CWLONGSHOT

I picked one up tonight!! Drove past ir this AM on the way in to work.... It looked narrow but the price was right....$80!! :eek: :D Its LIKE NEW, TOO!! It was narrow, but I have a plan on how to make it work... Check out my MJ projects thread to see more... These are just shots of it SITTING in my bed. No its NOT attached. CW

For THAT much lift I also would go spring over and fab up a anti wrap setup. I a running the Rustys Spring and like it very much. BTW A Rustys +4" pack run SOA will net you in the neighbor hood you want. IF no I agree with BRETT, MAKE IT!!! CW

I found a used Roll Bar (Sport Bar)....Looks like I DO HAVE another project!!! The guy I got it from had no idea what it was from. Looks to me like it was for a step side something or other as its pretty narrow. 48" at its widest with a 39" wide base. Its like new NO RUST at all!!! Measuring it looks like I can cut it in the center and add some tube. Then adapt the rear legs and it should fit nicely. It's 3" tube, I stopped tonight and picked up two scrap pieces about 12" long. My other option is to chop it just to the outside of the down rear tubes and add a 6" piece to EACH side. This pic shows how much I need to widen it. Measuring and figuring quickly, It looks like I might be able to split the twin rear bars so one is on the floor of the bed, while the other is on top of the wheel well. I have 7" of distance (Each side) between the roll bar and the side of the bed. So 12" (6 each side) may just be the magic number. That will bring the OAW to 60" the width of the cab is 63". Height is pretty good. its almost dead even with the roof. So I may lift it an inch or so, although its not a safety device so it doesn't really matter as long as it looks OK.

I bought my first NEW vehicle in 1894. My regret was that I did not give JEEP more time and a better look!!! I had herd Jeep would soon have a Lil' PU. I looked at the Cherokee, it didnt "do" it for me. I couldn't wait and had saved for a while just to be able to purchase then anyhow. SO, I bought a 1985 Ford RANGER. It was a good truck to me, I had it for a long time and clocked 173,000 miles with little problems. CW

That pack is made out-of-house and is well rated. I am not a big RUSTYS supporter. BUT he does offer some good pricing on parts, I will purchase from him if he is just the parts handler. I mean if he don't make it or weld on it or design it, its OK to buy. :) :D You only have to deal with poor customer service. :oops: :headpop: I have these springs and like them alot. (Took three shippments to fill this order.)They do not make this product. They are manufactured in Canada. Its a good product and I recomend it. BTW, IMHO, its WAY better riding than a SOA set up. CW

Just a note, A steering stabilizer MASKS Death Wobble. DOSEN'T CAUSE OR FIX IT. If it goes away after replacement, you haven't fixed ANYTHING! You still have worn parts SOMEWHERE, your just masking them. CW Hey, thanks for yelling at me. I appreciate it. Alex is right, I was not meaning to come off like I was yelling or upset. Please accept my apologies. This is a COMMON misconception. Doing me best to dispel it, that's all... CW

ALEX, That PN is for the eliminater center cap? VERY cool thank you!! CW

I mounted mine to the bed behind the cab. I used the hi lift mounts and SS bolts. CW

YUP, That is the proportioning valve. That rod is how it actuates. as weight is added to the bed the rear brake bias is increased giving you MORE rear brakes. with out weight the front brakes do MOST of the work. It COULD be as simple as adding weight to the bed for these tests!! An MJ does NOT HAVE a prop valve up front. What you see is a metering/ distribution bloc. Its purpose is the split the lines and work with the dash brake light. It does isolate the brakes in case of a line blow out. Where that to happen you will retain brakes to the other axle. You CAN just remove it, re-plumb a line from the distribution block to the rear line and call it good. You can also do that and replace the distribution block with a proportioning valve from a Cherokee XJ and call it good. I ran with the first option for some time with ZERO problems. People told me the back would lock up first making hard stops unsafe. Well I have been driving PU's for 20+ years and the ALL lock up the rear first!!! Personally, I would throw 500 lbs in the bed and go take the test. its likely the rear valve is working as you say the peddle is hard and jeep stops well. CW

Just a note, A steering stabilizer MASKS Death Wobble. DOSEN'T CAUSE OR FIX IT. If it goes away after replacement, you haven't fixed ANYTHING! You still have worn parts SOMEWHERE, your just masking them. CW

They work pretty good for what they are...nothing fancy. Heat is your friend with that thing..... CW

Steering box itself....there is an adjustment. How are the Ball Joints? Did you switch the tars front to back? If no try it ... CW

I found a center cap from a JEEP % spoke rim and that DOES NOT fit, So I guess I was wrong, there ARE different sizes. You wouldn't think that would happen, but as feerocknok noticed, I guess JEEP doesnt make all their own rims!! I grabbed a set off EBay. but I now think they will not fit. I think they will fit the 5 Spoke. Supposedly, the Eliminator wheels center caps are the same as mine. If someone has them, could you be kind enough to remove one center cap and tell me the Serial Number? It would be GREATLY appreciated. In the mean time, I'll keep looking. :cry: CW

