CWLONGSHOT

Yea, I know where you are...I get up there with some regularity. I like to run "MA-BELL" when ever I get the chance!! :chillin: ..... Thanks for the invite!! CW

I say make them yourself!! A hole saw, a couple extra hole saws, some SCH40 Poop pipe, couple pieces of 3" angle Iron, sawsall/hacksaw and a welder and your in!!! I made mine in one night after work. Satrted about 17:00 frished by midnight. Here is all the pieces I pre made to fit... Grind the frame clean... Weld on the pieces!!! Paint it and go play in the rocks!!! CW

Sorry for above..... Why the heck doses this board allow posting before logging in!?!? I upgraded my securities and now all my links are deleted. I have to re-log in everywhere and I forget....CRS setting in. :eek: :eek: CW

Basically YES... After I chopped, I coated everything with a fresh coat of paint, inside and out. While I had it appart and could now reach the inners of my bed. I scrapped that too.....MIGHTY rusty in there!!! I sprayed that with a couple cans of commertial rust converter. Then coated everything with a couple more cans of ruberized undercoating. I stilll have a couple pea sized holes to finish repairing. Then its a paint job for the ol girl!! When I saw how dadly rusted it was inside/under the rear wheel wells. I got worried, As to remove it all, looked like I would seriously effect the integrety of the bed. But it didnt turn out as a major problem. I added some strap steel in five places on each wheel well. I attached it from the bolts that hold the flairs to the pinch seam inside the wheel well. CW

CW

Its always best and usually recommended to wire directly to battery. (With fuse) Its draws VERY little and usually will not cause any problems even if left on overnight. Usually this will eliminate any engine noise, but if necessary you could use a choke. (Filter) I have mine on all day of a wheeling trip. Thats with the Jeep started and turned off numerous times. Its never been an issue. Be careful when running the cable for the antenna, try not to coil it up run the length you need only. be sure the shielding dosen't contact the center conductor and that the center conductor is COMPLETELY SHIELDED form the body!!! The base should be well grounded and most work best if mounted on a flat metal surface as this is the negative side and helps greatly with reception. Its called the ground plane. You could use a marine antenna, these do not have.need a ground plane as many boats are fiberglass and it dosen't work as a ground plane. Lastly set your SWR for either the center channel20 or so or if really bad the channel you will primarily use and know the farther from 20 you get the worse the SWR will be limiting your range. As for the actual antenna...the 102" whip is best but the shorter loaded sitcks are more practal. I have actually seen rigs not allowed on trail because of the 102" whips. they can be dangerous to bystanders on the trail. If you do use one, keep it tied as Pete shows ehile on the trail. Good luck, CW

GOOD TO KNOW!! I am beginning to look for a rear axle upgrade for my MJ and keep going back to the 8.8. Was worried about the OA legnth and contact with the leafs. I am running 3.75" of BS and 10.5" wide tars. I won't run spacers on the street, don't think I will really need to anyhow. Just casually looking as I could get one tomarrow if needed. Hopefully patients will net me one for cheaper....SO when I do get it I'll be getting the leafs from it as well... Future projects you know... :chillin: :brows: :brows: CW

:eek: Try about 175 lbs. :roll: I was going to say... When I bought mine, I put mine in the bed of my F250 myself. It certanly was heavy but I am sure I couldn't have done it if it truly weighed 300-400 pounds!!!! :eek: :eek: CW

I completely agree with patrick...its COMPLETELY depends on your driving style. If you "Drive it like you stole it", (I Hate that phrase) NOTHING is strong enough. Generally speaking drive like you need to drive it to work the next day, use your head not the throttle, you will be fine. CW

Spring pads and shock mounts are wrong. but it NO BIGGIE!!! Find a buddie with a welder or rent one...Remove old perches, clean up area where they where. Install axle with perches loose on tube. Adjust your pinion angle, TACK WELD perches in place and move and weld....done!! CW

There is a couple guys in my club who cut decals...basically anything you would want!! He just cut me these for my TJ; Image Not Found Drop him a line...tell him I sent ya!! EMAIL: nipeej@snet.net WEB SITE: www.mahardesign.com Spencer is his name. He took measurements off my tail gate a while back so he could make me some new ones....now I have the swing out so won't need them... WEB SITE: WWW.CLICKANDSTICK.COM Another friend and member of same club is, Don is his name..try either or both... CW

