Shane

You can calibrate the gauges, but you need specialized test equipment. DO NOT pull the needle on a gauge to make it read what you think it should read. You bought the oil pressure sender from Autism Zone, right? What is the part number of the sender you bought? Shaped "like a bell" is correct, but there are many oil pressure senders shaped like a bell with different HI-LO ohm ranges. Part # PS133. All advice is appreciated...

So the oil pressure reading 20 psi isn't a bad thing??????? I have the oil sending unit that looks like a bell. Does yours look like that? Got it from auto zone. If yours don't look like that, then what does it look like? Thanks alot man for all your help... :dunno:

So the oil pressure reading 20 psi isn't a bad thing??????? I have the oil sending unit that looks like a bell. Does yours look like that? Got it from auto zone. If yours don't look like that, then what does it look like? Thanks alot man for all your help...

Another question? Seeing how you never know the people in which you get a part from or what they have done to it; is it possiable that the needles are pushed on too far? Just an idea, thought I would ask.

The oil gauge may reach 50. On the highway it drops below 40 and then steadies itself around 25 until I give it gas. The oil is good and seems to be getting the oil pressure. The sending unit they gave me is in the shape of a bell (best description). Any one know how tho check the ooil pressure? I'll check the part tomorrow to see if its right. Let's say every thing is good; is it possiable to adjust the gauges????????

Is this possiable???

I filled the tank today and the hand only went to a little over 3/4. Along with that my speedometer reads about 7 mph less than GPS. Can I just simply pull the needles off and put them where they should be? Another question my oil pressure gauge starts out at 40. As I get higher in the gears it goes down to almost 20; is this correct? It runs good. If not how do ya fix it.. Basically the question is can I pull the needles on the gauges to adjust them to being accurate? Does the oil pressure reading sound correct?

:dunno: :dunno: None of this electrical stuff makes sense to me. In Lamens term, what do I need to do to wire like it is supposed to be? :dunno: What does everything connect to? i've even read about it connecting to the radiator?? :dunno: I explain the wire scheme on this post viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34714 a way to test to see how/what your po did is to pull the relay that is on the driver side. use a multi meter to see if you have voltage across 85/86 with ignition on. if this is the case disconnect the plug that goes to the switch in the radiator. driverside. and measure again... if you still have 12 volts they altered the wiring. if there is no longer voltage then the temp switch is bad. here's a pic of the relay i found on the net for the relay pin layout and numbers... disregard the red wire in the diagram it's for something else. pic is for reference if you want i can take pictures of each connection and post it. if that will help. :banana: Honestly that would help out a great deal. :cheers: I do not want to be any trouble to any one. If you are willing to do that and do not mind, then I will reall appreciate it. :cheers:

I had the same issue with over heating. One thing is make sure that you have the right temp sending unit. The one for the light ha a slot in the top and the one for the gauges has no slot. Analternative to the coolant bottle and if you are on a budget and can't convert to an open system, check out macsradiator.com the have some aluminum surge tanks. http://www.macsradiatorshop.com/surge-o ... tanks.html They are at the bottom of the first page.

:dunno: :dunno: None of this electrical stuff makes sense to me. In Lamens term, what do I need to do to wire like it is supposed to be? :dunno: What does everything connect to? i've even read about it connecting to the radiator?? :dunno:

:cheers: Thanks alot.... Didn't mean to ask something that has recently be discussed. I should have looked back a couple of pages I guess. Must be laziness...... Thanks again

:no: No, no... Don't get me wrong I did that and it is good as far as I could see, but I was letting the gas run down to see when the light comes on. The needle is sitting on E, but the light has yet to come on. Like I have stated in alot of my post I am not a mechanic :wrench: and do not claim to be one, however, :idea: I am very logical and exercise common sense :rotf: .. Thanks alot for the advice. If it is off, how do you adjust it

Nice find!!! :cheers: How do you guys find these trucks on lots. It's been ages since I have seen one on a lot here in NC.

When I bought my MJ the PO has the electric fan wired to where it stays on with the turn of the switch. I have 3 questions: 1. How do you wire it correctly (like it was from the factory)? 2. If I wire it to where I can switch it on and off does that affect anything? 3. What is the best way to do this? Keep in mind that this is my DD, so it won't be seeing any major offroading. Maybe some mild trails.... Any advice is appreciated.

Finally completed the idiot light to gauge conversion. How do I check to make sure that the speedometer is accurate as well as the tach and fuel gauge? Any advice is appreciated.

No, no... :smart: It has to be those wheels. :smart: Did the come from a Pimp My Ride auction? :rotfl2:

:bowdown: That is the second $10k MJ that I have seen on here in the past couple of weeks. :popcorn: What are these people smokin'. Don't get me wrong I love these trucks as much as anybody else, but lets face if any of paid $10k for an MJ it better be the Holy Grail (last on made) and in excellent condition. Even at that we would probally have to go in with 4-5 people to get it right? :clapping:

It's my first time changing one by myself and like I have said in the past I am not a mechanic and don't claim to be one. I like these trucks and figured I should do some of the stuff myself. I have never really seen a piece like that brass looking thing thats all. Once again all the advice is greatly appreciated, :banana:

Any idea on what to use as the part is round. Channel Locks, maybe?

Not a computer wiz. Got any ideas how I do that?

Does it unscrew with that brass looking piece or what?

Trying to finish up my full cluster swap and I ran into an issue with the oil sending unit. My question is after you unplug the wire, what all do you take out and how do you do it? I have the one that is shaped like a bell to put in there for the gauges. Do I remove the whole thing from the motor or what? Any advice is appreciated.

I can't seem to stay permately signed in like I was in the past. This has only happened over the past week when I close my laptop.

:( C'mon any advice :huh???:

I was having this problem also until yesterday. I took mine to a local man that just deals with alternators and wiring. Come to find out my glove box light was staying on because it wasn't shut all the way. I know it is a shot in the dark, but I tightened mine up and it shuts fine now. No dead battery.