87manche

I know someone that runs those, he's been happy, they even replaced one after he bent the snot out of it.

you should put an ANL fuse near the battery, in case one of your wires becomes damaged. A cable that size will carry enough current for long enough to explode the battery or at least do some serious damage.

call a dealership with the VIN. That sunroof doesn't look like mine, but mines an 87. I've got a screw mechanism that pops the top, and genuine mopar labeled glass. If it's got buckets it's probably a laredo or pioneer. I know that the pioneer was the top option in 87, cause that's what mine is, and it has all the goodies except AC.

if you're keeping the Renix ECM you don't swap flywheels. You need the flywheel the corresponds to the ECU you're running. If you're looking for the easiest swap do what was suggested, keep the renix manifolds. They should bolt up to the head OK, you may have a little bit of work to get the intake side sealed up properly. Otherwise, grab the motor and all of it's accesory brackets. Use the motor the brackets and KEEP all of the old sensors. You'll have to modify the renix TPS to fit the HO throttle body. Google it, there's a writeup, or if you're a member of NAXJA it's in the old tech article section.

Well, I'll keep you posted. So far its starting fine. Yeah, got it, thanks. I'd love to add another needed part to my list. I might as well buy a new truck with all the parts that should be replaced. How much does a decent set of cables go for? head to NAXJA, do a search for a user named 5-90 He makes a very nice kit for the XJ/MJ, it's about $60, comes with crimped solid copper ends and it's all made out of 0 guage welding wire. It's total overkill, and it will replace every mains cable in the truck. hell, I couldn't even buy the wire for what he sells it for, let alone the ends and the crimper tool.

likely a ground wire. Pull up the carpet in the back, behind the drivers seat, there's a plug right there, it's got the tail lights and the fuel pump wire. CHeck that it's got 12V on the orange wire there, if you don't, it's something forward of the cab, if you do, it's something under the truck. If you get a weird low voltage reading, check the fusilbe link, I had one freak out and it read 3V to the pump. If you've got 12V to the plug right at the pump, check the ground. if you've got ground and 12V at the pump, it's possible that the wire came off in the tank, which sucks BTW, and you'll be pulling the pump and hanger assembly again. Of course, it's possible that you just got a bum pump, which is why it's always a good idea to test a new pump in a bucket.

check the master for fluid. Even if you had a leak, the front and rear circuits don't share a resovoir, so one or the other should have worked. I lsot the rears completely one day, the pedal was odd, and I only had front brakes. anyway, enough of that. What happens when you press the pedal, does it slowly sink to the floor? Try stabbing at it hard and fast, if that works then I'd suggest you have a master cylinder problem. If the pedal is hard as a rock then the booster is likely died, or the vacuum hose has fallen off. Of course, you should inspect all of the hard and soft lines, and don't forget to take off the rear drums, in case you popped a wheel cylinder.

factory or aftermarket sunroof? I'm still hunting for someone else that has a factory one.

I've been searching on pirate. looks like the box 4 rocks can be setup 231J to 231C. He said it should last fine behind a stock 4.0, he just prefered the 300 for the twin sticks. Twin sticks aren't so important to me, as I'd just end up destroying the D30 with front digs :D

I'd love to, but then I'm creeping on 1K bucks again.

I belieeve you'll still need the brackets.

well, I figure that with the wore out 4.0 I'd be morelikely to pop a u-joint than a case. I had planned on using a 231c for the rear half, keeping the front half of the 231j, but upgrading it's planetaries with guts from another 231C. In regards to just putting a 4:1 in it. I figure that a doubled t-case will come in at $600, and I was going to upgrade the driveshafts anyway, so I'm not factoring in that cost. a 4:1 kit is almost $1000. Plus, I can run the trails and mud in the first low, which is perfect for my 3.73's and 34's, and when I hit rcks, I can do double low. then put the 31's back on and hit the highway.

as stated before, I have a re1600 ready to go into my junk. My only concern is that RE has you mount the rod end in single shear. I'm just not a big fan of that. My solution will be to eventually cut the stock mount up, and box the bottom in. So I can run the rod end in double shear, and do it with the bolt horizontally. this will allow for maximum flex, as I can't max out the rod end in that configuration. it should also be substantially stronger. It will look very much like that kevins trackbar, and seems to be the best way to mount a rod end.

