FXWorks

Here's a version with the warranty and contact pages removed. 52381847_AUX-C1Instructions_contact+warranty_removed.pdf https://stirlingpdf.io is a free PDF service. You can also download the software and self host it yourself as well (this is how I've changed this file).

Re: removing the side stripes... Depending on how faded the paint is you may be left with stripe shaped bright red lines under where the stripes used to be. I'm not sure I would pull them off if it is original paint. Those stickers look old (style) so have probably been on the Jeep since the 80s. Just a thought.

Most excellent!

I didn't know these sensors were a thing. Are they still available? Part number?

The guys at speed.academy speak highly of the Atoto head units. I don't have any experience with them myself.

XJ/MJ tows a 1500 lb trailer like it's not there.

Re: Gearing, start here and play: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html I think you can make the 4.0 happy at any rev range with correct setup. I forget what factory RPM is at ~60mi/h for a late model XJ. Something like 2300 RPM? I'd be inclined to shoot around there or a little lower. Who cruises at 60 mi/h any more? Could set the factory cruise at 70 mi/h with factory rpms instead. Perhaps the factory PCM is optimized for cruise at 60 mi/h. Also, if you are going to be towing, don't go too deep with the gearing. When towing you will not be in overdrive so your RPMs will be quite high. My built XJ is on 265/75-16 (32") with 4.56 gears. I wish I did 4.10s just because of the towing at highway speeds really winds the engine out in third. People say the 4.0 doesn't mind some RPMs but if you are towing a big, heavy camper 6-10 hours a day at times on the four lanes for that family road trip it gets tiresome IMO. For a pavement princess I don't know that I'd bother with a Ford 8.8. Get a ChryCo 8.25 with LSD. You can upgrade the 9" drums to 10" if it bothers you. Did KJ 8.25s have disks? Having done a roll-yer-own rear disk brake conversion on the Scout 44 in the back of my XJ I wouldn't bother with it again. For me the bang for the buck was WJ front brakes (and steering ofc). Spring over axle causes more axle wrap. If you will be towing a lot of heavy loads it may matter. That said, on a pavement rig I don't think it is that much of an issue, or just deal with it. Spring over will be very hard too keep low without being "non-optimal". Lately for my "fleet" of classics I'm all about getting bluetooth working on the factory head units and upgrading the sound output part of the systems. I don't have a lot of cycles into it though. In the sports cars I've been thinking about bluetooth amps with just a volume knob that connects to my phone. Use the normal HU space for aux gauges (i.e. no AV display - keep the driving experience pure and distraction free). The other idea is a SBC with a 2DIN display running Linux that boots straight into Carplay but it's fiddling time I'd rather spend elsewhere these days. Being of a certain age I find the audio side of car builds don't interest me much any more - would rather invest in good sounding exhaust. I don't know that having the overhead speakers wouldn't be annoying. I have headrest speakers in my MX-5 but in the seven years of owning the car I've never turned on the head unit so can't suggest whether it is a thing worth bothering with (pulled HU last summer for CAN/OBD telemetry gear install for autocross). Perhaps a better approach for the speakers in a Comanche would be a under/behind the seats sub, good quality door speakers, and A-pillar tweeters from a late XJ with upgraded speakers. Hmm, I think that'll be how I do mine. HTH

Thank you!

1988 Jeep Comanche SWB 4.0 / 5 speed / 4x4 / short wheelbase Build date unknown - sticker is too faded to read Location: Madawaska Highlands, Ontario, Canada Status: Long suffering, disassembled project truck awaiting its turn patiently. Big plans for a minimalist slide in camper top and towing autocross cars for car club away events.

Thanks, All! I'll register it. In it's current state it hasn't been a priority. I've owned the Jeep since 2009 but it's been disassembled and getting rolled around the shop every 6 months since then. Too many projects and it never seems to get moved to the front of the queue. I have high hopes for Winter 24-25!

I was today years old when I discovered that you can get the build sheet for late model XJs by adding your VIN to a jeep.com URL: https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=1J4FJ67S0WL012345 <-- edit this to a real VIN It works great for all my XJs but doesn't work for my MJ. Too old I guess or maybe there is another system for the older series MJs and XJs? I only have late model XJs so wasn't able to test pre-'97 XJs. Anyone know of something similar for MJs?

Yes, exactly. I considered doing it that way. I have a Prusa Original XL that has a print volume of about 14" x 14" x 14" but I think I'd rather do it one piece. It's fiddly doing it in parts and nowadays building your own printer is not that big a deal compared to what it once was. Plenty of resources out there.

I work from home. I'm building a large scale printer.

Thanks! Alas, no match to anything in that thread.

