JeepComanche89

^but i already have a trac bar, meant for a 4 inch lift. So if the trac bar is different, dosent the pitman armbhave to be dropped?

I'm confused as to how it will affect the track bar

Yes i know what you mean by the "tie rod ends" being part of what most would call a draglink. So should i buy a drop pitman and not install it, then get it aligned and see if they need it? The truck isnt on the road yet, so its a little tough to bring it somewhere, just to bring it back.

I just ordered the same cable. I didnt know you had to drop the tranny, or may have to drop it. Hoping thts not the case

With my dads cherokee I tow a 12 ft landscape trailer with commercial equipment in the summer. I have towed another cherokee, and nissan pickup. Also a 12 ft light duty dump trailer a few times. couple times with leaves, another couple with scrap metal. The dump trailer was pretty heavy, made for some interesting trips along with xj brakes

Thanks for all the replies, they mentioned nothing of tierod ends although that does make sense. I assumed if it was a wearable part they would just replace it being as that is what they do. I have a Rusty's adjustable trac bar that came with the lift, so I was assuming that would provide enough adjustment. I was thinking about the ZJ tierod, but someone said that the draglink is the same length as well. So I don't see how this would help me but correct me if I'm wrong. Never noticed it anything was bent or not, I could take a look though. I'm going to a better place for alignment when I'm ready, perhaps I should just bring it to them and see what they think, as some of you guys are running stock steering with the same of bigger lifts?

17 but got my jeep when I was 14

Hi guys, I have a 4.5 inch rustys lift in my MJ. I went to get it aligned the other day and they said "draglink was bad" and I needed to fix it as "it would not work". From this I concluded that the adjustment sleeve dose not have enough threads to compensate for the lift. My question is would a drop pitman arm solve this? If so what size, Rusty's website says a 1.25 drop for a 3 inch lift and up, anyone running this setup?

Cruiser, you mention being able to use a auto trans tps in place of a manual. If I adjust my current manual one, then decide I need to replace it, will I have to readjust it if I replace it with a manual? I'm sorry for all theprobably stupid questions but this is new to me. Also what would cause a surge, a bad TPS, or IAC? And what would should stock idle speed be, The only "performance" mod I have is a pacesetter header lol

Thanks, I think I will go with them based on the added length. I appreciate the link too

I feel really stupid now lol, I blew up the pic and now its obvious what you meant. sorry for that

Sorry I never replied. I may have one set I could sell you if your interested

Do you still need another set?

I didn't realize that it was the same end connector for disk and drum brakes, I don't have any cables in my truck to look at. Edit: I just looked up a replacement comanche parking brake cable, it has a barrel style end versus the open rectangle of the disk brake. :???:. I thought you said you used a stock cable.

Oh gotcha, thanks for the quick response.

Just did basically the same thing to mine as I was having turn signal, as well as other electrical issuses, that cleaner does work good with a wire brush.

thanks for the response. By stock cables do you mean from a Comanche?

Yes, you mentioned doing this before. All the connectors are greased with dielectric grease, and I think I have all grounds cleaned real good then grounded. But is there more then one ground on the dash itself? I have the one on the drivers side mounted to the bottom of the dash, will probably relocate to the body as I read through one of your writeups.

OK so I did the rear disk conversion on my comanche a long time ago. I'm now very close being done with the truck as a whole, and I need to address the parking brakes now. My question is what parking brake cables do I use. I have a MJ d44, used explorer backing plates, grand cherokee parking brake assembly, calipers, rotors, and I also bought parking brake cables. Everything works, but I do not have the parking break shoes adjusted or cables on. So here's my dilemma, I have a 4.5 inch lift, (Rusty's), and Ive hear many things about what cables to use. My grand cherokee cables fit, but the drivers side is pretty tight. My thoughts were getting another passenger cable, and using it on the drivers side. Does this seem like a bad idea? I'm sure someone has this combination on here, so please share what cables your running.

Tach started working today, didnt do anything but clean the relays. I don't know but its working and thats a good thing.

Gross

Got the slider in today, going to install it tommorow.

May have a set if the guy above me doesn't.

Yeah mine wasnt rusted, the least bit. not even any surface rust, pretty strange occurance i think.

So today I go to install my new weather stripping and put my door glass back in my project MJ, as I go to install the rubber that goes into the fixed window track, I realize that I only have half :eek: . The track was missing about halfway down into the door. I have absolutely no explanation for this, it does not appear to have been broken off or cut, just not there. You can where the old spot welds were on the bracket, but thats it. Well anyway I cut have the track out of my donor MJ, and welded it in place. Just thought I would share to see if anything similar happened to someone else. :dunno: