HOrnbrod

Yeah, I just got notified from BCBS that they were dropping my oldest daughter since she turns 24 this month. But luckily she's in the Guard so they picked her up her medical insurance.

Yes, replace the ignition switch first. If it's not keying to RUN, the ECU will not flash - no power to it.

Does the CEL illuminate when you turn the key on? It's sounding more and more like an ECU problem to me mate. :eek:

:thumbsup: Sounds good Sam. UB perfecting some valuable lifelong skills and enjoying it too. :cheers:

I just showed him your post Rob. He's highly pissed and wants to know your address and how to get to you. He's even threatened to root for (gasp) Auburn when college football gets underway. He's just acting out now I guess...............

Yes, that's correct. You'll get the 55, then if there are any fault codes stored, they will come next in order, then another 55 end it all. Just for kicks and grins, unplug the ECU, inspect the pins for any that are recessed or bent, spray a little contact cleaner on the connector pins, then plug it back in again. And make sure the ECU connector bolt is tight.

Si, starboard side. :cheers:

You're not giving her that Bud Lime rotgut are you Fiat? That stuff is terrible (Sorry Jeff :D). Gus my Cocker only drinks Miller High Life (in moderation of course). He's also cutting down on his smoking. Seriously, glad your pal is doing fine. :cheers:

Yep, sure looks good mate. Damn Sam, where do you get all your energy? You have a job too? :cheers:

PDC: Power Distribution Center. Relay module, right side of engine compartment, 91+ HOs ECU: Engine Control Module. Usually refers the the 91-95 XJ/MJ OBDI models PCM: Powertrain Control Module. Usually refers to the 96-01 XJ/MJ OBDII models :thumbsup:

Reading the resistance across fuse terminals w. the negative mains cable removed from the battery tells you nothing unless you have the FSM opened to that particular circuit and follow it from one fuse terminal to the other through each component. I'm guessing you didn't do this. :roll: You could be reading through a relay coil or NC contacts, a resistor, through the ECU, a diode, or just reading corrosion resistance through a connector. It doesn't point to anything - sorry. Did you do the fault code test correctly? I can't believe you had none.

That's exactly right. I tried a modified K&N (modified by using a bigger Amsoil filter for better filtration) and it did make a 3HP difference on the high RPM end on the Hesco dyno. The 62mm throttle body, cowl hood, and 2.5" dual exhaust system helped. A stroker needs balanced suck and blow to run best. But a K&N or similar "cold" air intake IMHO is worthless on a stock engine; your $$ are better spent elsewhere. The stock airbox is quite efficient.

Try running the codes on your OBDI as below. Might give you a starting indication: Reading Computer Codes On 1991 to1997 models you have a way of reading for fault codes which can be accessed without any scanners like other models by reading how the check engine light flashes. Start by turning the ignition key to the last stop before it starts, on and off three times within 5 seconds ending in the on position on the third time, ( i.e. on, off, on, off then on and hold ). The check engine light will start to flash quickly with a small pause in between then a medium pause to indicate the next number in the to digit number and then a long pause before the next set of flashing for the next code. If all is well you will get a code 55 which would read like this: 5 fast flashes, medium pause then a further 5 flashes. This is how all codes end with is this 55 code if you have air conditioning or with a code 33 without and any other codes would have been before it separated by a long pause. The codes will remain after this test so you can cycle through it as many times as it takes to read them. After a problem has gone the code will be removed after 50 on off key cycles or if the battery left disconnected over night which will cause a code 12 though. Code Description Most likely reason 11 No crank signal to computer. Fault in wiring between crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and ECM ( PCM or computer ) or faulty CPS. 12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. 13 MAP Sensor. No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) between engine off and on. Check circuit and MAP sensor. 14 MAP Sensor. MAP sensor voltage too high or low. Check circuit and sensor. 15 Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor. 17 Engine running too cold. Wrong or faulty thermostat. Check also sensor and circuit for fault. 21 Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty. 22 Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring. 23 Intake air temp or circuit. Check air temp sensor and wiring. 24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Check TPS sensor and wiring. 25 Idle Air Control circuit (IAC) Check IAC sensor and wiring. 26 Injector circuit resistance. Peak injector current has not been reached or injector circuits have resistance 27 Fuel injector control circuit. Will need specialist diagnostics. 31 Evaporative control circuit. Fault in fuel evaporative control circuit or hoses. 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault. 34 Cruise control circuit. Fault in circuit. 35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit. 36 Air switch solenoid circuit. Air switch solenoid circuit (non-turbo) or the waste gate solenoid on turbocharged models 37 Torque converter clutch. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 41 Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system. 42 Automatic shutdown relay. Check relay and circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 43 Misfire. Misfire in one or more cylinders. 44 Battery temperature sensor. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 46 Battery over voltage. Check charging system. 47 Battery under voltage. Check charging system. 51 O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks. 52 O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor. 53 Powertrain Control Module. PCM (ECM) fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor. 55 End of code. Trouble codes finished or none recorded. 61 BARO solenoid BARO solenoid failure 62 Emissions reminder. Emissions maintenance reminder. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 63 Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 64 Flexible fuel sensor. Flexible fuel (methanol) sensor indicates concentration sensor input more/less than acceptable voltage 65 Manifold tune value. Manifold tune valve solenoid circuit open or shorted 66 TCM to PCM failure. No message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 72 Catalytic converter circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 76 Fuel pump bypass relay circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 77 Cruise control system. Check power to cruise control solenoids.

I do have a Spal controller for the electric fan that replaced the clutch fan. The stock aux fan works off the stock sensors. The dash switch is only backup in case my Spal controller dies so I can still turn on the aux fan if I need to. :D I have the 91 electrical FSM but no way to scan what you need. Try checking the stat temp sensor connector pins for continuity first. One goes to ground; the other goes to pin 2 of the ECU. Might just be a bad ground, hopefully.

Correct. I use a dash switch to apply a ground to ECU pin 31 as a fail-safe in case either of my electric fans go belly-up. :D

I couldn't format this, but you get the idea. :D Reading Computer Codes On 1991 to1997 models (1984 to 1986 V6 models as well as 1998 to 2002 follow) you have a way of reading for fault codes which can be accessed without any scanners like other models by reading how the check engine light flashes. Start by turning the ignition key to the last stop before it starts, on and off three times within 5 seconds ending in the on position on the third time, ( i.e. on, off, on, off then on and hold ). The check engine light will start to flash quickly with a small pause in between then a medium pause to indicate the next number in the to digit number and then a long pause before the next set of flashing for the next code. If all is well you will get a code 55 which would read like this: 5 fast flashes, medium pause then a further 5 flashes. This is how all codes end with is this 55 code if you have air conditioning or with a code 33 without and any other codes would have been before it separated by a long pause. The codes will remain after this test so you can cycle through it as many times as it takes to read them. After a problem has gone the code will be removed after 50 on off key cycles or if the battery left disconnected over night which will cause a code 12 though. Code Description Most likely reason 11 No crank signal to computer. Fault in wiring between crankshaft position sensor (CPS) and ECM ( PCM or computer ) or faulty CPS. 12 Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. 13 MAP Sensor. No change in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) between engine off and on. Check circuit and MAP sensor. 14 MAP Sensor. MAP sensor voltage too high or low. Check circuit and sensor. 15 Speed sensor or circuit. No signal detected from speed sensor. Check circuit and sensor. 17 Engine running too cold. Wrong or faulty thermostat. Check also sensor and circuit for fault. 21 Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty. 22 Coolant sensor or circuit. Check temp sensor and wiring. 23 Intake air temp or circuit. Check air temp sensor and wiring. 24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Check TPS sensor and wiring. 25 Idle Air Control circuit (IAC) Check IAC sensor and wiring. 26 Injector circuit resistance. Peak injector current has not been reached or injector circuits have resistance 27 Fuel injector control circuit. Will need specialist diagnostics. 31 Evaporative control circuit. Fault in fuel evaporative control circuit or hoses. 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. Wiring to A/C clutch fault. 34 Cruise control circuit. Fault in circuit. 35 Cooling fan relay. Check relay and circuit. 36 Air switch solenoid circuit. Air switch solenoid circuit (non-turbo) or the waste gate solenoid on turbocharged models 37 Torque converter clutch. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 41 Alternator field switch. Switch not operating correctly and check charging system. 42 Automatic shutdown relay. Check relay and circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 43 Misfire. Misfire in one or more cylinders. 44 Battery temperature sensor. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 46 Battery over voltage. Check charging system. 47 Battery under voltage. Check charging system. 51 O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks. 52 O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor. 53 Powertrain Control Module. PCM (ECM) fault. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor. 55 End of code. Trouble codes finished or none recorded. 61 BARO solenoid BARO solenoid failure 62 Emissions reminder. Emissions maintenance reminder. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 63 Controller failure. EEPROM write denied. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 64 Flexible fuel sensor. Flexible fuel (methanol) sensor indicates concentration sensor input more/less than acceptable voltage 65 Manifold tune value. Manifold tune valve solenoid circuit open or shorted 66 TCM to PCM failure. No message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 72 Catalytic converter circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 76 Fuel pump bypass relay circuit. Needs specialist or dealer diagnostics. 77 Cruise control system. Check power to cruise control solenoids.

