87manche

with an auto it will be much less noticeable. The occasional pop or ratchet noise and that's about it.

Is it really that sketchy? I've never seen the consequences of this gone wrong. well, it is an explosion too much fuel and the tire will pop, and likely throw some heavy chunks of rubber. it's not recommended. I've done it once on an ATV tire, no spares on an atv. I can't say I would even try it on a large swamper or something.

it's 3" stock uppers skyjacker lowers all the bushings are new. replaced when I did the axle swap trackbar is stock with the axle side mount redrilled to center the axle. The wandering went away when I replaced the passenger unit bearing. I really think that it's just the castor being all f-ed up on the drivers side because of the alignment. This is the same place that put the wrong ball joint sleeves in my knuckles, and they rotated while I was driving and it destroyed my front tires. I imagine that he did the alignent with the wrong sleeves in, and that would have affected the castor. Then when he replaced them with the proper parts I bet he was lazy and didn't redo the alignment. Needless to say I'm not satisfied. I'm going to follow go jeeps procedure this weekend, double check that all bolts are torqued to spec, and that the camber and castor are good.

if you want to make a trip to central ohio and pick up about 10 of them you could make serious coin.

haha, try adjusting your driving style with a manual and a full detroit. Sometimes it shakes the drivetrain so hard it feels like the truck is coming apart. Either drive with enough gas around a corner to totally lock it, or push the clutch in. DO not try and pedal your way around a corner with light throttle to maintain speed. When the locker ratchetts it will give some slack, then your RPM's jump and it's a very unpleasant shock load.

When I upgrade my steering I likely will go with a JCR style DOM setup and try to go OTK with it.

jeepspeed 3 is basically anything goes, but I still don't think comanches are legal. Here's the jeepspeed 3 rules. Shortbed MJ is 113, so we're outside of the 110" wheelbase.

rusty's steering sucks from what I've heard. try jcroffroad.com at that height though you're probably maxing out the TRE's Might want to consider something custom with heims, or some form of high steer or crossvoer.

shame you're not near me. local yard has a pile of 8.8's already pulled, $90 a piece

swamper+ether+long flaming stick=tire back on bead.

yeah, these are 34x9.5 SS bias ply. 27/32's tread depth, like the q78's. They're noisy and flat spot for about the first 5 miles. I love them. Road tires are in the works, some generic mile marker brand 33x9.5's. Just because I don't want to eat these up on the road. I can get a set of the 33x9.5's for what two of these cost.

fixed control arms. but when he set the castor the drivers arm is shimmed to it's limit, while the passenger side is normal. I really think it's because the guy that did my alignment had no clue what he was doing with a solid front axle vehicle.

that's the problem I was hinting at. A tire that wide on a stock steelie is going to rub just siting there. I rubbed my 10.5 on the inside of the frame rial out back and the LCA's up front. I can't imagine what a tire 4" taller and 4" wider would do. You couldn't steer if it was up front, and you probably couldn't fit it on if it were out back.

both of those have discs. Choose whichever has the lowest miles.

yj lines are about 4 inches longer. you can also bend the hard line straight and resecure it farther down. That should get you all you need.

running these on the road is only temporary, until after the holidays and I can afford some 33x9.5 mall terrains

just put the 34's on, they're all at the same pressure, this has plagued me since my axle swap/alignment debacle. Just a slight pull to the right. I'm grasping at straws. I think I'm going to do a garage floor alignment on turkey day while the wife's at work.

that's an old trick. A bit o butane or hairspary and you can pop a tire back onto the bead. it's not entirely safe, but I can say that I've done it in a pinch,

perches were done properly. Honestly I'm not even sure if the axle is crooked. I'm just running over why I can't get this pull to the right fixed. all TRE's are tight, balljoints are new. usat had an alignment. The alignment may be the problem though, that guy screwed me over fierce. Looks like I'll be taking a tape measure to it this week.

that or a lazy IAC.

Do MJ leafs have an offset center pin like an XJ? I've been trying to figure out why my truck pulls, but I think it might be getting pushed by the rear. I did not do the lift in the rear, my brother put that back together back there while I worked on the front.

I'd run a 33x9.5 for a spare on a stock rim. Not because you'll have problems with that tire on the rim width, but the backspacing on a stock rim will make it SUCK if you have to drive off a trail. It will rub on everything.

the tcu controls all shifting. The only thing the range selector does is tell the trans wheter it's in park, reverse or forward. Grab a console shifter and it's cable, should bolt right up to your aw4, you don't even have to mess with any wires, it's all mechanical.

yeah, I've been putting mine off. Autozone has it for 98 bucks.

check out skyjacker as well, that's what my 3" lift is on. With fender trimming I'm running 34x9.5's/