I though alot about doing this as well.... I had the steel and the size was right and I liked the greater surface area mine afords. May not be any stronger...but it seems to me to be.. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it... CW

I eally liked what Pete did on his wheeler. But I wanted to be able to retain the use of the bed. I looked at one of those bed mounted jobbers, but didnt even want the bolts sticking up theu the bed. Yea, I could have maybe welded nuts un=der the bed and threaded into those....just didnt like the idea. I have ALWAYS liked rear tar swing outs, just screams tough/off road to me. So I began thinking about a swing out for the MJ. looked hard at a XJ swing out but the bed of the MJ isnt strong enough to hold the load like it is/can be in the XJ. Then the entire gate idea hit me....someone here posted the link you did and that was it..I was making my own!! I am very happy with the results. CW

Exactly...I would be more worried about the bearings that are being stressed than the belt itself...... I always adjusted till about 1/2" of "slack" is acheived. CW

All I can say is WOW... you REALLY should be using relays for ALL heavy current acessories!!! they are VERY EASY to install and allow you to run small gage wire for the switch. I like the 30 amp jobbies....for you guys that frequent the pic-n-pulls early XJ's have a bunch!! they are blue and on the pass side inner fender well. Looking at the bottom of the relay you will see four prongs. They are : 87, for your end use. IE your light or fan or horn 85, This is your GROUND. 86, this is the "trigger" wire. 30, this is the 12v line coming in. This line needs to be FUSED!!! The way it works is the voltage comes in to the relay. (relay just a HD remote activated switch) relay is grounded to complete circut. Iten you want to run is attached to realy and the final wire merely tells the relay to fire. thjis is a LO VOLTAGE wire. it takes very little power to fire relay. thats why you can run a little wire for this purpose. Usually there is a skematic on the back of the card the realy is attached to. But you could wire it a couple ways. the switch could come off the "trigger" wire OR the ground, but if usung the ground it will need to be a heavier gage. DC voltage is like a water pipe, the bigger the pipe the better the flow. Foer the fan wiring, check to see how the sender operates. is it mearly a ground when up to temp? Then wire it into the #85 wire for gound. Is it for voltage? then run your "trigger" wire to it and back to 12V's. I hope this better explains it. CW

Pete, I LOVE this threads...Good job. Keep the pics and comments coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CW

As I said earlier, as far as I know any D44 will bolt up. BUT, there are different diameter drums for diff apps. Comanches used a 10" I think...so as long as thats the same for a waggy those came off of....you should be good. Throw him a message and give you the measurements and thicknesses compare to yours and find out that way. CW

Here si a shot of my MJ before 33"s...its almost 7" of lift up front and five in the rear on 31" BFG at's Sorry for the rain pics...cannot find my good pics... CW

Try here: http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/index.c ... 285351425B CW

Personally I would buy these new. try the stralership or possibly quadratec. I would think any D44 as long as the dia of the drums are the same, should work. CW

Aint that weird!!! Of the four 89 XJ/MJ's I have owned all but one, (thats a AW4) have been AX15's!! I know of a couple more who are also AX15's . While my brother in law and couple friends w/88's ALL are BA10's. Books say 89 was the cross over year...guess it depends on part of the country tgey where sold in..... CW

Here is some of my favorites... I had a buddy change the color to blue..as mine is blue. Then there is just various ones I have come across, that struck my fancy: We may already have a couple of these.... Enjoy, CW

I don't see why not......they also offered a more HD unit, a 2000# clamp. At the last minute I went for the 1000# unit over the 500#er...GLAD I DID!!! the 1000# unit is not a large as I expected. You would want to mount it so it couldnt get hit as it will open pretty easy if contact is made with it.... CW

1989 and the BA10 is not unherd of but more likely its a AX15... '89 was a cross over year, but more AX15's went in than BA10's. Look for the seam running for to aft, revealing its a two piece case, if so its the BA10..... CW

Thanks for thinkin of me!! ;) CW