87manche

you might want to just grab an AX-15 that has the t-case with it. I can't imagine a junkyard T-case would cost much more than a new input shaft, especially if you're buying a combo. Why stick with the internal slave? I need to replace my grinding AX-15 and I fully intend on going to the external, it's just a whole loat easier to fix if the slave cylinder dies.

blower motor is accesible from the engine compartment I believe. pop the hood and look on the firewall right next to the passenger side fender. It's dwn a little ways.

vacuum lines should go to a "box" attached the the axle on the passenger side. I'd say it's about a foot from the tire, right below the oil filter practically. Check that the lines haven't crack or pulled off. If the lines look to be in good shape it might be the motor itself. You can pull it off and try cleaning it, if that doesn't work you can slide the collar over to engage the axles by hand, but your front DS will always spin. http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm there's a cheap homemade manual replacement.

the shift light is worked by voodoo.... Naw, it's really a light put on by the ECU. A lot of things factor into it. Engine Temp, Throttle Position, speed, Rpms. You don't even need to let off the gas, I get it when I drop into 5th all the time. I usually curse it, and then it goes away in 4-5 seconds. I disregard it mostly myself. If I shift at it's shift points I just feel like I'm lugging the motor.

Are you sure it's not a ground problem? Try grounding a test light from your 12V lead at the light buld to the chassis. If it works then you might just want to ground the blubs right to the frame, or figure out what happend to the ground.

do you want the pump in the tank? I've seen Holley electic fule pumps used on v8 EFI systems, so I would imagine that they would hold up to the I6. I know they have a number of inline pumps.

mine did exactly the same thing. If I smacked the top of the dash occasionally it would come back on, it also seemed to work when it was warm. A lot of good that did me for heat :) Anyway, here's what fixed mine. Step by step, sorry if it's annoying. Pull the small trim piece below the steering column. Unscrew the trim piece screws, there's two above the gauges, and one below and to the right of the HVAC controls. There may be more, mine didn't have any and those are the only three holes I found. I removed the trim by pulling it at the top, once it cleared the top of the dash I popped it from the bottom and removed it. If you can you might want to park it somewhere heated, I was worried that I would crack it by flexing it while cold. The HVAC controls are held in with 4 screws. Just unscrew those from the ears and it will pop right out. I removed the center vent just to get some more room. I'm not sure if it was needed or not, but I took it off to clean it anyway. My Blower was intermittent because of the big connector on the upper passenger side of the HVAC controller. I did not remove any of the vacuum lines. The connector is almost an edge connector , I just unplugged it and "tweaked" the contacts back towards the center. I also cleaned everything up with contact cleaner, and pumped it all full of di-electric grease. There's another connector on the opposite side, I did the same just as a matter of principle, but it was the one on the right that stopped my motor from working, the jiggle test confirmed. Sorry for the book, but I hope this helps. Edit: I'm pretty sure there was a grey wire with a stripe that went to the connector in question. I should have taken a picture. My memory can't be trusted though, spraying contact cleaner in the cab got me pretty buzzed. Mines an 87 BTW.

with the VD axle would the locker click constantly? I imainge that the half shaft would spin at the same rate all the time on the passenger side.

dude, you're awesome for pointing that out. I left my email. If the tranny is in good shape I will jump on that. THen part the rest.

ups= the evil. I don't know why I even wen to their site.

those were the options it gave. That one is from Dec 19 to Jan 3. that's two weeks.

EGR? And if got's an AX-15 what do you want for it?

I pounded the chrome beauty rings back on to the OEM steel wheels that I mounted my snow tires on, to try to cover up some of the rust on them. Lotsa cursing involved, as well as a couple of beers (at 10:30 in the morning, no less.....) Not only does it look pretty, but it goes faster now :D Jeff if you want to go really fast you need some stickers, sticker make everything go faster, I put a sticker on my water heater, and now I never run out of hot water.

it's fine, hell it's probably better maintained than most of the rust buckets around here. Find a different insurance company. State Farm has never asked me for a photo, hell, they didn't even inspect the Mj when I bought it, I just called and gave her the VIN.

he gave it in the post above. From UPS.com Crazy money So Ups want $150 to ship a 2lb package with 24x8x6 dimensions valued at $25.

yeah, I think I'm just going to go that route. Gotta find my drill bits though.

I don't have any vise grips that are going to get in there. it's deep in the plastic. If I can get at it with a dremel I'll put a slot in it and try a regular screwdriver. It's so rusty that I may break off the head at that point, but then I can pull the taillight and remove the rest with vise grips.

wheelhop is definitly not normal. Are your leaf springs shot? Any suspension mods? spring over perhaps? I've not expereinced anything like that in my 87, and i've dumped the clutch with 31s. SHe ether roasts them or we go like hell.

what's it doing. From the sounds of what our checking I'm guessing it just runs like poo. I've still got an odd high RPM WOT issue. I'm pretty sure it's something with the injectors. I'm pretty sure one of them is shorting at WOT and popping the fuse. Now how to figure out which one...

so, I'm kind of a dork. Here's my sat radio install. http://www2.siriusbackstage.com/forum/v ... 186#313186 I plan on hardwiring it to the ignition and cleaning up the cables. I'm getting a new headunit for christmas, so I'm gonna do all of it at once.

it's not my boot that's my problem. the ring that holds it in is broken, so it's a bit "finicky" That and the ball of the shifter is hogged out. I just need a new shifter.

So I've got the upper screw all boogered up. it's rusted in there pretty solid and I've stripped the head. I don't want to ruin my taillight whie doing this. Anyone got any ideas? I thought about sliding my sawzall between the light and the body, but that didn't seem like a good idea. I suppose I could drill ou the head and removed the threaded part with vise grips. Does anyone know what size hole is in the plastic? I'd look on the passenger side, but it's rusted up too, and I think I'mgoing to have to do this to both.

I've got an ax-15, but mabe I can help. On mine you need to unscrew th shift knob. The bottom of the boot just snaps in with a plastic rectangular trim piece. I just put my pocket knife under it and pop it out. It comes out on one end, I think the rear. The other end is hinged in. Pull up the one end and pull it out at the other. They you should be able to slide the boot up and off the shift lever. There's also a c-clip on the shift lever to keep the boot from slidig down and bunching. You only need to take that off if you're removing the dust shield on top of the shifter mount. Hope that made sense. I have to take mine off weekly to fix my shifter. Anybody got an ax-15 shifter they care to part with?

sounds productive :D

not ambitious, friggin cold. I haven't had a blower motor al week. I was just relying on going fast enough to provide heat. About 20 minutes of driving would make it so you could take your gloves off :)