mjeff87

DOH! I'm an idiot.......I read that all wrong. I'd still opt to convert it tho :D Here's a pic of a couple of AX5's I had for my 4X conversion. Image Not Found Jeff

Sorry for the segue Sled.......I did vote in your poll tho :) I voted to convert it to 4WD and run it. I did the same to my 87, and am so glad I did. If you want to make it a sleeper 2WD, the 2.5 ain't gonna cut it, and you'd have issues swapping in a 4.0L since it's an 86 :( Go for the 4X conversion, and build it how you want to. The possibilities are endless. Jeff

I used to run in a volunteer fire dept up in PA back in the day, and we had an old surplus M715 that we used as a brush unit/personnel carrier, and it was a TANK. It would go literally almost anywhere, just not too fast. Had a 4 speed with granny lo, and a very forgiving "military" clutch :). I spent many a night up on the mountain with that thing, and it never let us down (we affectionatly nicknamed it the "Pukin' Buzzard") That's about what I'm trying to do with my MJ. I figure in a year or so the body will be bad enough (read: not worth the money/expense to restore) and I'll start chopping and building it to be the occasional driver, maybe take the plates off and drop the insurance. Hell, it was a big enough step from 205 to 235's for my little 2.5 (she's getting tired, blowby is getting worse...), I figure 4.56's would do better for 31's (that I could fit w/ an AAL and spaces for cheap$$). If not, that'll just be an excuse to go bigger and fit 33's :) It's never-ending, I suppose LOL. Jeff

Kinda what I'm planning for my MJ, Patrick. I want to run the 4.56's with the inertia ring, and 31's. At that point, it won't be seeing much highway time anymore..... Jeff

Yeah, in regards to Chilton's/Haynes the manual is the same. Each vehicle has it's own FSM, tho.

I have some from the 88 FSM that show both 2.5 and 4.0 (and some others) I can email ya. Believe it or not, Chilton's and Haynes have decent vac diagrams...enough to get you in the ballpark anyway. Jeff

That just LOOKS cold :shock: Nice pics... Jeff

Thanks for the reply. I absolutely LOVE this Mazda engine, and want to see it well past 200K... I took it to my machine shop today @ lunch and had the owner look at it. He says it's just a pinhole, not a crack, and to clean it real good with brake cleaner and put a couple coats of JB weld in it (really!) Since it only has to hold back coolant system pressure (16#) the JB will hold fine, and there's no need to go thru all the hassle/expense of pulling the head (**there's not too many shops left these days who are honest and won't try to skim you for your $$$ That's why I like small, independant shops like his :)) I think I'm gonna try the JB, but in the meanwhile I'm gonna pull a junkyard head ($25)and put it in safekeeping JIC I need to swap it in some day. I'm gonna replace the timing belt and thermostat, as well as a block flush/new coolant while I have it all apart too. Thanks for the tensioner tip....I might backchannel you if I run into issues when I rip into it this weekend. Here's a couple crappy pics of the problem....the leak is about 1/2 way down the plug hole on the left side, but you can't really see it. Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Stupid question, maybe, but could the head be repaired by a shop? That way, all I'd need is the head kit (new gaskets, bolts, valve seals) and I could reinstall it...... my luck it can't be :cry:

Not on my MJ, but on my DD....'94 Escort 1.9L, aluminum head. There's a tiny (and I mean tiny) crack along the inside wall of the #2 spark plug galley. Doesn't leak until the system pressurizes, and I'm loosing maybe 1 tablespoon of coolant per day (it leaks into the plug area and cooks off while hot). I priced a reman head from the local parts houses and they all come in over $550 :shock: so that's not an option unless I hit the powerball. But I expected something like that because the cam is built in, and it comes with the whole valvetrain installed along w/ the cam. I'm just worried that since it's an aluminum head, any one I get from the 'yard will have to be machined too much to make it flat, and then I'm gonna have clearance issues.....then again, I don't want to wreck my whole cooling system with some goop that may or may not do the trick. The timing belt is about 30K overdue for replacement too, so if I swapped heads I could take care of that as well. Any thoughts?

