XJGPER

Holy smokes this is awesome, would like to know specs on the motor and fuel economy. Is that Eagle Creek up by Murray i spy in a few photos up?

Looking to find a "whole" MJ rear bumper, doesn't need to have paint, but be fairly dent free. Thanks! Dave

Can you get into the area with a right angle adapter and a left handed drill bit? I took out a broken stud out of a head i did last weekend i had on a bench during a headjob on a ZJ, i was able to use a pointy chisel and manually turn it to undo it. (it wasn't rusted in though came right out after about 30 taps)

I had 235's on my canyon rims (and they do not rub at all), however i put in 1.5" spacers to make the truck less goofy but still retain an OE rim, then i went with 31's. I had to trim about a 3/4"x1" of the inner fender flare at the bottom to keep them from rubbing the flare (they do not rub the control arms with the spacers) but then again this parts getter doesn't leave the pavement. And yes the tires / rims are worth more then the truck.

I was able to find emissions stuff for the 4.0L from the local Mopar man, they were still able to get all the breathers and lines for the older stuff, i would imagine this would be an easy one as well.

If you don't want to get greasy (ha its a jeep and the whole thing leaks). jack the front end up and spin the front shaft, you should get some movement at the tires. If not, apply vacuum to the CAD ports one by one and see if you can get it to move manually. Or do what was posted above. Its a fairly simple system with only 3 points of failure. 1. the CAD itself (either the vacuum actuator or a broken shift fork, if its a broke fork make sure to get a later model cast steel replacement, older style is Aluminum). 2. the vacuum switch on the tcase (i have had 2 XJ's have the rubber adapter that slides on the plastic vacuum switch harden and not make a complete seal) 3. Vacuum lines (they are made of the awesomest most britle material known to man, there are 4 different colored lines, 1 is a supply the others are engage / disengage / and 4wd light). If you find a broken line sleeve the plastic line in two layers of heat shrink tube, i've done this numerous times and have yet to have it fail. Good luck!

I pulled the dash in my '89 to put AC in, i used a 1/4" socket driver (the screwdriver handle with the square 1/4 socket driver) with a wobble and a #2 bit wrapped in electrical tape pressed into a 1/4" socket. I was then able to sneak the bit in and make the corner with the wobble before it makes the windshield. #2 Bit -> 1/4" 12 pt socket -> wobble -> 1/4" drive handle. Its not hard takes a bit of patience, but so does converting a MJ to factory air...

as long as its a rear wheel application it will bolt 2.8/3.1/3.4L.

As long as its a rear wheel drive it will connect to your current trans. however, the fuel injection is a different story. The hot ticket is the 3.4L out of the camaro. or just do what i did and put a 350 chevy in your Heep. I have a advanced adapters ax-5 to 4.3L adapter if you're intersted (lots o-work, its just the adapter).

You have a PM! Dave

Hey folks- Like the title says looking for a ready to go D44 from an MJ (would take XJ). Gonna need it shipped to Coeur d Alene ID 83814. (so pull them out of your barns, that some day project will have to wait another day, but i have beer money ) Dave

It seems like the handful of manual trans Jeep's i've owned have all had a leaky master cylinder at one time or another and the 2 i can remember were always having fuse issues because the entire block was covered in brake fluid (it even wrinkled the firewall paint behind it). I used about 3 cans of electro-motive cleaner (make sure the battery is unhooked, we don't want to see a jeep mushroom cloud, although highly unlikely). I've been good since then, haven't had to do anything fuse related since i cleaned them (a good 12-15 years ago). I wouldn't use anything as harsh as brake clean as the spade connectors in the fuse block are held in by a tiny metal tab, if the plastic where to get soft, the spade connector would slip in and you'd be replacing the fuse block. Oh, make sure you fix the source of the brake fluid as well!

Sounds like either the radiator inlet is leaking or the tank is leaking where it joins the cores or there's a bad spot in the hose. If you want to test it you can pull the radiator and use a garden hose with a nozzle on the end. Wrap a rag around the nozzle (the kind with the squeeze handle off and on), you want a good fit when you put it in the inlet or outlet. Next fill the radiator with water with it lying on the ground, then put your hand over the other inlet or outlet and give the radiator a little pressure. Look for where your leak is at, it should be easy to see with it on the ground. Be careful not to over pressure it, i have 72psi of water pressure at the house and the radiator only supports around 16-18psi normally. Does your radiator have plastic tanks or metal? Sometimes the plastic tanks give up the rubber seal between the cores. Dave

White smoke = evaporating coolant. start it up and look for leaks (it might have to get up to temp for them to be really apparent). If you hoses are squishy and feel like bloated rubber (should be firm, yet movable), replace them. Hoses are dirt cheap. if there are any spring type clamps on the hoses look for a leak around them, they leak when they get old and lose their spring. Look down the sides of the radiator tanks for a leak and look across the cores for any imbedded items. Keep looking and you will find it, coolant runs down hill, so look for the wet spots and start looking up above them. Best of luck! dave

rock auto can get them less then $20 a piece for whatever cable you need (there are 3). http://www.rockauto.com If you need parts check: rockauto.com amazon.com oreillyauto.com autozone.com napaonline.com One of them are bound to have what you need!

Here are some, i'll have to go through the pics on my home computer when i get near it, i pulled these of my ftp server... And next to a stocker...

I agree... Some people just have no clue. The rig now has a 6" wider stance thanks to some wheel spacers. That's my dedicated trail rig, it goes everywhere that isn't a side hill.... I sleeved the entire unibody with 3/16" flat bar for strength. I have about 2 years of my life tied into that damn thing. Sure is fun to drive though. dave

I've done it to an XJ.... http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=539785 If you want more pics let me know i have a whole SLEW of them... Dave

i'de check a few of the front end items: sway bar bushings trackbar mount and make sure the shocks are tight where the bushings meet the inner fender. My '85 would creek at full lock like when doing a u-turn, i took the sway bar off and it went away... Dave

Long box chevy s10's, however from searches on this board, the height of the cabs are different and the topper will be about 3" lower then the MJ cab.

This gives you an idea.. of where its at, its the bump between the two bolts there on the left. This is the pic of the front axle of the jeep i just picked up, usually that tag is burried under a 1/4" of grease, take a screw driver and scrape it real well to reveal what it says. dave

Its a steel stamped tag that is bolted between two cover bolts. Hard to miss if its still got it, sometimes if a rearend gets redone, the tag isn't put back... Dave Also, 2.8L jeeps typically have 3.73's in em.

Look at the axle tag on the axle.. Will say 4.10 or 41 10. Or pull the cover off the front and look for the numbers on the pinion, will say 41 10. Most 4 bangers had 4.10's.. Dave

You can roll the new bearings in with out having to take the crank out... Loosen all the caps but do not take them all off, then pull a cap one by one off and take the accessible half out and take the new bearing half and use it to slide the old top half out, they go real easy and should all go by hand. If you have problems getting the pan off, get the biggest dead blow you can find and gingerly beat just below where it meets the block, work your way around the pan, in about 5 hits the whole she-bang falls off. Make sure you put a new rear main seal in, while you're in the neighborhood put a new timing chain, dampner, and timing chain cover seal in since you have to take the pan off to do so. make sure you RTV the block side of the pan gasket with a thin coat to help the cork / paper out. Dave

well, i got what i paid for to the T. I feel that if i were not to wash my hands when i get out they could very well fall off... But my love for jeeps is stronger then filth and the smell of some type of urine.... Yay for jeep no. 6! Dave