robfg67

What would be the benefit of upgrading from my stock rear axle to this Dana 44 Rear Axle? The gear ratio is the same as my front, so I wouldn’t need to swap-out my front axle. I realize the stock rear axle also has the same 3.07 gears, so I won’t benefit from any engine performance. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... ink:top:us

Sorry to hear that jage, I didn't have a problem with it.

Have any of you guys used this online paint supplier? It looks like they have the exact factory colors-but VERY expensive. www.paintscratch.com

Here is the Craigslist post if anyone is interested: http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/pts/632171788.html The owner is a nice guy!

I just noticed this thread!!! Pete, I have my hat. Thanks

I like the red stripes!

Jtdesigns, I agree that it will be difficult to find a rust-free bed but, I just started looking and would make a week-end trip out of driving a very long distance to find one. These two write-up’s on rust damage swayed me to avoid that bed. http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suvs- ... -rust.html http://www.helium.com/items/685831-repa ... hout-doubt jtdesigns, thanks for your follow-up. A local auto body supply store should be a great source of high-quality materials.

No, I did not buy the bed. Let me know if you want it. I'll send you his contact info.

Can you guys tell me what brands and where you buy your materials? Unless a rust-free bed shows-up somewhere, I guess I'll try and repair the damage myself.

I hear yeah, brigarpeon. It might not be "inside rust" and a good prep job could stop it, but it might not either. I would rather pay more or drive further south to find a clean bed. One has to come available eventually.

I googled "bubble rust repair" and it wasn't good. Plain & simple-this type of rust damage should be cut out and/or replaced altogether. This bed isn't even worth $100. I may need to drive about 6 hours south to get a rust-free bed. ...the search continues.

Pingpong, can't I just sand down the "bubbling" rust? Do you think that a hole will result?

I found a 6' bed that the owner is selling to me for $100. The owner is removing the bed himself and is including the tailgate & tail lights. It's also the same color as my truck. However, it does have some rust and a dent. The owner told me that the rust does not go all the way through and he sent me these pics. The darker pics are of the backside of the panel so I can see that the rust does not go all the way through. The truck is 3.5 hours away so I can't easily just drive by to inspect. Can those of you who have experience with rust damage, tell me what you think of this bed? Do you think I should be able to sand down, prime, and repaint? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Eagle, I'm looking for a clean 6' bed. I was close to picking up a whole truck in Johnston, RI this past week for $425. The bed was nice and I would have parted-out the rest of the truck. I already have a truck that I'm happy with-just need a better bed. Do you know of one? I'm willing to drive 3-4 hours for it.

Not one vote for putting the bed inside the truck at an angle! I'll do the rail to rail with truck cap clamps. I also thought about driving sheet metal screws into the rails. I don't care about the holes in the current bed and the holes in the newer bed will be covered with by the bed liner.

I finally found a clean replacement bed for my rusty one. The guy is about a 3.5 hour drive-all highway. I plan on picking it up with my Jeep. Should I flip it upside down-rail to rail and strap it down or should I place it in at an angle? Has anyone done this before?

jtdesigns, why did you remove all of thise parts? I know that NC is a heck of a lot warmer than up here in the northeast, but wouldn't you need all that crap for the engine to idle correctly? As far as what part # 8 does-I'm afraid we might need to wait for Eagle or PeteM to clue us in!

I can't even think about the Pats. For me, that loss was tougher than the ball through Buckner's legs in '86.

hornbrod, I appreciate your help. I just wasn't sure if it works. As long as it works, I'll use it. Thanks for your help.

Have you used this part before? It looks like that cheapo slinky type of material. The factory hose has built-in clamps on either end and a black plastic over-tube that snaps into the air cleaner box.

This part on my ’89 Jeep MJ with the 4.0 engine is beyond repair. The Hot Air Tube that attaches from the side of the Air Cleaner to the engine-just under the manifold is listed for $38.13 on the Mopar Genuine Parts website. It's displayed as part # 2 in the image below. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... eid=214583 It is listed as Part # 5300 4839 in the factory manual and is superseded by Part # 5014915AA Is there a cheaper source for this part? Keep in mind that it has hot engine gasses running through it.

I asked for pictures and he said that he didn't have a digital camera. Perhaps I should ask him to put a tape measure on it.

I absolutly agree, this owner could be a complete idiot. However, the truck for sale is in upstate NY and I'm in the greator Boston area. I will not drive that distance without KNOWING that the truck has a six foot bed. http://albany.craigslist.org/car/627367737.html

My center console has the little ashtry in the rear-center and two ducts in the rear on either side. That is because mine came from a 4-door Cherokee. I don't have the other part your talking about.

Thanks, jeeptruck86. That's what I thought. I need a 6' bed so hopefully he is wrong about the year.