GonzoTheGreat

A couple other small things I've been working on: I did a wiper motor refresh, with new linkage bushings and ground wire I got a lot of gas fumes with a full tank, so I spent some time with the fuel system. The tank had a couple pinholes, so I put in a new tank, with new breathers and hoses. I have no idea how my fuel pump was grounding. Mice had chewed the wire off. It must have been chassis grounding through the lock ring! The pump and sender were still working fine

I’ve heard this argument. Can you explain? Is the risk that it would lock up the rear too easily on an MJ with an empty bed, being proportioned for the heavier rear body of an XJ?

Thanks! Here’s the Napa part number. It’s also available on rock auto and a couple other places on the internet. I think the same bushing was used in quite a few different transmissions, so it seems readily available.

Rear drums from 84 to 01. There was never a rear disc option. I've been running an XJ proportioning valve in the daily with no issues.

It's been a minute. I haven't been around much, but this week I finally replaced the leaky tranny seal. It turns out the brass/steel bushing that centers the torque converter in the fluid pump had spun loose and wedged itself into the fluid pump seal. It also turns out, that just replacing the seal and leaving the whipped out bushing is not ok, as I had read on Jeepforum... It also also turns out that a thin, little bushing like that is a real PITA to drive in properly, but all's well that ends well. This reminds me why I typically drive vehicles without a slushbox behind the engine. I'm repeatedly tempted to do a 5 speed swap, But the plan is still to keep this one generally in stock configuration...

Well the pic got real grainy, but it’s page 61 of the electrical manual. There’s a little troubleshooting info in there too. Here’s a link to download the manual:

That happened to me when the dimmer rheostat in the headlight switch snapped and shorted to the dash frame. are you blowing the 10a park light fuse, or the 5a instrument light fuse? if it’s the 10a, start looking for a short in your headlight switch, or directionals and rear lights. if its the 5a, something in the dash lighting is probably shorted.

I cut off the little nubs so I could get the wire wheel in easier to clean the rust, but it doesn’t have to be done for clearance. There’s at least twice the space needed around them.

Pretty sure @kastein had something like this, but I think his was a little classier.

Thanks for drawing this stuff up and publishing it. It’s good see these bits and bobs digitally preserved.

Wow! That’s super cool! I’m jealous! I’m glad to see it’s not alone in the world. I knew somebody on here would know something about it.

Ok. That’s a slightly deceiving title, but technically true. It’s not stock MJ ride height… My buddy found this toy from when he was a kid. If I hadn’t gotten into Comanches, he never would have known what it is. There’s no mistaking the body lines, grill, and cab vents. I can’t find any info about it on the internet. The only branding is “1993 Toy state” on the swing arm. Has anyone seen one of these before?

Okay. If anyone else ever needs this it’s this part and it cross references with this one from Napa.

After a recent engine swap, my aw4 developed a significant leak from the bell housing. The torque converter had stuck in the pilot bushing when I split the engine/trans, so I assumed I had screwed up the seal when I put the torque converter back in. I took the tranny down today, and the seal appeared ok at a glance, but then there seemed to be a piece of metal in it. It turns out there’s a thin bushing in there that had worked it’s way up into the seal. I tapped the bushing back into place, but there is no reason it won’t walk out again. I would like to install a new bushing, but I’m having a hard time finding a part number for it. It doesn’t seem to be listed in this manual, or anywhere else I’ve looked. Has anyone replaced this bushing, or know anything about it?

Also there’s this:

It’s probably corrosion in the turn signal socket. You can try to clean the contacts, but you might be better off finding the later style turn signal sockets and splicing them in. That’s what I did, and I’ve had no problems since. I'm not sure what year it changed, maybe ‘91, but the later ones are sealed better from the weather.

I was in the same boat. The PO had mixed and matched all kinds of random screws. I picked up a couple little bags of these from Napa off the trim clip rack, and used them for the top of the lower dash, the dash bezel, and switch plates, clock, etc. They look factory.

