CWLONGSHOT

Tanks MAN!!! Its near the top of my list of todo's for the warmer weather!!! TOP of the list is my lift, I have assembled a series of parts to get an additional 3" of lift. Total inches should be about 5 by the time I'm done. I have a full gauge package, new clock, switch pannels, bucket seats from a 2DR XJ mounted to MJ bracketry, XJ center console as well and a head liner!! It will be like having a brandy interior!!! All thats left is a carpet....Know anyone offering Fact or at least factory style MJ carpet?? Then its a paint job, and run it into the ground!!!! Thanks again!! CW

You will be GLAD you went the extra distance, the first time you have a panic stop!! GOOD JOB!! CW

Did you ever get this figured out? I will likely be doing this same thing!! I have a XJ I bought for parts and it has these same power mirrors, I also snagged the bucket seats and senter console for the MJ. I would like to install the power mirrors and make it a package!!! Anything you can offer would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Thanks, CW

Thanks guys!! I got the springs from ELIAS 4WD center. He is a BDS distributor. Ask for LOU, he is a great guy and will hook you up!! CW

Mine did the same last summer!! I ended up haveing to insatll the COMPLETE line from the front to the back....I tried or rather looked into just splicing in, but the more I looked the more bad line I found. You don't want to skimp here!!! REPLACE THE ENTIRE LINE!!! I chose to remove the idiotic rear proportioning valve and installed a XJ front prop valve in place of the MJ's distribution block. The rear valve was WAY rusted and I was unable to get any of the lines to come out. My brakes are better than ever!! Good luck, CW

Why not just do a quick and easy buget boost? Pick up some 2" spacers and longer shackles. It'll look better and fit better too!! As stated, most MJ's can run 31"s OK some not as well. It sll depends on spring sag and if ou articulate too much. Likely it will contact the lower control arms near full lock. CW

I have +1.75 XJ shackles on the factory springs. Out front I have a set of the +3" Rustys coils and like the look front to back. Because of rear spring sag and unlevelness of the factory packs (Is that a word?) I will soon be adding a +3 BDS leaf springs to the rear of my MJ. (I'm keeping it SU) I purchased a set of R.E. adj lower control arms and ACOS spacers to adjust the height and caster up front. FYI, I already have a adj track bar on the vehicle as well as longer shocks & Brake lines all around. Here is my question, whats a good starting point for the front lower control arm legnths. Figuring the front will be somewhere close to 5" of lift to level out the rear. Thanks, CW

Exactly...??? What are you asking us? You could have a D44 in the rear but you most likely have a HP D30 up front. There is no factory solid axle D35 set up for use as a front end. Both Dodge and Ford have used the D35's center section in their front IFS set-ups. What do you want to know about the cross member???

There is a bunch of guys here with lots of stuff added to thier MJ's! Post up where you want to go with your build-up and we can better help spend your money!!! :P CW

It was a 3 or maybe a 3.5" BDS lift. I ordered the AAL's off EBAY from a guy who does alot with Roughcountry. don't know if I will even need them....I'll add them to the JCW spring packs, If I ever get them!!! Still waitin' for that call from JCW! (That was a full spring pack, set, for the rear BTW.) If they screw me, I am just going with RE +2 full spring packs. CW

THANKS GUYS!! That makes my score 487 on a 30 degree ramp...not too shabby. Yea there is another Comanche there, Its a young member and its his daily driver, so he has done nothing to it. He is currently building a samuri. I ordered them from JC Whitney for lass than 100 bucks. But I am really beginning to regret it, as they have been on order for over one month and they tell me I cannot cancel the order....yea right I can't!!! I called saturday and someone is going to get ahold of me by Wednesday with an answer of what is going on. I found Rubicon Express also hase these although I did not price them. A local Spring mfg wanted $385 for a factory set and $440 for a 2" lifted pack. That was only a guess on the lift as they go by weights and i did not know what stock was, so I had no point of referance to go by. In hind sight, I really wish I had just bought the BDS lift I was looking at. It was 500+ and it included new front and rear springs as well as other extras. All i would have needed was shocks and I would not be in this perdicument!!! CW

I got a chance to try my MJ on a 30 degree RTI ramp last week. I happy and suprised with how it did. I made it 58" up ! I do not remember the calculation to get the score. (HELP) I do know it is a long bed so the WB is 119". Does it make a difference with the ramp being 30 degrees VS 20 degrees? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Its got a 3" lift. RUSTY's front spring and a 1.75+ XJ shackle. My rear shocks are stock legnth so that did not do me any good. The rear springs are shot, the drivers side sags 1.5" lower than pass side. I have a set of new 2" lifted springs on order. I will install with the same extended shackle, 3" extended Rancho 5000's shocks. I think this will have the rear way higher than the front, so I will add a spacer to the front to balance it out.

