robfg67

Pete, what specifically do you mean by gears? Are you recommending a rear axle upgrade to the Dana 44?

Thanks guys. I'm waiting for jackel18 to get back to me on his liner.

I figured something was missing. I'll be at the old boneyard tomorrow to strip one out of a Cherokee. WahooSteeler, I love your picture-the first Smokey movie is a classic!

Can anyone help me to get the green ring around the Cigar Lighter to work? As you can see from the images below, there is a wire with a light socket receptacle in the Cigar Lighter assembly. The light socket receptacle is hot when the dash lights are on and my Cigar lighter is functioning. I removed the good 1181 bulb from the back of the clock assembly and inserted it into the light socket receptacle and it does not light-up. I also added an image of a similar styled bulb. It has a flat bottom with a metal contact on either side. What do I need to do to make this work? Image Not Found

I lent my truck to my son last Friday night because the weather fools predicted snow. While on the highway, my son "claims" the bed liner flew out the back. I called the local DPW yards to see if anything was picked-up and they had nothing. So here is my question. Do manufacturers still offer bed liners for the Comanche? Will a liner from a Ford Ranger or Chevy S-10 fit or are they custom to the Comanche. I have the short bed. Thanks

I plan on not filling the tank more than about a quarter of a tank for the next few weeks. At some point in April, I plan on taking my Jeep off the road to repair the rust spots and repaint the entire truck.

Ok, some needs to ask! Mattpioneer, is English your first language?

This sounds like a 2-man operation. One guy to fill the tank and another under the truck with goggles. Now, I just need to find a sucker, er I mean volunteer.

I just took a bunch of pics and this is the best one. There is definitely some rust deterioration on the on the flange at about 4 o’clock. The clamps look good and the inlet tubes are rusty but also look intact. I have about 3 gallons of gas in the tank now. If I remove the clamps (to wire brush the inlet tubes and the immediate general area) would fuel leak or pour out?

Self doubt is know creeping in Eagle. I am going to take another look right now.

Here is the latest: I dropped a quilt down and grabbed a strong flashlight to inspect and found no obvious cracks, splits, holes or anything else that would cause fuel to leak. I was able to inspect all four sides of the tank all the way to the top and about 80% of the fuel delivery tubes. Unless you are a midget and/or a contortionist, it is physically impossible to visually inspect the top of the tank and the fuel tube connection and sending unit assembly/connection. Fortunately, there is no skid plate to deal with either, so dropping the tank should be fairly easy. I found a guy on eBay who sells the correct tank (for my Jeep) for $180 plus shipping, so I’ll go to him if necessary. Thanks to all for your help.

Guys, just to be clear, when you say to check the: "hard gas lines go into the fuel pump mounting flange apparently is a vulnerable spot. The lines vibrate or something, and develop a hairline crack where they go through the flange. That's where the leak is often found." Are you referring to the lines from fuel filler assembly on the right side of the image below or at the sending unit side on the left?

Eagle, do you know if the hard gas lines that goes into the fuel pump mounting flange can be inspected and replaced without removing the tank? Is there enough space?

Thanks chicofuentes0224! I will need to email that eBay seller to see if he has a tank for the Jeep I have-the 4.0 six with fuel injection, because that auction item is for an '86 with the carbureted engine.

So I got home from work today and 5 gallons of fuel dumped-out from under the tank. I guess its time to replace it. I have a 1989 short bed with the 18 gallon tank. Can you guys suggest the best/cheapest place to buy a replacement tank? Thanks

I didn't want to overfill. The directions on the MMO bottle recommend that you substitute a quart of MMO for a quart of oil at next oil change.

I drained about a quart of oil from the pan & addded about 20 ounces of MMO on Wednesday night (1/16/08). I'll update this post with any changes.

I will definitely get the seal changed at some point-I just wanted to know if anyone had any experiences, good or bad with MMO. If it doesn't cause any harm and can possibly fix it, if only temporarily, that will be good enough for now.

Yes I do. I'll assume that using a torque wrench on this project is important.

I guess my next purchase will be a repair manual!

Thanks Brent, I can handle oil pan removal-it was the transmission that had me worried. I understand that the MMO can swell some types of gaskets. I wasn't sure if it could do anything with a rubber seal.

After degreasing the lower half of engine & transmission (to locate the source of the leak) I was able to identify the main rear seal as the source of an intermittent oil leak from my 1989 Comanche (with the I6 engine). I know the correct way of replacing the seal is to first remove the starter, transmission, and possibly oil pan to access the seal. I have never done this before and it is probably above my automotive skill level. Could I try Marvel Mystery Oil? Has anyone used this before? A mechanic friend of mine said it can be used to seal leaks, but he has seen it also seal the heater core in some vehicles. A half a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil sounds like a reasonable attempt. What do you guys think? Here is a picture of my baby:

I will look more closely at the vacum lines and try the battery disconnect exercise tomorrow. I agree that letting the idle speed screw out seems like more of a "work around". However, with that said, I drove to work this morning (about 7 miles) and she was purring like a kitten at idle-about 600 RPM.

I adjusted the idle speed screw on the throttle body. You would think that the instructions in the FSM or on the new IAC might mention this step!

No, the throttle cable is fine.