Tomahawked

http://www.por15.com

The truck was 2wd. It came out of the donor Cherokee. The problem I have is when lever is all the way forward what I think should be 2wd mode the light shows in part time 4wd. Rear driveshaft is not installed yet and in fulltime 4wd the front won't engage. I need to try and adjust it but bolt is jammed and maybe cross threaded at the linkage.

I ended up with a 242 transfercase in the truck. Which lights display on gauge cluster and how what positions are on shift lever?

I ended up with a 242 transfercase in the truck. Which lights display on gauge cluster and how what positions are on shift lever?

The pipe would normally make a rattling sound. You should check u-joints while under there. Just need to remove straps on rear u-joint. Then move each of them thru the full travel on both axis. Sometimes they develop a tight spot and will cause a very noticable vibration.

The pipe would normally make a rattling sound. You should check u-joints while under there. Just need to remove straps on rear u-joint. Then move each of them thru the full travel on both axis. Sometimes they develop a tight spot and will cause a very noticable vibration.

Harbor Freight has a double flare tool that was less than $8. It works great. Done many brake lines so far with no regrets. If you are up in the rust belt, might as well go ahead and replace everything thats steel on truck, not just the brake lines. With 20+ years of use, can't last forever. Just had to replace the brake lines on my `55 F100. Over 50 years and completely original something had to finally give up.

It was the typical 3.08 gear in truck from a previous Pujunk 5 speed. I swapped in the auto from Chreokee with 3.55. So that carrier was installed in the truck housing. It was about the easiest gear setup I have done. All I had to do was remove a 0.005" shim from inner pinion bearing. That put everything exactly in spec. The Comanche had more miles but bearings looked new compared to Cherokee. The only thing that took time was swapping the pinion bearings over. You have to be very careful when removing the large inner cone, so not to damage it. One crush sleeve measured longer and with the shim removed, it gave me a usable part. So the cost of swapping everything over was for a pinion shaft seal. There wasnt even a groove on the yoke from old seal like the Cherokee axle had.

Yea, what he said........

If you mean the 7 inch lbs pinion bearing preload, 0.008 backlash, pinion depth set and correct pattern on teeth, yea its fairly close for 190k miles on parts. So if it doesnt get too hot or howl, should work out fine.

I was about to cut down and weld the 2wd rear driveshaft to correct length. But I thought someone had gone to the bone yard and found a possible swap from a particular car. I changed over to 4wd with 4.0, automatic, and 242 t-case. Truck is swb and all stock. If someone has some good info, I would appreciate any suggestions.

Changed over my Comanche to 4wd using a wrecked Cherokee. Glad there are so many of these vehicles around as organ donors. While I needed to get matched gear ratios, the Cherokee seemed an obvious way to go. Seemed to be common practice to cut and reweld the spring mounts, and would make the swap a done deal. I noticed the Comanche axle used larger ball bearings on axles, and didnt require opening the third member cover to remove them. The Cherokee used smaller roller bearings, and C-clips to retain them. Comanche had larger diameter drums with 10 X 1 3/4 shoes, while Cherokee was 9 X 2 1/2". So after removing both axle assemblies, I opted just to replace the ring and pinion. Took less time and didnt require cleaning, torching off the perches, grinding and rewelding. One less headache of not having to measure and get angle correct. So it is done and off to the next step to getting the truck on the road.

I know the heads to them are 13 MM... and a PITA to change any idea on the diameter and pitch? thanks pong Between 6mm and 8mm, are the most common size bolt sizes used. The lower shock bolts are 8mm X 1.25. They resemble a 5/16-18 but don't trash them out by forcing one on the other. A simple way to determine the difference between 8mm and 5/16 is measuring the hex head with calipers. An 8mm bolt head will be larger than 1/2 inch. Usually close to 13mm or about .512". A 5/16" hex head will measure close to 1/2" or .500". The smaller torx head bolts holding the fenders on will be 6mm X 1.00. All of the pipe fittings will be standard thread. So far on the older models I have removed parts from , brake lines are still standard thread. The 4.0 motor bolts are standard thread while any brackets and accessories that don't bolt directly to the head or block are all metric. I am sure there are variations over the years.

Fuel filter will also give same problem. If too much moisture is caught in the filter it will totally restrict flow. Just another possibility.

I have a new 91+ alternator that says is regulated by computer. Are the earlier 87-90 RENIX models basically the same? Will it work without any major alterations? I also have the right mounting brackets. Either use this new one, if can be easily adapted or spend money to buy the right alternator. Any insight will be greatly appreciated.

I have a dodge truck with same problem. Pressure drops, oil light comes on, and top of motor rattles. Changed to a straight 50 or 60 weight oil(Vavoline from Autozone) and for the last 25,000 miles, no light or drop in oil pressure. It remains at 40 psi.

Complete assy in stock at Autozone. Airtex E7091S $99

Regardless of the transfercase, the Airtex fuel pump/sending unit is the same. Part # E7901S

I asume all Comanches have foot operated e-brake. Will the console mounted e-brake work on Comanche? Even if some minor mods are needed?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135806

Certifit. Black grill alone is $12. The chrome is $18. Other parts are comparably priced.

Just picked up a Cherokee 4X4 same year as my PU and motor complete running for $300. It has been wrecked slightly in the rear, so insurance totaled it. Today I missed out on another `4 liter, 4x4 242 with the aluminum factory wheels for $400. High miles but Cherokee body was flawless and ineterior was clean with no rips. Only problem was clearcoat was flacking around edges of hood. Otherwise it was better than most older Jeeps I see on the road. Keep your eyes open and be ready to jump when possible. Otherwise you are going to be at the mercy of junkyard prices and that will add up very quick. Especially if the yard pulls parts off for you. If you are not planning to go with huge tires and do serious offroading, swapping out for a heavier rear axle isnt realy necessary. Especially if cost prohibitive for you.

I consider death wobble any massive shaking of the wheels requiring you to nearly stop in order to correct the problem. Definately experienced it on several lifted trucks with loose steering components and worn out tires. I had one big lifted truck in particular that just wandered all over the road. Most noticable on asphault that was crowned from lots of miles of big truck traffic. Espically bad when the tires were worn to match the road. It was a white knuckle kind of ride most of the time. I finally adjusted the toe to a little under 1/4" in. It originally had about 3/4 toe out. Good reason for it to wander so bad with that much toe out originally. Miraculously the severe wandering went away. But when hitting a bump after a certian speed the wheels shook violently. So I started adjusting the toe back out until I didnt get any wobble. It put the toe settings just out a little past zero. Probably less than 1/8". Just enough to keep the tires loaded in forward motion. But still no wandering either. SO finding that happy medium wasnt so difficult and has worked on old 2wd straight axle trucks and 4wd's. Its worth the time to try. But if your tires are noticably worn on the outer edges, may not do much good. Tires were always the most obvious problem. When that didnt work the toe settings took care of everything else. I am just a nobody that has played with 4x4's all my life. So if you try it and works, great! If not be sure to tell everyone I am an idiot.

Does the actual harnass to engine unplug seperately from main loom on firewall in an 89? There is a big connector that appears to go where an engine harnass would tie into. I don't have an engine or wires to it in this particular truck and don't have another to compare to. A 90 model donor I just picked up has the engine harnass in one piece all plumbed in to the main loom. My plans were to stab a motor in, but now I will need to get an engine harnass or swap all of the 90 loom in.

Does it bother anyone else, or just ??? When seller goes to the trouble to add "SOLD" in the ad, leaving it listed for another week, instead of following the guidlines and deleting? Annoys me bigtime for some reason. And I don't know why...