This past week I cleaned the engine bay while I had it empty, and gave it a quick spritz with gray engine enamel. Then I got the drivetrain put back in and gave everything a good cleaning as I put it all together. I had gone with a 4.0 radiator with an electric fan last year when the original rad was leaking. I think it cleans up the engine bay quite a bit. It’s weird how much more space there is with a 2.5 under the hood. I also tried out the Detroit muscle splash shields. The engine bay one is definitely made for a 4.0, and the 2.5 one must have been quite a bit different. It fit ok, but I wouldn’t do it again with a 2.5. The wheel well shields were perfect though. My original fender liners have slowly been shedding pieces, so I sprayed the wheel wells with fluid film, and covered them up with repop rock auto liners and the Detroit muscle splash shields. I also spent quite a bit of time on the brakes. Someone had bypassed the load sensing valve at some point by tee-ing the rear lines together. The inner workings of that system have always mystified me, and since there is no valve anymore, I swapped the distribution block for an XJ junkyard unit, and a single line to the rear. The rubber lines were disintegrating, and the fittings were in rough shape. I also had done pads/rotors/bearings 2 months ago, and found the passenger side caliper was stiff and dragging. So I did all new CuNi lines from the master cylinder down, new rubber lines, and new calipers, getting rid of two compression fitting from a PO in the process. Thankfully the fittings broke loose on the wheel cylinders. Shoes, drums, and hardware were all in great shape. I put in new bleeders in the rear, because one was starting to round off. I bled everything this evening, and I was finally able to move and stop under the truck’s own power! No major issues at first. I had to tighten a coolant hose clamp, and the steering wheel is a little off, but I swapped in a power steering box from a different truck so I’ll adjust the drag link later. Brakes worked, power steering worked, engine came up to temp no problem, I drove around the block just fine. Everything was going suspiciously well. …and then I noticed a steady dribble of ATF coming from the bell housing It was dark and cold out, so I’m gonna leave that one for tomorrow. I’ll probably have to drop the tranny and do an input seal. The torque converter was stuck in the flex plate when I split the tranny from the old engine, so it did come off the input shaft, but then I gently slid it back on, and that was that. Apparently that was enough to f up the seal.

Thanks! I thought of your dad when I found this one because it’s another Grampa special. I got to see yours in person many years ago when I sold him a sport bar. I got the interior put back together last night. I sound deadened the cab before putting in an ACC carpet. The original vinyl floor was all cracked up. I wasn’t super thrilled with the carpet fitment, but hopefully over time it will settle in. the bench fabric cleaned up nice with some power washing. I also installed the full gauge cluster. I had to cut out the tach to allow for the shift indicator. Probably the most intimidating project for me so far was the headliner. it had been reskinned before with what looks like a blanket. Lo and behold, I screwed it up. It looks a lot better in the pic than in person, and it’s still better than what was in there, so I think I’ll live with it until the next SMS group buy. Oh I also added an REM II which I’m super stoked about.

Two holes over the intake side had split the long way and the cracks traveled 3-4 inches. It was beyond saving. I’m not sure how it happened, since the bolts have shoulders which prevents over-tightening. The aftermarket one is really flimsy, but I couldn’t justify paying for an aluminum one. I still have the Chrysler one that’s on the original cracked engine. If I have any leaks with the aftermarket, I may end up swapping them in the future.

Unfortunately, it was shattered around two of the bolt holes when I got it.

Everything got cleaned up, with POR15 inside and out, then seam sealer and a couple coats of spray paint on the inside, and rubberized undercoating underneath. I used Key Parts pans and frame caps. They fit very nicely and required only minimal modifications. The pans were pretty close to the original, but as I understand it, they are actually for an XJ. The frame caps were perfect duplicates of the originals. The windshield frame cleaned up nicely, and I purchased a late model XJ rubber gasket that the windshield guys put in when they did the glass. It came out great!

I had some free time, so two weeks ago, I pulled almost everything out of the cab and engine bay. The windshield frame was super crusty, and there were several small holes. The floors, honestly weren’t as bad as I expected. The inside of the frame rails was almost spotless. Nevertheless, it took me a couple days to hack out and replace all the nasty stuff. only a little hole under the battery tray under the hood. Otherwise no serious rot in the engine bay.

I hadn’t, but I just started. Pretty cool stuff! thanks! It was nice to see so much sheet metal intact. I spent some time spiffying up the new engine over the past month. I had only planned on replacing a few wear items, but it kind of snowballed into a bit more. I put in new oil and water temp senders for a full gauge cluster swap, as well as replacing/cleaning up basically everything external on the engine. Plus the exhaust header because why not.

The gray loctite bought me a few months while I prepped a new-to-me engine. Thanks to @Kkilmer87 I should have the new one running tomorrow. I’ll post updates. So I guess it’s sorta true when they say JB Weld will fix cracked engines