crooner

...not sure how much water you are talking about, but if water gets inside, the blower motor resistor pack is totally exposed and can wreak havoc on anything in the 'RUN' ignition switch position. I just spent the better part of a week diagnosing the problem that kept mine from running. The resistor pack was the problem. You could just pull fuse #5, then dry it out after a swim...if you don't it'll rust, fail and backfeed your ignition switch. Mine melted inside.

Here's a link to the ignition switch at NAPA: http://tinyurl.com/NAPA-Ignition-Switch And incase that link breaks in the future, the here's the skinny: Ignition Starter Switch Part Number: ECH KS6557 Unit Price: $42.99 Warranty: Limited 12 Months

Problem resolved. Turns out after the AC drain tube had been clogged for years, collecting then dumping water at the footwells (stained carpet when I bought it and rusty seat bolts). I recently and finally found the drain tube, cleaned it and no more water in the cabin. The dealer sells a shorter tube that was produced as a technical repair to eliminate an uphill drain tube. As a result of the tube being clear I'd been running the AC hard for many miles on a couple back to back trips to Atlanta. The moisture in the area around the resistor had badly, badly rusted the resistor--the fan would work on all speeds but the resistor pack was failing. So the amp draw found the next easy target I think, in the ignition key switch module and the wire in the connector there became the resistor or the fan. NAPA had the ignition switch for $42, so I returned the CPS. It comes with simple instructions on how to pull the lock cylinder out of the old one and mount it into the new one. They are a tad different in design, but it all goes together smoothly. My Check Engine light codes now function as you all expected (that was a pretty cool discovery for me, thanks!). I got a code 12 (battery disconnected in the last 50 key cycles, er, duh!), then the 55. Many thanks for the help, I couldn't have fixed this without you guys! :cheers:

Here is what I think the problem is. Not the dark brown part. Its actually worse than it looks and the corresponding wire in the harness that caused it was melted but still had power. I think though, that the innards of the switch are toast and preventing power to the 'switched' circuits (fan, wipers, cigarette lighter, etc.) which I confirmed with a test light. I'm thinking that the blower motor resistor failed and the blower consequently drew a huge amount of amps through the harness (RUN position) and the wire heated up then melted the switch to the point it was shorted. I replaced the resistor pack but not the blower...probably a good idea, but I heard they are spendy and I don't know yet if my ECU is uckfayed up or not. Does that all make sense to those in the know???? :dunno: In spite of not having it run yet, I do love these motors. :doh:

Does the CEL illuminate when you turn the key on? It's sounding more and more like an ECU problem to me mate. :eek: Yes, as normal. I get the seatbelt cell, the check engine, etc. So I know they are working. If it IS the ECU, how much asn I looking at new or would you trust a used one? I'm thinking not. I think I may have located the problem (and pinched L5 and L4 on my back in the process). The ignition module up on the wheel that houses the key receiver has tale-tale signs of melting insulation from one of the hot wires (still don't have a dang FSM for this '95, mine is from a '93 I used to have..not the same). I tapped it with a test light and its getting juice...but the housing which is a white/beige color is dark brown there. So, I may need an ECU still, but thought I'd check with a dealer and aftermarket for a new ignition key switch. I assume the dealer must key it to match?? For what its worth (and thanks for everyone's patience!) I tested all fuses under the dash on the driver's side with the key in the RUN position. No love there for the blower, or wipers. My thought is that perhaps the RUN circuit shorted in the ignition key switch by that dark brown/burnt looking area.

Yes, that's correct. You'll get the 55, then if there are any fault codes stored, they will come next in order, then another 55 end it all. Just for kicks and grins, unplug the ECU, inspect the pins for any that are recessed or bent, spray a little contact cleaner on the connector pins, then plug it back in again. And make sure the ECU connector bolt is tight. I get nothing blinking at all. I'll check the ECU connector, clean it, etc (located on the 'port' side, this is what I call the computer).

Headed back to the barn to try that. I've ruled out the following: 1.) CPS, since it fires/sparks like it normally does but dies immediately. If I doconnect the CPS wire, no spark. 2.) Auto Shut Down relay. Swapped it for a new one today, no joy. 3.) Fuel pump and pump circuit--if you could have smelled the barn after I took the supply side off and cranked it! 4.) Disconnected the MAP sensor, sprayed contact cleaner, reconnect. No joy there either. Blinkers, flashers work when key in RUN position, so I think its making proper contact. However, blower, front wipers and the cigarette lighter do not work when the key is in the RUN position. Blower motor checked out ok on the bench and I installed a new blower motor resistor. Non-switched things work, like the horn, headlights, dome lights, etc. Oddly, the rear wiper does work. Haven't checked the tail lights, but I'll look at the column mounted iggy switch. Might also try to start it in neutral, although if the neutral safety switch were bad, wouldn't the blower and wipers work in the RUN position anyway? I dunno. Thanks!

Hmmm...so I'll chalk that up as another thing that got fried or whatever unless I am not triggering the diag codes correctly. The list, thus far is: Engine cranks, fires then nada Engine error codes not displaying. Blower motor (haven't checked the switch yet, that's next) Front wipers

Perhaps not. I turned the key from the OFF position to RUN, back to OFF, back to RUN, back to OFF then back to RUN and let it sit like that for over a minute. Is that the correct way to do it? BTW, ordering the FSM tomorrow morning...but I need to start a new job 600 miles away on Aug 9th and would like to get there with my once trusty steed.

By 'right side of the engine compartment', you mean the passenger's (starboard) side, yes?

Ok, sorry I got the acronyms wrong. I refer to the fuse panel as the one under the driver's side footwell. I know where the computer is, driver's side in the engine compartment near the air filter box. The box that houses the relays (AC, starter, etc.) in the engine compartment on the passenger side just aft of the battery is what I was errantly calling the PCM--that's the box I've been focusing my time on. I did the key on/off/on/off/on and no codes, meaning no check engine light flashing, in fact its never come on except when I go to start the engine as normal. Should the 55 code flash on an otherwise properly running engine as an indication of no error codes?

Damned nice truck, truly inspirational! :thumbsup:

I thought the switch is up near where the key is inserted? If there is a switch down by the brake pedal on the column, and it were loose, could it also prevent the engine from running after the key is moved from START to RUN? In otherwords, is there a risk of adjusting it too far?

Update: Before attempting to install a new CPS, I disconnected the old one and tried starting it to see how it sounded. As you guys said, it will not fire. Since it begins to fire when the CPS is plugged in, I am guessing the CPS is not the problem. I pulled each fuse in the relay box (on the passenger side of the engine) and verified continuity. I had the negative battery terminal disconnected and checked for resistance on each fuse socket. The 15amp tiny ignition fuse shows 2.5 ohms resistance. The large 60amp ignition fuse socket shows none. Maybe I am way off, but I think this points to either the ignition switch or an issue in the fuse box (PCM I think its called). Also pulled the blower fan and bench tested it, all ok. Pulled the fan resistor and it was heavily rusty likely from the AC condensation that used to build up and dump in the front foot wells until I discovered the clogged drain tube and remedied that. That may have caused the short of the blower...still baffled though.

Ok, I too discovered that the ballast resistor was stopped in 1994, so I stopped searching. No harm. I guess I am not describing the problem accurately. I do know the difference between cranking and starting, but probably wasn't clear about what's happening. Here is what I've confirmed: 1.) Turn the key to RUN, I heard the fuel pump run for a few seconds (as normal). Tonight, I disconnected the fuel supply side and placed it on a clean rag to confirm that I am getting fuel. I turned the key to RUN, listened for the fuel pump to run then stop and finally, cranked it. Plenty of fuel is being pumped. 2.) No check engine light doing the on/off/on/off/on method. 3.) Ballast Resistor not used on 1994 and newer, mine is a 1995. 4.) When I crank the engine, it sounds normal and like it is about to catch (start), so I release the key back to the RUN position and the engine dies (or never really starts). You can hear it firing though when it is cranking--this is probably where I confused the description. The engine never really starts and runs on its own. 5.) When all this happened, the blower motor (AC/fan) stopped working as did my front (only) windshield wipers. I was completing a 1300 mile trip and had noticed that the volt drain with the fan running (on AC or just vent) was a pretty strong draw. Not sure why the windshield wipers stopped too though but am considering the possibility that the whole issue COULD be in the ignition switch in the steering column (yikes). 6.) Tonight, I pulled the blower motor and bench tested it. Works just fine. Still, I pulled the blower motor fuse to eliminate a potentially high draw that may be confusing a relay, etc. With the blower motor out of the Jeep, I tried to start it again--same results and no wipers still. 7.) Pulled all fuses in the kicker panel under the drivers side of the dash, none blown. Did the same to the PMC and all good. 8.) I have still NOT installed the crank position sensor (CPS), that's tomorrow's project. 9.) Headlights, dashlights, turn signals, flashers, rear wiper and dome lights all work. This truck does not have a radio hooked up, and nothing that I would think would pull any juice from the battery, but when I reconnect the battery (key OFF), there is a tiny spark on the negative cable. All this happened as I returned from a long trip, and fortunately (without thinking anything other than the blower motor had gone) in my barn, in the lift bay. That's about best news of the whole thing. So, if it turns out to be the CPS, what in the WORLD does that have to do with the front wiper and blower/fan motor? I guess I need to confirm that I have spark now...although I drove it into the barn, as normal. About the only thing that happend since I last successfully started it was that when I turned off the blower motor it would not restart (I did that on my drive home). Off the beaten path thoughts: - Distributor (which has been chirping a bit) could have died. Not sure how to test that. hmmm - Blower motor resistor crapped out, resulting in possible high current draw and throwing off red herring symptoms - Ignition switch died - Ignition switch post misaligned such that its not making 'RUN' contact