mvusse

in a disconnect axle, there should not be a seal on the right (passenger) side of the differential because oil needs to get to the vacuum disconnect system to lubricate where the two shafts meat as well as the lock collar. There should be a seal on the outboard side of the disconnect. NAPA 11771 is what can be used on the passenger side of the differential if you throw out the shift mechanism and two piece shaft to replace it with a single piece shaft.

If you remove the vacuum shift motor from the axle housing you can access the other end of the shaft through there.

IIRC, I believe older full size Cherokees/Wagoneers and J trucks had a right hand drop front axle and they are almost identical in width to ours. Some (most? all?) of those are Dana 44s. Junk steering has little or nothing to do with the type of suspension. It has to do with a correctly setup steering system for your type of suspension. With leaf springs the drag link has to be as close to parallel to the axle as possible. With 6" or more lift this may mean having to go to a high steer set up and/or using a (large) drop pitman arm. This in turn means you have to reinforce the frame around the steering box so it doesn't rip the bolts through the frame from the additional leverage (actually a good idea anyway when running large tires). You also have to make sure the drag link and leaf springs don't interfere with each other. With a 2, 3 or 4 link with panhard bar, the drag link needs to be parallel to the panhard bar (track bar) and ideally the same length as well. This usually means you keep your stock pitman arm, or in some cases depending on steering modifications, a lesser drop (rise) one. Theoretically a coil sprung multi link suspension could ride nicer, handle better and flex more than leaf springs, but in practice I have witnessed leaf spring set ups that performed as well as or better than poorly executed coil spring suspensions (like a radius arm type long arm setup.)

Built for Yankee Lake looks like.

Major: Bigger axles and tubed out back to make room and attachment points for a 4 link. Minor: Redo CB antenna mount, reinstall headliner and replace passenger side floor.

How can a transmission be any side drop. It's a transmission, not a transfer case. And I'd opt for the 700R4. Plenty strong for a compact truck like ours and overdrive would be good on the highway. Making the 350 fit over top of the front axle would probably mean either a lift or a custom oil pan. Don't have any input on axles as there are so many good choices out there, but do have a little input on springs. I have seen two front leaf spring conversions. One was on an MJ in the junk yard. They put a YJ axle under the front, attaching one end of the leaf springs to the lower control arm brackets, and the other end to a custom made front bumper that stuck like 8" out past the front of the truck and looked like crap because of it. A friend of mine has an XJ with a SJ D44 under the front, but I never looked to see how he attached the leaf springs, or what length springs he used.

AX4/5 and AX15 shifters look similar, but are not really interchangeable although they are close enough to "kinda" work. Haven't tried an AX4/5 shifter in an AX15, but it would be tight. Using an AX15 shifter in an AX4 or 5 the vinyl "ball" on the end doesn't quite completely reach into the cup of the mechanism. It's okay in 3rd and 4th, but 1st, 2nd, 5th and reverse it might pop out. If the vinyl piece pops off the end (as happened to me), the metal behind it is too short to reach anything and you're stuck in whatever gear you happen to be in. My clutch hated me having to drive home from the store with just 3rd gear.

I have a Tomtom and like it. My brother has a Garmin and he likes his. I never liked Magellan, but that may be personal and not an objective opinion.

If I could have any JEEP it would be have to be a hemi powered JK-8. But the vehicle I would love to own and could realistically afford would be a bit bigger and 6wd. Problem is I have no place to put it as we're not allowed to park a truck in town.

Jawz JP Customs made mine. I have no photos of my truck with the winch on it, but it is currently sporting an XRC-10. They can customize it any way you like, or build one to your design. If you run a front factory skid plate, the bottom of the bumper continues the angle of the skid plate.

Although I"m by no means an expert, and I have never seen it done, theoretically I see no reason why a double cardan CV joint can't be used with a slip yoke.

To recap from earlier on the page, yes. Stock backspacing is 5.25" Less backspacing will make the wheels stick out more This means that when the wheel travels up in the wheel well due to a bump in the road or whatever, the tire can contact the top of the wheel opening. If this happens with enough force it can damage the fender flare and sheetmetal. If it pulls the flare off, the exposed metal edge can also cut into the tire. That is one of the reasons you will need extended bump stops. I think a 32x11.50 tire is probably a good match for 4.5" lift, but that does not mean you shouldn't extend your bump stops.

NICE! Which one did you find that at?

The sealed Spicer ones are stronger as they are not cross drilled through the body of the joint. Don't know about other brands.

A 6 pack of Mike's hard lemonade with each bottle made to look like a reindeer from my oldest daughter and her husband. A new long sleeved shirt from my younger daughter. Insulated mechanic's gloves from my brother. An 8G memory stick from myself. And from my parents: 250 foot pound 1/2" drive torque wrench chocolate initial bag of "peper noten" (single bite sized spiced cookies) a Bounty candy bar.

Correct. Some of these (my first 87 Comanche) are greasable using a needle fitting (the joints AND the centering ball), but most (all other ones I have(had)) are not.

Loose lug nuts will also click and not squeak or squeal. Happened to me on more than one occasion.

Starter motor.

Wire brush and gasoline. You'r going to have to remove the valve cover and do it from the inside.

Blow by, which is typical of a 4.0. Cleaning out the CCV orifice in the valve cover will help some. Some people have plumbed an oil catch container in between the valve cover vent and the air cleaner to solve the problem. I myself pick up a $1.22 air filter whenever I happen to be at the junk yard and can find one that doesn't look too bad.

Any stock rear axle out of any year Cherokee is the exact same width as a stock Comanche rear axle. Factory wheel backspacing is something like 5.25". Those 8" rims with 3.75" backspacing the inside will be 1.5" further away from the frame, the outside will be 2.5" further out than the outside of a stock 7" wheel.

Doesn't have the stock wheels anymore, probably a puke-goat and turdy-five for like 3 times the new price. I wonder what's hiding under that new coat of paint.

I upgraded to a 3/4" drive breaker bar as I kept breaking my 1/2" drive trying to get hub nuts off. I have a 6' cheater pipe I take with me (it's bent) and a 36" crow bar to stick in the wheel studs (also bent) to keep it from turning. Hub nuts are still 50/50. Impact works miracles on those, but I can't afford a battery powered one. Last two hubs I got I ended up getting the axle shafts as well because of it.

A continuous squeal would most likely be unit bearings or brakes. axle shaft u joints shouldn't squeek ever when going straight, but a ticking sound coming from them means one or more caps have no needle bearings left in them. A chirping sound like a chipmunk makes is usually a u joint or the double cardan cv joint in a driveshaft.

I would rewire the headlights through an relay and inline fuse straight to the battery as well for some extra brightness. The stock headlight setup has a lot of resistance in the circuit.