Put it up on a set of ramps in 4WD. take the actuater off the axle and look at the position of the sleeve. It will be connecting the inner and outer axles. CW

Patrick, This brake fade could be mostly your pads. I did what I did for a couple reasons, my lines where shot, all the way to the T case. I couldnt see splicing in so I ran completely new lines. I needed a longer rear hose anyway and the complicated bellding method riquired for the rear valve was ...well stupid. The rear brakes just sucked!! I was moving some furnature for my sister just before I did the rear brakes. She moved to a very hilly portion of the state. I had a great difficulty stoping on hills and by a couple trips my front brakes where glazed so badly I almost couldnt stop. I was supposed to get better brakes with the extra weight in the rear, did'nt happen. I had to replace my front pads when the move was done, this should never have happened. Tghats when I started really looking at the rear braking system. I do not proclaim to be smarter than the engineers who designed the system, but I gotta say, there must be a reason why no one else uses it!! Everything is fine now, I have moved my bed full of mulch twice now. Quite a heavy load, more than I should have at one time. based on the 'sag" of the rear springs whan full. NO PROBLEMS!!! I spoke with eagle acouple times before and during the rebuild. He is a very knoledgeable individule. Good luck, CW

BDS makes a GREAT lift kit, with a MUCH better reputation than RUSTY's!! http://www.windrockoffroad.com/PART/BDS.51JK095/V/ CW

This is exactly what I have done as well. It works perfectly and the brakes are excellent. If I brake normally, the Jeeps stops as expected. If I stand on the brakes, the back will lock up first. I ran new line complete front to back. I used a 96 Dakota hose for the extra legnth it offered. CW

Happy to help, duplication is the highest form of flatery!! :D :D I have a buddie with a 4x4 shop up your way. Drop him a line if you need any fab prjects. He is a good guy, his name is Bob, tell him Brian sent you!! www.oceanstateoffroad.com

Finished the front last night!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I also just finished the diamond plate on the sides. No pics yet.... CW

Sounds nice!! I just put on a cherry bomb for short term fix. Plan on a catback DYNOMAX Ultraflo in spring. I have this on my TJ and LOVE the sound!! Here is my sound: http://www.jonfund.com/albums/album54/MJ_Exhaust.mov http://www.jonfund.com/albums/album54/New_exhaust.mov CW

My rockers are gone as well. I have seen a couple GREAT writeups on how to build rock rails where the rockers where. IE inside or flush with the body. This is what I will do. As for the bed, I stripped all the rust off, coated it with a product called RUST BULLET, then a good coat of undercoating. For the outside I used diamond plate, siliconed and riveted to the body panels. Image Not Found CW

As far as I know its the same as the D44...2.75" I just bought a set of D35 (No "C" clip) Ubolts for my new spring swap and they where 2.62". I know the D44 is a bit bigger. CW

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I am working on the front now. I'll post up with piocs when finished!! CW

Like all yours its an ongoing project! September 2005, DAY ONE: October 2005, I washed and waxed it, took about 50lbs of mud from the undercarage, added some new tars and rims and a 3" lift and here it is: March 2006, I addd some new buckets and full gauges. May 2006, A set of swampers and a new to me set of 10 spokes w/ 1 1/4" wheel spacers to keep them out of the LCA's. ACOS spacers up front on top of 3" coils than RUSTYS 4" leafs out back. Here is the front done, here is the whole thing:: June 2006, Ditched the spacers..too scary. Swampers reserved for another project. Got a new (to me) set of BFG 31's. September 2006, I added a bit more lift, chopped the fenders and moved the flairs up. Eliminated the rust around the rear flairs and added a set of 33 X 10.5 X 15 BFG MT's!! Then I built a swing out for the tail gate. Feb/March 2007: HUGE changes!!! D44 rear, W/ECTED, 4:56 gears both axles. JCR 1TON steering, COMPLETELY rebuilt front &rear axles. Alloy axle shafts in the 44. 33X10.5X15 BFG AT's on AR ATLAS alloy rims. Relocated my rear shocks for more flex!! Oh yea...and some nutz. May 2007: DROP DRACKETS & BILSTEIN 5100's!! More to come!!!! CW