Like I said, it works but isn't the ideal way to do it.....caveat empetor, or something like that :) And remember, it doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work. I find that 3/16" unions (compression fittings) are your best friend, unless you're into flaring..... Image Not Found Jeff

Sort of. What we all collectively referred to as a "return" line is actually a safety line. It is pressurized via the prop valve under the MC in the event of a front brake failure...it sends full braking to the rears. (credits go to Eagle for digging thru the FSM and finding this info out). I, and a few others, have removed the rear valve and eliminated the second line, perhaps unwisely :oops: Everything functions normally, BUT in the event of a front system failure (which I've never experienced) I suspect the system would be compromised. A better way to replumb the whole mess IMHO would be to keep the second line, eliminate the height valve in the back, but tee the two rear lines together. That way you still retain the emergency circuitry that's <> built in. Or you can swap in an XJ prop valve that doesn't have the safety circuit. FWIW, the second line exits the prop valve from the bottom, in the front. It's not the one that comes straight out of the valve. I capped it off @ the valve body with a 3/16" plug, or something close to that. Jeff

That's what I'm thinking also....something tranny related. I've got a worn out input bearing in the AX5 I swapped in, and in gears 3-5 it makes a rattling "marble in a coffee can" sound if not under load (i.e. coasting or deceleration). It also does it if I put the TC in N and run the trans in those gears while motionless. But, it's a constant sound, not intermittent like yours Pete....maybe your input is just starting to go bad (?) I'm living with mine, hopefully it'll make it thru the winter until the big swap next spring :) It's more annoying than anything..... HTH, Jeff

This'll help ya some.... http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... n_AX15.pdf Jeff

Yup, same principal. The "ring" actually bolts to your existing flywheel. You just have to have the mounting holes machined into it (flywheel). Google up Tri County Gear and you'll see what it's all about. The po' little 2.5 needs all the help it can get :) Jeff

I took my new junkyard axle up to PA this past weekend and brought back the 3.73 geared one I had up there to get my $25 core charge back. Well, I wheeled it in there in a wheelbarrow and pulled out my receipt at the counter...told the guy I need the core charge credited back to my card. He misunderstood me, and credited me back the whole axle charge ($89), as well as the core charge :roll: He thought I was returning the one I got. I thought about it long and hard (like 5 seconds) then pointed out the mistake he made. I almost coulda-woulda-shoulda had a free axle with 4.56's in it. Jeff

Barny, I checked both my '87 and that '99 2WD axle in the junkyard yesterday. The spindles are the same, as far as I can tell. Also, Advance Auto lists the same part # for the 2WD front rotor for all model years. I'm pretty sure there's no difference between years, XJ or MJ. HTH, Jeff

The extra foot is between the cab and gas tank filler area. If it's a longbed, you'll see more bed there. Like howey said, it's pretty obvious. And I just discovered my brand-spanking new clutch master (< 15K miles) is leaking :cry: , yesterday when I had to do something in the fusebox area. Check the fusebox area for leaking...you can salvage it if you catch it in time. Jeff

How far's Charlotte from Richmond? (I know that Raleigh/Durham is 2 hrs almost to the minute). Do you have a setup to do it at your house? I can be bribed with copious amounts of beer to help you do it yourself :) Pick a weekend..... Jeff

I wouldn't call it "extreme", but I'm planning 4.56's with the 2.5/AX5 come springtime :) Jeff

Has anyone ever run one? I'm thinking about it, since I'm going to have all my drivetrain swapped out come springtime. I've done some research and have heard only good things about running one with a 2.5 and AX5, and that they install with no to little work. I'm going to install a new flywheel anyways, so I figure it'd be the perfect time to add one. They're cheap too :-D Thoughts, comments? Would it benefit, even though I don't play in the rocks? I've lugged my 2.5 a couple times in 4HI, especially stopping on steep hills.... Thanks, Jeff

The changeover from Renix to HO eliminated the EGR valve. Valve overlap was increased, which may be a *tiny* reason for reduced torque (?) There's a really good renix group on Yahoo (created by a guy over on NAXJA)...you might wanna check that out for any renix specific questions, like the ones you are asking about. Do a search on yahoo groups for "renix" and it'll pop up. HTH, Jeff

I might/could meet up with younz sometime, thanks for the invite. It would probably be more of a ride-along though...my MJ isn't what you'd call "trail rated" at this point. Hopefully, come springtime, that will be different (new axles, tranny/engine, lift, and 31's). I just did the 4X conversion and got it back on the road this spring, and am just running it as is now, stock suspension/tires and no lift to shake out the bugs. Got about 10K so far, and only had one minor problem-a set of stretched UJ straps on the front shaft. Jeff

If you see another MJ heading back down I95 Sunday on your way home, that'll be me.....I'm off to PA this weekend as well, but not for the fun you guys are going to be having :( You from down Gloucester way? I'm just right up the road from you, in Richmond. :wave: Jeff

I just scored a 4.56 D30 last weekend. It came from an 87 XJ w/ 2.5L and AW4. About as rare as they come... I also possess a 3.73 '30 that came from an 87 MJ with 2.8 w/ auto trans that have 3.73's. It, however, is going back to the junkyard next week so I can get my $25 back on the core deposit for the 4.56 one (unless someone needs it??) Jeff