robfg67

So I installed a new Idle Air Control Valve from Advanced Auto Parts tonight and nothing changed. The engine still idles at 2,250 RPM’s. This is so frustrating-all I did was spray the inside of the throttle body (with TB spray cleaner) and clean the IAC. Can anyone suggest what to look at/fix/replace next?

205K with 83K on rebuilt motor. I have dropped a ton of cash into her but like said earlier (in this thread), still significantly cheaper than buying new every 5 years or so-and a heck of a lot more fun!

Idle Speed Stepper Motor - Idle Air Control Valve - Idle Air Controller / I.A.C. I decided to clean the throttle body on my ’89 I-6 engine tonight. During this exercise, I removed the IAC and noticed there was some grime build-up on the pintle. The can of TB spray would not clean all the grime off, so I rubbed the pintle with a clean cloth (to remove the grime) and reinstalled. The Renix manual: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... manual.pdf (on page 67) clearly states in the CAUTION paragraph, that if the pintle is removed too far from the motor it will break. Well, I must have done just that because now the engine is idling at 2,250 RPM’s. So here is my question, does anyone know of a way to fix this controller or will I be going to Auto Zone in the morning?

comancheman, sorry to hear about your problem. Fluid has been leaking from my transmission/transfer case area for the past 3 weeks. I have just been motivated to diagnose/fix ASAP!

benevolentelephant, I just did this swap this past weekend. I picked-up the 3-spoke leather-wrapped Cherokee wheel at the local bone yard for $21. The horn mechanism is not identical between the two wheels but the retrofit is easy. Make sure you get all the little parts under the center cap and make note of how they go together-you may want to snap a couple pictures for reference during the install.

I spoke to the Jeep Service Manager today and he confirmed that the refusal is tied strictly to the mileage. If this had been a safety issue-and not a emission problem, it would have been covered. So I asked if I could at least get the O2 sensor (for free), and I will swap it out myself and he told me "he could not do that". The parts guy quoted me $87 for the sensor. The Jeep always smells funny (carbon and other emission-type gasses), my highway mileage is only 16.5 MPG, so hopefully the new sensor might improve these.

http://jalopnik.com/339332/the-1987-jee ... -and-cheap

Ok, this story has more twists & turns than a can of worms! The Jeep dealer called me back to say that their representative at Chrysler told him that the recall had expired for my vehicle. This is an emissions recall and as such is only good for 8 years or 80K miles. I guess it's time for the PB Blaster after all!

Well, I just made an appointment for this Saturday at the Jeep dealership to have the O2 sensor replaced for free. As the service person pulled-up the vehicle info, he responded in astonishment, "boy, I haven't seen a Comanche in a while." Absolutely priceless!

...and this is not what Chysler needs right now-a bunch of Comanche owners getting "free parts & labor" for trucks almost 20 years old!

I plugged my VIN into the Jeep recall page and it came back with a status of incomplete. Does that mean that the 02 sensor has NOT been replaced? Here is a screen shot of the VIN search result:

Thanks-I will spray several times over the next couple days before I attempt to remove. Hopefully this will give me a couple extra MPG's!

Can you guys tell me if the entire shaft needs to be removed? If so, do I grasp it at the top ring or the lower ring with the wrench?

I have an 89 Comanche with the I6 engine. I want to replace the oxygen sensor but it looks a little intimidating. There is a stone shield surrounding the sensor. Does this need to be removed first or will a socket fit inside the shield? Does anyone have a good step-by-step removal write-up?

Ok-I found one on the right side of the heater control, but the owners manual states there are 2 lights and I can't find the 2cd one.

The heater control panel (without AC) bulbs need to be replaced and I can't figure out how to do this. Yes, I backed-out the 4 screws that hold the assembly in place, but I can't see where to access the 2 bulbs. Can anyone share the replacement steps?

If I were to destroy the connector head during the disassembly & removal, would I still have the high fan setting & heat? It is cold up here in the northeast. If so, I will purchase the splice-in connector at the same time to be on the safe side. Also, are you or have you ever been a Jeep mechanic/engineer-your knowledge of the Comanche is insane!

Thanks again hornbrod! I'm pretty sure it's just from age. There are no signs of leakage inside the housing. By the look of this piece, I'm lucky to have heat at all!

Ok, I took the 2 screws off the black roundish cover just below the dash on the passenger side and there was an electrical connector attached to a cardboard-type cover that also had 2 screws holding it in place. As you can see from the pictures below, the connectors are fully rusted and one of them is actually rusted into two pieces. Is this the blower resistor? Do you think I can file/de-rust this part in order to get it to work again?

I agree hornbrod-replacing the switch seamed so obvious and it was only $12. Does anyone know how much the blower motor resistor costs? Is this a part that can be purchased from NAPA or is it a dealer part only?

My ’89 Comanche heat fan control switch operates in the high position only. I picked-up a new switch control at the local dealership today, installed it, and there was no difference. The 4-wire plug has no visual problems. Not sure if this matters, but the control assembly does NOT have AC. What would be the next troubleshooting steps?

Thanks for the input-I am definitely a novice when it comes to these types of repairs. I will clean the old oil off the bottom of the engine and transmission first. This should help me more easily identify the source of the leak. This is an odd leak because it does not leak every day. I can go 3 days between leaking and then it will drop 2-3 ounces on the garage floor.

Yeah Dan, I've got 204K on my ba10 and she is still working fine! Knocking on wood as I write this.

My only question-how do you NOT replace that transmission on this truck! http://www.jpmagazine.com/featuredvehic ... index.html

Is a nail punch the same thing asa wood punch? Where did you buy your seal?