OK, so I've made my decision to put a doubler in the MJ, so I can keep my 3.73 geared axles, since I've got to drive this thing for hours on end to get to wheeling spots, and it's the camping vehicle. 10 hour trips are the norm for the MJ, and I like my 31's and 3.73's on the highway. so. A few thoghts: I can get 231C cases for $40. Possible to use a 231 behind another 231 as the doubler, or is a 231 just not strong enough. If it's not I'll go the tried and true D300, but I was trying to avoid the cost of flipping it. The D300, man what a T-case. If it ends up being that I need to go gear driven this is the preferred case for me. Whos got some info on flipping and twin sticking one? I'm trying to keep this little experiment on a budget. Otherwise i'd just go buy a stak.

my brother has a dynomax cat back, it sounds nice, but it's not deafening loud like a flowmaster.

OK, so I've done quite a bit of reserch on this topic. What I know: The basic 4.0 block did not change too much. The problem with using an 00-01 donor is that it's coil on plug, and as such does not have a distributor. Rumor has it that you can stab your old distributor in the hole, but I've not been able to get a solid confirmation on that. If you use an HO motor, it's easiest to use the renix sensors. You'll have to modify your Renix TPS to mate it to the HO TB. I've see the pictures, and there's a writeup somewhere on the net, looks like it'll take about 5 minutes with a dremel. Your accessories will not bolt up to the HO monifolds. You'll need the power steering pump and it's bracket from the donor motor. I'm not sure about the AC side, as I don't have it and wasn't concerned with it. As eagle said, some of the later blocks (97+after the NVH redesign) MAY not have the boss for the knock sensor, this seems to be hit or miss, so inspect for it before you buy the motor, it's on the drivers side, right in the side of the block. Generally speaking the 91-95 motors had the best head, I forget the casting number. My plans for the stroker were this: a 91-95 block, renix controls, renix sensord mated to the block, HO accesories on the motor.

bah, I'm at 265K, the 4.0 runs fine. 2.5's are just as bulletproof. I've been told that a 4.0 TB fits the 2.5, and it offers much imporved throttle response due to the larger bore. Something to think about.

well, it would seem to me that by that reckoning you'd fail the visual because it's an I6 and not a V6. I believe what was stated previously is true, now that you've got a 94 motor it needs to pass 94 emmisions and be tested as a 94, visually or otherwise. That's how they do it in the e-check counties here in ohio.

I like how the dynomax sounds on a 4.0 Not a big fan of the flowmasters, too loud and droning at highway speed. I've got a relatively stock style muffler on mine, it's a walker. Sounds nice if you romp on it, quiet at idle. I dislike loud obnoxious exhausts on the trail.

if you only use your cammand trac in very slippery conditions then it's fine. Pavement that's not snow covered just doesn't allow enough slip. I once forgot to take mine out of 4wd (part time light doesn't work) got onto pavement, drove a little ways, took a turn, the front tire hopped pretty violently, I thought for sure that I had just broken something.

true, it would be much more critical in an application like this. I know that it's been done, but for the life of me can't find the product. I remember it being caled a turtle, and it was fixed in place of the cap on the master cylinder, and used air pressure to simply push the fluid.

the vacuum booster does not improve the brakes, it simply makes it esier to push the pedal. Brake actuation is a matter of the master cyliner piston moving in it's bore. If you could apply enough pressure to the brake pedal you could still actuate the brakes 100%

sure you can. The largest problem you'll have is adapting the renix TB to the HO TPS. other than that, just swap out the renix electronics for the HO ones. You might run into some pinging issues, adn the HO computer was designed to run with a different camshaft. Might I ask why you'd not want to run the Renix ECM?

true, but the renix powerband is still in the 2500 RPM range. Try driving 55 in 4th, that should put you at about 2200 rpm, see what kind of mileage you get.

I can pass this on to the AMC-list. There are quite a few people back east looking for 2wd AX-15s and AW4s (to put into AMC cars, like I'm going to do with the '82 Spirit I bought my wife. It only has 60K miles on it original!) and 4x4 ones seem to be a dime a dozen there. I wish, this way a 4x4 AX-15 will set you back at least $300 from the yard, and that's no bellhousing or anything else, just the trans itself.