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Ok that makes scenes, yeah the zerk was the easier point to tie to on both, but I see what your saying, as far as the drop pitman arm, I thought you shouldn't do one without the other?

Yeah they definitely dropped the ball, when it gets a few degrees warmer I'm going to center everything and check all my angles

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Thanks I understand it more now, I don't own a angle finder but will get one to see what angles I'm achually at

Yeah Bo, thinking the same. You need the track bar and drag link as close to parallel as possible as in the pic below. You don't have a pic wide enough to see the total relationship. The geometry looks wrong from what I can see due to the dropped Pitman. That's actually a stock pitman arm, but wouldn't a drop pitman arm make them more parallel? As far as the axle side what would make them more parallel, I don't think I could turn the trackbar so the hump is facing up. You need a pic showing the whole drag link and track bar. Then in your favorite editor draw a straight line from the center of the mounting point to the center of the opposite mounting point. As above. Ill take a new one tomorrow when it's light out, sorry if this is a stupid question, but when you say parallel do you mean with track bar and linkage side by side, or above one another? If that's the case a aftermarket trackbar mount should do the trick right?

I found a shop that only builds and works on jeeps somewhat locally, I'm going to see if I can make an appointment this week, I noticed one had more shims then the other which didn't make sense, I'm going to have to take some measurements after work to see if the axle is actually twisted.

Yeah both upper control arms are new and are tight, when I swap my tires around tomorrow ill lower all the psi to 32 and lower more if not improved. I was looking at long arm kits, but would hate to break the bank if its not needed.

Yeah Bo, thinking the same. You need the track bar and drag link as close to parallel as possible as in the pic below. You don't have a pic wide enough to see the total relationship. The geometry looks wrong from what I can see due to the dropped Pitman. That's actually a stock pitman arm, but wouldn't a drop pitman arm make them more parallel? As far as the axle side what would make them more parallel, I don't think I could turn the trackbar so the hump is facing up.

Broken bracket? Where do you see a broken one?

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Well, that's not right. I asked about caster, not camber. Camber is not adjustable on the MJ. He didn't change the caster. It was 9.4 degrees before and 9.4 degrees after. On both sides. His chart says the acceptable range is 5 degrees to 9 degrees. The factory service manual says the acceptable range is 7 degrees to 8 degrees, with 7-1/2 preferred. And removing shims from behind the LCAs would reduce caster, not increase it. Despite all that, a lift often creates death wobble due to not enough caster angle. It's unlikely that too much caster would result in death wobble (although it certainly isn't good for the front driveshaft u-joints). That's why I think you should be looking at tire balance. If the same shop that did this alignment also did the tire balance, I'd suggest finding a different shop. Sorry i must have over looked caster for camber, I'm going too rotate my tires tomorrow morning and go for a drive, the right front has way to many weights on it, well over 6 ounces. Would this also cause it pull to the right? it never pulled before but now it does since ive picked it up from the shop

Ftpiercecracker1- Hey ill post some pictures as soon as I get out of work, hopefully someone may see something I'm missing. Onlyinajeep76- So it looks like I will be needing a new tb, the shop I use is a pretty reputable shop, unfortunately I do not know of off roading shop in my area. The owner said he set the caster really high because it will help reduce the chance of dw and shakes? I'm pretty new to the numbers and what they mean for the front end, so I'm learning as I go. yeah my new track bar did not come with a new bracket. the total cost of it was $135 shipped to my door ( I guess I got the cheaper one ) Eagle- the lower control arms are meant for a 3-3.5 lift, I'm not sure how he got the camber so high, I think he said he removed the shims behind the lower control arm on the frame side. I'm going to see if I can sway my rims and tires with the ones from my dd and see if that helps

I posted a picture of the alignment specs in my first post, I have a spare jks tb ill see if I can get it installed tomorrow and see if there's any difference. Would a trackbar drop bracket on the frame side help the geometry

Thanks for the input, is there anyway to check to see if its my tb causing the wobble? It has less then 5 miles on it, I've had good experience with the iron rock offroad double shear bar in the past. Would I need a whole new trackbar or would I be ale to just purchase the re1660 joint and use it on my current trackbar

Thanks but I've heard that the golf balls eat up the inside of the tires, but I could always use bbs. I thought about adding a second stabilizer, but feel that is going to just mask the problem and or it won't work and I will be out of more funds

Well ive been building this beauty for over a year now, I have alot of blood,sweat, and i stopped keeping track of all the money ive spent. Shes finally at the point now where shes ready to be driven daily, but i cannot get ride of this death wobble. Keep in mind ive never been able to get this jeep over 40 since owning. Ive had two alignments done within the last 2 weeks and nothing i throw at it seems to help. While getting up to some speed as soon as i hit a small bump, or a pebble at that the truck starts to shake and the wobble starts. The wobble is too bad to accelerate through ( too risky to try), and wobbles more while holding on and trying to slow down as fast as possible. specs- 1990 lwb, 4.0, auto, 4x4, approximately 4.5 lift New parts installed since the build started Front Hubs ( auto zone ) Front u joints ( spicer ) Ball Joints ( spicer ) Ruggid ridge Steering Used zj v8 Sway bar ( Poly Bushings ) Sway Bar Links ( Fixed Length ) Stock upper control arms Beefier Fixed Lower Control arms rough County Stabilizer Rough Country Trackbar ( adjustable ) New Cooper 265 75 16 AT3 tires Installed within the last week ( all New ) Durango steering box Steering box stiffener plate M.O.R.E box brace New Steering shaft Everything under the jeep seems to be nice and tight with no play at all. At this point the comanche is turning into a drive way ornament. I'm just about out of funds for it and am stumped Ive been reading through several forums and cannot pin point it. Tires were all speed balanced as well Here are the specs i got from my mechanic Any help would be highly appreciated, Tomorrow ill try and see if i can get a video of the front while it starts to wobble, and will take some pictures of the front end if it will help

Looking to purchase a center console latch ( 1997-2001 xj ) also need a valve cover bracket that holds the cable in place picture of what i need below thanks please send me a pm if you have what i need :)

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Looks good here's a pic of mine with the moabs and 265 cooper a/t's so you have an idea I can take a side shot if wanted, all I have currently is this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Renault-2-1-L-Diesel-engine-for-Jeep-Comanche-diesel-Jeep-Cherokee-diesel-/271417693638?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f31c155c6&vxp=mtr Looks like it was the engine that was included with the sale of the diesel comanche that sold on eBay a month or so back.

I say fix it up, truck looks too clean and well kept to give up on her, for $4k I think you could easily get a good lift and some fresh paint, even swap out the rear axle if it is bent. Prices vary on location on paint prices and parts, but here in ny I could get a pretty good paint job for around $1000 with out major body work. For the rear axle anywhere from $200-$500. And the lift is all based on the brands and components you choose. The most expensive purchase will probably be new rims and rubber Just my 2cents

Been debating over the last couple months, i really like the moss pearl green PJN paint code, and the new wrangler dune color i will pull the trigger on one of those when its gets nicer out and i can try some body work

Some pictures of a few things ive been working on this week Old and new steering wheel, need to take a picture of it installed Fuel pressure gaauge Some damage from the battery fire Leveled out front end

thanks and i hear ya, i always have time to order the parts and make a pile, but never enough time to do the installs

Well the parts pile is starting to get big, just need time to install all the parts. So far I got my military battery terminal covers, new universal battery, steering shaft, should have my gear box, box brace and speedo gear today. Also bought some 70th anniversary jeep patriot seat covers and am in the process fitting them. Passengers side is done pics to come tonight