC, hack the bed off that thing and build your own 4 link toob rear on it. You have mad crazy skills like that.

Greg, needless to say I haven't made it down to check that MJ here in Richmond fir you yet.....my rain gauge gave me a total of 10.4 inches here since monday. I'm gonna try to get there sometime this week though. Sorry man, things been kinda rough 'round these parts this week, lol.

“Our focus since I took over has been customers first,” said Ted Leonard, who joined the company last fall as its finance officer and became CEO in March. “Two months later, we’ve turned back on the images. It’s an important day. Millions of images were restored that were lost forever. Our mission is to bring back customers and regain customer trust.” “Anytime you lose a user, whether they’re a paying customer not, it’s tough,” Leonard said. “We took a step back and looked what mistakes were made. But we didn’t spend a lot of time on what went wrong in the past but going forward, what kind of services will be offered. They (customers) want an improved experience and a perceived value of reasonable prices.” Emphasis added by me above. Unbelievable.

Stolen from a post read on Pirate, which was stolen from another forum: Photobucket has a new management team that wants to do the right thing. We are committed to earning back your trust and offering comprehensive and flexible image storage and hosting options for our customers. We’ve taken your feedback and made some changes to our pricing model that allows us to offer competitively priced plans that fit the needs of all of our customers. Today, our current customers’ hosted images have been restored and Photobucket is introducing a new pricing plan that is built around everyone’s needs. For a limited time, we are offering a new, competitive subscription package that includes ad-free storage and 3rd party image hosting for just $1.99 per month, or $19.99 per year - which is 95 percent less than the previous pricing model. . . . Too little, too late, I'm afraid. Jeff

side note....is that a Thrush (welded) muffler? I ran one of those on mine...loved it muchly. Cheap, too.

Might just be my bad eyes, but you're rear driveshaft looks a tad short to me. On the leak source, if nothing becomes obvious, I had a 231 that leaked from where the mode selector shaft entered the side of the case. There's a bushing there that crapped out and caused fluid to weep out. Not sure if a 242 has the same bushing (it should, I reckon). On the bolt, try pulling down on the skid plate while loosening. That might hold the (broken) captive nut inside the framerail still enough to unthread the bolt. All else fails, cut the bolt between the skid and the framerail via sawzall or other destructive device, then punch the remnants up into the frame. Replace with a nutsert.

That's awesome. Good to hear he didn't butcher either of them getting them installed too

I notice that you didn't mention upper control arms.......they are a biotch to wrench on. Unless the frankenlift comes with new ones, with replaceable BJ's and you don't need them, lol. My KJ came from Chicago, per the Carfax. The body and paint are immaculate, the only spots of rust upstairs is a tiny spot on the driverside upper door hinge assembly (a piece of paint chipped off and rusted) and one little tiny spot on the inside bottom of the driverside door. I can only imagine the original owner kept it garaged during the winter. The underside, however, is a different story. All of the suspension parts are covered in a fine coating surface of rust. And the weird thing is the transmission pan has a ton of cancer on it. Not to the point of leaking, but it bugs me to no end. I'm gonna put a new pan on it when I do the 120K mile tranny service, which is already 2K miles overdue

We need a KJ sub-sub forum, LOL. My 02 was probably one of the first 10 ever made....dumb OTIS, no window flipper thingy, etc. I'm slowly upgrading as much as I can with later model stuff. Suprisingly, when my passenger window crapped out, it wasn't the usual infamous plastic part....the motor died and the cable un-attached itself. I had to replace the whole sheebang. It was about $70 IIRC, bought it from 1A Auto (as I just did with the UCA's). I'd recommend them for buying anything OEM that you don't/can't replace from the junkyard. Incredibly fast service and good pricing.

Thanks anyway Pete.....I'll probably go back down to my yard and grab that bracket this weekend. I did think of something else (albeit a day late, LOL). Part #55360709AA is a little black plastic pad that goes on the back gate glass. It was only on certain 2002-2003 models, then the bean counters discontinued them. It allows you to close the back glass WITHOUT smearing your fingerprints all over it You used to be able to get the part from the dealer for like $8, but now you're lucky if a dealer still has any and if they do they are uber expensive. You can find a few shady looking places on the 'net that sell them, anywhere from $30 to $90, which I refuse to pay. I figure I can carefully scrape one off of a junkyard KJ, replace the adhesive and put it back on mine, hopefully not crooked. Here's an example of what I'm talking about...https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Mopar-Liftgate-Glass-Flipper-Pad-55360709AA-For-02-07-Jeep-Liberty/401462363333

Got a new PC at work that runs IE 11 and/or Chrome. In IE, the site won't let me check the "keep me signed in" checkbox when I login (it's there, it just won't let me select it, or the "sign in anonymously box either for that matter). Also, when I try to reply to a post, there is no text box for me to type anything into. FWIW, everything works fine using Chrome (that's how I'm typing this post right now LOL), so I know it's an Explorer issue. I'll keep using Chrome, just wanted to let someone know about the problems. Thanks, Jeff

I've not done the rears (yet...) but if they're similar to the fronts, literally all you need is a small Phillips and a 10mm socket. One screw inside the door handle covered by a little plastic cap and another inside the "cup" of the armrest. Pull those then carefully pop the door panel off the Christmas tree holders, then pull straight up. Once the panel is free you have to reach behind and pop off the handle rod and disco the power lock connector. Unscrew and remove the speaker then peel off the plastic vapor/noise barrier. There's only like 3 or 4 10mm bolts holding the whole mechanism to the inside of the door. You might have to get creative with the window though, since you probably won't have any power to lower them....you have to get the bottom of them into a sweet spot so you can pop the lower glass off the connectors to free up the assembly for removal. Oh, and if that thing has the hitch wiring harness....would u mind grabbing me the little bracket that holds the plug-end to the body beside the hitch? Due to technical difficulties (read: I didn't have the correct size wrench to get the one off I grabbed and didn't feel like walking 1/2 mile back to my car to get it) I need one. Right now I just have my connector zip tied to the hitch, total hillbilly style. Lol.

Radio, ??? Tell me what I'm missing, lol. I've got a CD player in mine, stock. Is that a rarity or sum thin? I saw bezel kits online (for relatively cheep) to convert the stock head unit to a double DIN unit and am thinking seriously about it. There's minor mods you have to make inside the dash cavity. I'd like to have a unit that can display a backup camera. My wife's Subaru is like that, and it's kinda nice.

OP, welcome to the forums. Correlation does not always equal causation. When you said you replaced the clutch cylinder, did you mean the slave cylinder on (or inside) the transmission, or the actual clutch master on the firewall? If the slave, that really wouldn't have much to do with the starting system unless you somehow affected the CPS wiring during the work. But, if you replaced the clutch master......those have a nasty habit of leaking fluid inside the cab, directly down onto the fuseblock. Brake fluid (what normally is used in the clutch master) is brutal on the plastic fuseblock, the fuses, and all the wiring connectors on the back side of the block. I'd start by checking the condition of everything in that area. It's directly above the clutch pedal inside the cab. also, check the wiring to the CPS in the engine compartment for damage. The wiring runs dangerously close to the exhaust manifold on the back of the engine. It's possible that the replacement sensors wiring might have gotten melted/damaged somehow. Keep us posted on your progress.....the brain trust here will definitely get it figured out with you

How'd it go? :popcorn emoji:

Definitely grab the window motors/tracks. I've only had one go out on mine so far (passenger front), but I'm sure the driver side is going to die any day now LOL. You might also want to grab the rear gate motor/mechanism/thingy inside the gate. Mine is becoming intermittent, but nothing a good solid whack on the gate below the handle hasn't fixed so far. EVIC display module too, if it has an additional functions on it that yours might not (dunno, they might all be the same on later models). Those things are not cheap. The one I got from my 'yard was $11......they go for several hundred retail. Minor side note.....I put new UCA's on mine yesterday (balljoints were SHOT in mine). If you've not had the fun of replacing them on yours yet, just wait! Driver side was an utter pig to get to the rear frame bolt/nut.....took me about 2 hours until I figured out the right combination of almost every tool I owned to get torque on it LOL. A universal/swivel for my 1/2" drive socket set would have made it much easier but I either don't own one or if I do I can't find it anywhere :) Passenger side only took about 25 minutes, everything is right there once you pull the airbox out.

https://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/d/1985-dodge-omni-glh/6575160147.html

Dodge Omni GLH turbo...... I didn't have a GLH, just a regular 2.2L. Bestest car I ever owned.

Yeah.....that's not what I meant lol

Certainly not me.....until I watched my buddy do it . He broke the first one, which we superglued back together and managed to half azz get it to mount. Learned from that one and got the other one on ok. Try putting an aftermarket header on a 5.9ZJ (same vehicle as above) if you want some real fun. Took him on top, me on the bottom, about 37 beers and every socket/extension/wrench we both had just to get the bolts in. Hah.

I remember helping my buddy replace his (more like I drank a beer while I watched him struggle with it, LOL). The issue is that the lamp assemblies are held in/attached from the rear by a ball-post that pops into a hole in the housing. Quite a mickey mouse setup. When you try to pop the new assemblies in, you basically have to line them up as best as you can by feel (since you can't see the posts) and then WHACK the lenses so the ball on the post end pops into the hole. Watch this video....skip to about 2:10 to see what I'm talking about. Good luck

Just an FYI.....I threw in the towel on this and took my KJ to the dealership. Talked with the senior tech there yesterday who actually knew what he was doing, said he might have to call FCA while he had it hooked up to his scan tool and might not be able to override the code. Dropped it off this morning at 0800, they called me back at 0900 and said it was done Now I just have to go pick it up and see how much they're charging me, LOL. I'm just happy I don't have to deal with the stupid automatic locks ever again. edit: 1 hour labor ($76), plus 10% "shop supplies" fee LOL. It stings a little, but for me it was totally worth it.

So, to totally derail this thread..... Try owning a KJ and trying to find any decent tech forums (or tech info in general) on the internet. You'll have better luck trying to nail jello to a tree.

Wiggle the 5A instrument panel fuse around in the block some and see what happens. Mine had a bad contact inside the block that would make intermittenty.....I had to wedge the fuse inside the holder so it would make constant contact. Is your MJ a manual trans by chance? If yes, check the clutch master rod for dripping fluid. It is conveniently located directly above the fuseblock, and likes to drip fluid directly onto it. No bueno.

I just purchased a 2-pack of emblems off eBay.....$9.99 with free shipping. Like I said, I didn't mind paying a little extra for the convenience, but $67 was just a BIT out of line. My wife had her Subaru at the dealers for some service. Among some other things they recommended a cabin air filter replacement......$65. She called me about it. Told her bring it home, I'll do it. A $21 Amazon order for the filter later......