The rear head sensor is for the temp gauge only. The one on the stat housing is for the aux fan. I test my aux fan by pulling the 2-wire plug off the stat sensor and shorting the pins in the connector. This applies a ground to pin 2 of the ECU to turn the fan on. If the fan doesn't come on, the sensor is bad or the wiring is faulty. If the wiring is open it should show up as a fault code (#22) using the key ON/OFF procedure.

Jim, that requires speculation that makes my head hurt. But since you specified 2001, the XJ wasn't changed all that much except after 97 to subtle out the square look by rounding of some sharp corners on the front end end and tailgate. We all know the new front end looks great on an MJ, and I think if the MJ was continued (minus the the Dak) Mopar would follow the XJ design with a more rounded rear end including a tailgate recessed handle/lock design. I think a bumble bee stripe behind the back wheels as you suggest would look great on an MJ like this, providing Mopar redesigned the rear end / tail lamp contours, maybe even using the XJ tail lamps to save $$.

Great work - short time Alex. :D How you do dat? I like it w/o the red swoosh and it looks much cleaner. I think now since I've seen your work, if the top stripe was black and the bottom was in charcoal as you suggest, (metallic each, not sure of the difference?) it would be golden. Your rendering has been a great help man. :bowdown: Now to see if Spense can create it. :D

That would be great Alex. :cheers: I guess the darker stripe kit would show up the best?

How did the rear brakes work before the lift? I noticed When testing mine in a wet parking lot I had to fool with the adjustment a few times before I got it right. Even 1/4" on the rod length made a hell of a difference. But I have disks back there too.........

I've asked Spense to send me some scraps of the actual decal colors first just to see how it shows up on my silver truck. It might be invisible. :eek: Thanks JACKED88. That's a good idea and a lot easier too, but I'd prefer the HO Elim decals if they show well on the silver. :D Wish I had the skills to draw them on with PhotoShop. Image Not Found

:D We been doing this in 'Bama for years.........

Has anyone tried Spense's 91-92 Eliminator side decals yet? I'm about ready to do it and was looking for some feedback. :cheers:

Bad O2 sensor switching between open and closed loop? Had one that did that once. Also pull the hoses of the EGR and MAP and see if that makes a difference. :dunno: