thejim42

Vulcan and sloss furnaces are pretty cool if you are in to industrial history.

I think I'm going to put zj disc brakes on my jeep instead. I'll just put the drum stuff on the shelf for now. D35 to d35 should just bolt right up, just gotta get the right hoses

I said some steal hills. Not a lot like Tennessee and up towards ft Payne and Chattanooga. But where I'm from in Indiana everything is flat

I used a some emmry paper to polish the hole and the dowel, put a little bit of oil on them and used a c-clamp to pop it on

I love my 88 4.0 5speed. Its a 2wd and only has 3.07s but it has balls and in town I get almost 18mpg. I live in the Birmingham area so we have some pretty steap hills, It handles them like a champ

I just moved from Hobart IN, nwi, Gary valpo crown point, area. I'm back and forth a lot. I have an 88 pioneer and an 86 xls

Can you not get it on the little dowel on the pedal.

Everything is new

Its a brand new wheel cylinder

Where is it in relationship to the brake pedal?

I have the right pins, everything is on like it should be and popping up means exactly that. A virtical movement upwards form where it should be. The top of the shoe should sit on the peg right above the wheel cylinder. It doesn't want to stay there.

How to I keep the shoe from popping up.

The front shoe won't stay where it should. It wants to pop up.

I have the shoes on right. I only did one side at a time, the short shoe is in the front, driver side has a new parking brake cable and wheel cylinder, new hardware and self adjuster. Compared the old stuff with the new and it all matches up. I can get the front shoe to seat but it doesn't stay there.

I have been fighting with the drum brakes in my 88 2wd with the d35 for a week now. Ive only done drums a couple times on my old trucks (94 f150 and 99 Dakota). THe passenger side appears to be fine and everything when together like it was supposed to and no issues there. The driver side has been the devil. The front shoe will not seat where it is supposed to and after having the self adjuster and bottom spring come lose while driving I have it all put together, adjusted all the in and now it is dragging so bad that when o got 2 miles down the road to Walmart the driver side is smoking. Am I missing something here? I've never had issues like this.

Do you have the original throwout bearing?

I found out something interesting today. Apparently there are two different thicknesses for the throwout bearing. Make sure its The right thickness

What year is your truck? Is it internal or external slave?

So there really isn't a noticeable difference in power between gears? What if I kept the 3.07s and 235s?

Is a CAD axle one with the vacuum engage off the t-case to the passenger side?

Someone is going to have to school me on all the different axles. cAD, non-CAD, High and low pinion, open carrier, locked, I'm new to axles. All I've done is change gear oil, tomorrow I change axle seals in dads f150 but I've not done anything outside of that. I'd like to do everything myself because #1 at 18 money is rare, #2 I like learning new things and #3 it gives me a sense of accomplishment

I'm debating on either swapping the axles out of my 86 mj which have 4.10 or 4.11 something like that. Keeping what I have or going with something else

Swapping in a whole d35 out of my other truck

I usuwlly drive 75...I'm scared to drive it any faster

I have a 4x4 4cyl mj that I'm going to my 2wd for my little brother for His first car with 4.10s that I can use. What is that going to do for my gas mileage?