Shane

I was wondering if anyone knew when the cooling systems were switched from closed to open? I know a lot of changes happened for the. 91-92 models, but I've been seeing a lot of 1990 models for sale and it appears to be an open system. There is no pressure bottle on it. If someone could shed some light on this it would be appreciated?

The easiest way to describe it would be: As close to stock as possiable. It fits in the bed in the front, then at the top of the bed it curves out a bit and the suppoort bars bolt to the inner fender of the bed. Sorry I am not the best at post ing pics. Still working on it though.

Thanks, but I'd prefer the ones that appear more truck like rather than jeep like. Thanks again though.

Looking to buy a roll bar if any one has one. Nothing bulky, prefer it ti be stock or as close as possiable.

I sold it about a month ago. Just needed something different that would get me from point A to point B. I'm gonna start looking for another one to fix up.

Have no fear that is what I intend to do. Just felt I should make it known. Share the good and share the bad as well.

I have owned 2 Comanches and have been a member on this site for some time. Though I don't post religously, I do post as can be seen that it's not my first post. With that said this is the only forum that I am a member of where other members nitpick everything that is posted such as if you say its never been taken out of the box, how did you get a picture of it. Come on guys!!!!! Are we that narrow minded to not know that Never out of the box is probally just a restatement that its brand new, never installed, still have the boxes and original plastic, etc.? I think these people should get a life and realize that being a smartass sometimes makes you look like a dumbass. Once again this is the only forum where I experience this problem. Rest assured that I can get knowledge else where and really don't need this hassle. Just wanted to inform you that a lot of these members probally shouldn't have a Jeep let alone a lifted one. To those members I say, "Eat $#!&."

Any more ideas out there guys????? I would really appreciate it?

We actually got it to fire, but tried it again later and same issue. See at first the battery would go dead about every week and then would stay charged. So we got a new battery. Mainly because if it wasnt the issue I still need a new one for my xj as I stated early, so it wasnt a loss. We tested for the spark when we changed the plugs and even pull the fuel line. Really has me baffled. As I stated in some of my other post I am not a mechanic nor do I claim to be one so if it seems like a dumb question i apologize for that. Would the starter be the issue.?

Oh yeah they had spark..... I just assumed to do that and forgot to add that in there. We even pulled the fuel hose to make sure that it was getting gas.

My 89 MJ is 4x4 and automatic. At first the battery was goning dead. So I figured battery or altenator. Had battery checked out and it was ok, but I needed one for my XJ anyway. I bought the gold top Duralast. It fired right up after putting the battery in there. Then I went out one morning and it wouldn't start. It would turn over. So we pulled the altenator and had it tested at a alternator shop and it came back fine. It has a brand new rotary button, distributor cap, and spark plugs as well. Are there any suggestions out there as to what it might be. Sorry for the long description, but I wanted to hit all the details. Any help will be appreciated guys.

Nice trail rig.... I wouldn't give that much for it, but he probally has 12K + in it. A prime example of not being able to get what you got invested in it. For me the only way I would even consider $12K, it would have to be a 92 of course, auto on the floor, 4x4, and unmolested with the exceptions of maybe a 3 inch lift different exhaust and wheels. Tobe clear I'm not knocking the guy for asking that much, it just isnt for me.

Who is LKQ? How much do they want for it?

Got any pics to post of it? How much is your asking price?

I like that decal brother...

I know that somewhere out there some one is pulling their carpet or vinyl mat to never reinstall it again. If there is any one out there that comes acroos the carpet or vinyl mat that came out of one of these. I'll appreciae it. See I order a carpet kit and then the vinyl kit and neither one fit worth a $#!&. That is the reason I am looking for the used OEM part.

C'mon guys help a brother out. Somebody has got to have a XJ or MJ that they don't need the carpet or vinyl interior.

Nice looking truck bro. I personally have never had any luck finding carpet or vinyl kits that were actually molded correctly to fit without having wrinkles in it. I'm not saying that they aren't out there. I finally got mine out of a late model XJ and cut it. I'm more happy with that than I was with my aftermarket carpet and vinyl.

Dido to all above. It's amazing that people out there actually think their 100,000 mile Comanche with a $4000 paint job actually deserves a 300% mark up. To top it off, it's not even a 92.

There are several on carsforsale.com. A few are in Virginia I believe. Some on that sight people are extremely proud of, but there is a couple decent ons on there for a fair price.

I have an 89 MJ that I need either the original carpet or an original vinyl mat for the interior. Color needs to be gray or black. Please no after market kits. I have one of those in it now and it fits like @$$. So I want an original. Does not have to be perfect, but no rips in it. Respond on here, or text me at 704-298-5563. Please text me first as I work some odd hours. Thanks alot. PS> I do have some door panels and a bench seat in good shape if someone may want to work out a trade.

I am looking for a set of stock fender flares for my 89 MJ. I only need the back ones, but will buy the four if I have to. Let me know if you guys have any. Reply on here or my email is rsdrye81@gmail.com

:agree:

Yes, It's getting spark and fuel. :clapping: I forgot to mention that. :doh: Well then, it's either getting not enough fuel or not good enough spark. How did you test for this? Like I said, "I'm no mechanic and do not claim to be one." My father-in-law tested those things while I was at work one day. He said that he thought it was the distributor or the crank shaft position sensor. I just prefer to get a diagnose from true comanche people to make sure that I am fixing the right thing and not spending money on something that doesn't need it right now. Then check the fuel pressure with a gauge. And check the CPS output like this: Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out it’s mounting holes with the first drill bit that just won’t fit through the original holes. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 11-29-2011 Tested CPS using a volt meter. According to Haynes Repair Manual, it should show no continuity. It tested at roughly 241. Am I correct in assuming that is the problem? If so what causes these things to go out? Age? :thumbsup: Thanks again brother for all the help!!!!!

Yes, It's getting spark and fuel. :clapping: I forgot to mention that. :doh: Well then, it's either getting not enough fuel or not good enough spark. How did you test for this? Like I said, "I'm no mechanic and do not claim to be one." My father-in-law tested those things while I was at work one day. He said that he thought it was the distributor or the crank shaft position sensor. I just prefer to get a diagnose from true comanche people to make sure that I am fixing the right thing and not spending money on something that doesn't need it right now.