Here is a couple shots of my buddies CJ. He is running 2.5" lifted springs and revolvers F&R, extended shocks and 33" tars. Flex is really good!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

What is it your trying to achieve with more flex in the rear? Softer rate springs out back can flex REALLY well. There is also revolver shackles and long travel shocks. Both of which are loads cheaper and easier than designing a entire rear suspension. Just my 2 cents. CW

How much gas is in the tank? If less than a 1/4 tank I wouldn't worry about draining. You are right to start with the filter, its a easy job and should likely be done anyhow. After that I would check the fuel pump. When you first turn the key, before the starter catches, you should hear the pump prime the line. If you don't, its likely the pump is shot. Try that and get back to us. Good luck, CW

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I got these from another member. I may make my own and use these pics for dimentions. CW

Glad to hear!! YES absolutely tars that are out of ballance or have broken belts can cause a situation very simular to DW!! One difference is you can almost always pin it down to a perticular speed. Generally DW is not speed limited. its more something sets it off, like a pot hole or a dip in the road or a out of ballance tar. When measuring BS you measure from the outer most edge to the wheel mounting surface or WMS. Like I said before, its entirely consievable someone adjusted mine and Pete's stops sometime BEFORE we owned the vehicles. EXCELLENT point Pete!! :bowdown: Think about this, its a good example. If your rim has 5" of BS it dosen't matter if its 6'', 7'', 8'' or even 10" wide, the width beyond the BS is OUT from the WMS!! Otherwise the BS would be MORE and we have already established it remains at 5", for this example.. CW

I have been on there now for the past hour...seems everybody is measuring them differently!! As far as I knew, these where all the same size with in the Jeep name. But people are measuring them as 2" to 2 1/2" in diameter/ Mine are 2 3/8+ overall diameter with a 2.10" dia hole. Measured with a Vernier Caliper. SO, I have a Buddie double checking as I do not have a pert number from the actual center cap. I only have PN's from the rims I need them to fit. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

With shackles you need twice the legnth to get half the lift. SO the factory is 4.5-5" you will be looking for a 5.5-6" long shackle. XJ.s have a 3.5" shackle so a 2" lift for them would be about right for what you want. As for the years of chebby shackles, I too am running a set. I don't know the year, but as long as its the same width (most are same as MJ/XJ) and you know the legnth you need they will work. CW

I just did a quick search. I found these: http://www.hubcaps.org/jeep.html At the bottom of the page just right of center...I ALMOST CHOKED!!! $30 EACH!!! That's $120 for a set!!! I don't THINK SO! :headpop: :headpop: I could see maybe $10 or 12 but #) that's plain absurd! I'll keep looking you can count on that.

Well, Painting from the rear did nothing....its just flat back there, no angular advantage. Kinda makes sense actually, otherwise how would they get the rim out of the mold with angles from all directions!!! :dunno: :rolleyes: I shot some color on it anyhow. Even if its just to "seal" it up from the elements. Image Not Found The first coat looked and felt awesome!! A nice and smooth even finish. I need to find some center caps. I guess will just go to the stealership. I would like the ones on the ZJ's. they are metal and say JEEP on them. the ones that go on these rims are plastic and black and say JEEP on them. CW

Pete - nice looking Stock MJ I have these same 5 spokes that I'm running on the '89, and they rub on the LCA in a tight turn, I had one off today, and checked the Back set, and it was 5", and I do beleve they are 7" wide rims, I doubled checked a stock steel rim and the BS in 4.5", and now I know why they rub, have 235's on both. FYI, Stock Steel FORD Ranger rims will fit PERFECTLY and have 3.75 BS. Its likely, someone measured incorrectly or has another MFGers rim if the BS is different. All Jeep XJ, MJ, YJ, TJ rims I have seen have 5.25 BS. Obviously I haven't seen all of them, but I have seen and measured many in the past twenty five years working on and driving jeeps. BUT, this is JEEP we are speaking of, so my last comment is out the window, as when talking Jeep, anything is possible. :roll: :eek: :D Image Not Found CW

nah i meant that I have the turbines on my truck, maybe they're less BS? NOPE, As far as I can tell, all Jeep rims (XJ, YJ, TJ any how) are the same BS, about 5.25. Image Not Found Like Pete, I can not say with certainty if my stops where altered in the past, but 31x10.5 did NOT hit the LCA's with the 10 spoke Jeep alloy rims. I switched to Trexus Swampers on the same rims and they hit, but only because of the design of the tread. there are large lugs on the sidewalls as most of you know. CW

The longer length gave you back the caster you lost when you lifted it. The new bushings better isolate harmonics, which is all DW is anyhow. That's more likely what eliminated/redused your DW.... DBL, check your toe in, if there is any hint of DW left, thats likely where you can totally eliminate it. Because of the inverted "Y" steering linkage, as you lift your toe decreases and needs to be adjusted. CA's not hitting the axle brackets, just gives ya more droop!! :brows: But its all good anyhow, right! Looks good!! CW