mvusse

now that was just a nasty tease :waving: Sorry, I had to one up Pete. LOL But FYI, if ya have a full console, Team Cherokee sells em for $9.95 http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... r&catid=95 The last one down is the one I have. That one SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Doesn't hold anything tight... and doesn't hold a large cup at all. Works just fine for me. Maybe it's operator error. The bottom one was in the parts Cherokee. Was really in the way for the parking brake. Want to put it in the Purple People Eater (Wilbur has in-cab winch controls in the way), but can't remember where I put it. Sparkles came with the second one down. Works really well when empty. Put a full cup or can of anything in it and it's only a matter of time before it pops loose and spills all over.

The cab can't be removed. It's unibody, not body on frame.

The only way to tell for sure is to pull an axle shaft and count the splines.

The Limiteds (V8 engine) have CV shafts. The 4.0s usually have u joints. The shafts are fully interchangeable.

Wired up in cab winch controls.

$25 a piece for u bolts is not a good deal. I have my u bolts custom made while I wait locally. 4 bolts, 8 washers and 8 tall nuts usually run ~$27 total. I do like Ruffstuff Specialties spring perches and shock mounts, though. They are what I run.

If the donor axle has the same gear ratio as your current rear axle you can keep yours. If the gear ratio is different you will have to swap the rear axle as well, but unless it comes out of another Comanche you will have to cut off the spring perches and have new ones welded on.

Bought 15' of 16/3 extension cord, one toggle switch with a safety cover and one momentary toggle switch for Wilbur.

Had to check with my girlfriend because we have a wedding to go to later in the day, but we're good for 1 pm.

Looks like MT package to me.

My memory may be faulty, but I'm pretty sure when I changed the black chime out for a blue one I got the sentinel feature in my 87 Pioneer. I know I've never changed that metal box, nor do I even know where it goes.

I did not elongate the holes any more than they already had been from the factory and the 3" diameter u bolts fit through the plate no problem. The 8.25" does have a 1" longer nose, so you *may* have to shorten your driveshaft a bit.

Pretty sure the blue one also has the headlight sentinel feature. Turn off the ignition first, then the lights and the headlights will stay on for about a minute. Turn of the lights first and they go off immediately.

And remember to replace the drier right before sealing up the system and having it evacuated.

There are three different colors, they all interchange, but have different functionality. I think black is the basic one, there are two other colors, one of which I think adds a buzzer for one more function (lights on without key?) and one adds the headlight sentinel. Can't remember which color those two are, though.

Papa Bears in North Canton, OH on June 30th. Did anyone mention a time?

Another 87 through 90 MJ with the same engine and transmission would be the best donor, followed by 87 through 90 Cherokee. The only difference with the Cherokee is that it doesn't have the correct length rear driveshaft. Even so, I would suggest the Cherokee and then pay a drivetrain shop to have your 2wd driveshaft cut down to the length you need.

And the high pinion ones are better than the low pinion ones, but for stock street duty it really doesn't matter that much.

Would u happen to have a picture of it, and where would the wires be coming from? 87 does not have a ballast resistor. Sounds like a timing issue to me (too far advanced) and a broken/disconnected knock sensor could definitely cause that.

Finished getting the power windows in the Purple People Eater working.

Bent inner C on the the axle?

Should. I run V8 ZJ steering on both Sparkles and Wilbur.

The one in my 94 Suburban was mostly mechanical. There was an electrical switch to turn on the 4wd light, and I believe the speedometer output was electrical.

The 241 is basically a stronger (and larger) version of the 231. It has 2wd, neutral, 4-hi and 4-lo. Part time only It is the most common transfer case found behind a 4L60E, used in GM full size SUVs and pickup trucks. Don't know about the smaller ones.

The 231 has more aftermarket support and is supposed to be a bit stronger. There is a hack-n-tap SYE available for the 242, for the 231 you can do a hack-n-tap or you can swap the output shaft with a third party one. Either one *may* survive behind a LS1 only because the Comanche is relatively light, but IMHO you'd be better off with a 241 out of a Chevy.