Hi! Once upon a time I saved this image of a Comanche with what I think I remember to be a "factory top" for the bed (see attached). Does anyone have any information on these toppers? Do they appear for sale ever? I really like the lines of it - enough to maybe try 3d printing one. Does anyone have more pictures of these tops?

Hi, I am looking for a replacement washer tank for my Comanche. The one on the truck has gotten brittle and cracked. I had one on the shelf but it seems pretty much done as well - figure it might break if I install it. I did some searching here and saw the mod using the late model tank but I'd rather keep the tank under the hood and on the inner fender - keep it OEM like. It looks like Omix-Ada and the usual suspects don't make re-pops of these tanks for this vintage Jeep. Am I looking in the wrong place perhaps? Has anyone adapted any other similar tanks? I'm trying to avoid the hassle of welding up something out of aluminum and looking blingy - not that kind of truck. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

That would be awesome if you could! I will PM you my email address. Thanks!

Could someone with an MJ owner's manual look something up for me? I need to know the GCVWR (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating) for an MJ. It should be in the section on towing (there's a data table there - at least in the XJ manual). 1988 would be ideal but I'm not going to be fussy as I doubt it changed between 1987 and 1992. Also, what is the best source to purchase a hard copy of this manual? I want to have one for my glove box in case I get pulled over by an overzealous police officer or highway regs officer. Thanks!

I'm going to do one of these eventually (Flippac): http://adventuretrailers.com/page/vehicles/at_flippac/ It'll be perfect for in-field camping at multi-day track events when I tow the car due to distance.

I'm getting ready to tear into my MJ this winter and as part of that I've been thinking about all the fun things I need to build or purchase. :) Thinking about sliders or rock rails... The pinch seam only runs under the cab. I have JKS/ORGS Super Nerfs on my XJ and I really like how they get attached to the pinch seam... the rails are pulled into it such that it becomes a structural part of the rocker. I'd like to replicate that for my MJ. However, what about the box section? There is no pinch seam. Should the rail for the cab even be used to support/protect the bed? The bed will flex around relative to the cab when off-road... shouldn't it be allowed to do that? Maybe a separate slider structure should be built for the bed? Thoughts or experiences?

Hey, if you decide on the 4.7 make sure you measure before committing any funds. The 4.7 is SOHC so it is wide. I've been thinking about a Honda J engine mated to a AW4. Not sure if you'd need to make an adapter but I think it would be a cool engine to try. Just a pipe dream. My MJ is getting the 4.0/AW4/interior out of my 98 XJ.

What does it say the payload is for the same truck? I thought it was 1478 lb? Edit: better yet, is this brochure online?

I've been doing some more research and such on this topic for my own situation. In Ontario we have a regulation that states that any truck and trailer combination over 4500 kg (9200 lb) must have an annual inspection and display a yellow sticker to be available for road side spot checks. I want to avoid this if possible. The government gets enough of my money and I don't need to get reamed for $300-$400 annual inspections either. I've done some trailer designing and have a spreadsheet that spits out the weight of the materials and parts for the trailer. Using my numbers: trailer: 1200 lb (including weight of ratchet straps, trailer spare tire, etc.) car: 2800 lb two sets of extra tires/wheels: 400 lb tools: 100 lbs Total trailer weight: 4500 Truck GVWR = 4700 (Is this correct?). The GVWR is what is used regardless of what the truck actually weighs. The flip pack camper weighs 300 lbs so plus me and my wife and any clothes, camping gear whatever we pack we will be well withing the GVWR. If the trailer ends up being heavier ultimately I'll take some of the payload weight off. I figure I'm within ~50lbs of what it'll weight though. Total combined: 9200 lbs Skin of the teeth kind of thing (see regulation at the top of this post). I could throw one or both set of tires/wheels and tools in the truck to make it work without issue. I don't have to have two sets of spare wheels either. The thought was rain and hard compound tires in conjunction with the super stickies. I think this is workable. After towing the big tent trailer with the XJ I'm certain the MJ can deal with this load provided the bed is not light. I don't have the owners manual for my truck and the door placard is all faded away. What is the gross vehicle weight rating for a 1988 SWB 4x4 Comanche? The number I used above is the curb weight plus the payload rating I found online. I've noticed other vehicles that I'm doing these calculations for have a the GVWR typically higher than those two numbers added together.

That's nothing. I heard there were whole factories out there that convert oil to plastic!

Do what needs doing to strip the metal and get it ready for welding. Do your welding. Once everything is done then galvanize. You don't want to have to weld on freshly galvanized metal. If you acid dip you don't need to do any sandblasting. The acid dip strips all paint, caulking, etc.