dragonrider477

so if somebody buys some used mj tail lights or rear bumper and wants to pay in quarters..........

Thats the same thing i noticed when i moved to Tn, when i lived in california cheap beaters are a dime a dozen, and out here you're lucky to find something under 1500. boy you are not kidding about tennessee used car/truck prices.i moved to the tri city area in e. tn. last year and could'nt believe the prices people were asking for junk.i was out on a motorcycle ride when i found my mj.the seller was'nt home at the time.the truck was mint with NO RUST WHATSOEVER (alabama truck)and the asking price was a steal.i pretty much camped out till he got back and bought it on the spot.he had 2 phone calls while i was there buying it from people that took his phone # off the for sale sign earlier in the day.if i had'nt waited for him to get back,i would'nt have gotten the truck for sure.

the brackets that hold the brake pads are worn allowing the pads to move around and rattle.the noise is usually worsened when the rotor is warped a bit because every rotation of the rotor will lift and drop the pads making it noisier.stepping on the brake stops the noise.besides expensive new parts,there is no cure for this.i am of course assuming that your wheel bearings are not hosed as that would cause this too.

good idea.the fact that your truck never dies once it is running might suggest that some unwanted resistance in the cps wiring may be weakening the signal just enough to cause a no start while cranking.when you "ROLL" start it by popping the clutch your system voltage is higher due to no starter activation which might be just enough to "boost" the signal to a level that the computer can interpit.that signal,under the best of conditions is'nt very strong so anything that deteriorates it will cuase a hard/no start condition. good luck!

if you find that the nss is the problem,don't faint when you price it at the dealer.last time i checked it was 200 bucks! i bypassed mine so it will start anytime.not the safest thing to do but if you are the only driver it should be ok to do so.the connector for it is on the passenger side near the firewall/valve cover area.a wiring diagram will tell you which 2 wires to hook together to bypass it.

getting speeding tickets with that rig would be only a far off dream,never to be achieved. You must have never met a NC State Trooper.......... no i have'nt as of yet.when i am in nc it is usually on my motorcycle and almost always on the windy back roads that i love to "play"on.when i am on the main roads or interstates,i never speed.you are just too much of a sitting duck.i guess it's just too hard for the cops to make the big money writing tickets on the back roads. not enough traffic.probably the only time they patrol these roads is at nite when it's easy pickin's to bust the drunk rednecks in their p/u trucks on the way home from the bar!

rained like hell here today.the water pours in through the vent window rubber gaskets,drips on the interior door panels and puddles on the floor. this explains why the door panel cardboard was wet when i changed the radio speakers last month.if this is the only leak i am going to swap the fixed vents from my 1993 xj parts truck.will they fit my 88 mj? are they less likely to leak water?the vents always had wind noise so i was planning to swap them out eventually to the fixed type but now i will move this mod to the top of the list.

i am a little worried that someday soon the prices that junkyards are paying will severely hurt the market for the 100-300 dollar parts jeeps that i have been able to buy for the last few years.most people are wise to the scrap prices and when you try to buy a parts vehicle cheap they are quick to remind you of what "bubba's towing" will pay him for it and pick it up to boot! that xj in east bumfxxkville ok. was probably far enough from the closest scrap dealer that none of the local scavengers considered it worthwile to buy it and deliver it to the crusher with gas/diesel at 3-4 dollars a gallon.in the bigger cities where scrapyards are more closer,junk cars bring big money from the itinerent tow truck scavengers.

getting speeding tickets with that rig would be only a far off dream,never to be achieved.

According to Haynes, the module and ECU get 12V from the ignition switch in ON and START from the same wire. There's a plug in diagnostic connector 2 that I can test for 12V there. I'll check it next time. In START the ECU gets another 12V signal from the starter relay. I assume this signal is so the ECU will advance ignition timing for starting. I wonder if it's a bad ECU ground. Anyone know where I should look for that? The succesful roll starts make that unlikely too... There's something called the "B+ latch relay". I don't know what that does. Anyone know? There's also an O2 sensor relay, and we all know about the fuel pump relay. I bought a new relay and switched it out for each of those 3 relays when it didn't start at NAPA earlier today. No difference. the b latch relay leaves the computer powered up for a short time to allow it to pre-position the idle motor for the next start.the o2 relay i believe is for powering the heated part of the 02 sensor.the 91 up HO chrysler system did have asd relay issues.the engineers used that relay to power up way too many things,(injectors,coil +,fuel pump,02 sensor heater,and others).i have seen a shorted 02 heater cause a no start on one of these systems.not the best design imho.

there is a green wire going from the starter solenoid to the computer.it's purpose is to tell the computer the starter is cranking the engine and obviously the computer should take the suggestion to get it's ducks in a row and start the fuel and spark events so it will run. this cranking signal comes off the terminal that goes to the starter.there are 2 connectors on the computer.a24 pin and a 32 pin.the green wire you are looking for is on the 32 pin plug and is labelled c3.you might try as a test to disconnect this wire from the computer and then see if it starts.if it still starts with this wire removed from the computer then this is not a source of the problem and you need to look elsewhere.if it fails to start we then know for sure that the computer needs this signal to start the truck.if that is the case, hook the wire back up to the computer and wire a test light or a buzzer or anything else that will measure the 12v signal on this wire while cranking.next time it does'nt start,monitor this signal.no light means that you have a harness problem somewhere between the solenoid and the computer.if the green wire has good power (cranking voltage shoud be at least 9.5 v to be a reliable signal)while cranking and the jeep is a no start most likely you will need to try a different computer as it is likely going bad intermittently

if your engine is worn and has excessive crankcase pressure,no amount of "fixes" or "bandaids" will correct the problem.most reputable auto shops will not do oil leak repairs on high mileage cars because of this.no mechanic wants a pissed off customer that just spent hundreds of dollars for a rear main seal or other big dollar oil leak repair, only to find that it still leaks.in some cases,even if the oil leaks are stopped,the car still uses oil.people don't understand that a modern car can burn a quart of oil in 500 miles and not smoke.the catalast does a good job of hiding the smoke.jeep 4.0 engines will run forever but after a while,just like any other engine,will suffer blowby problems.many jeepers give up on the pcv system and just run a "blowby dump hose" off the back of the valve cover.this works but i would'nt want to breathe what comes out of that pipe!cars built before the mid 60's had this type of system. i can remember when i was a kid seeing cars sitting at intersections idling in gear with plumes of blowby smoke coming out of the road draft tube under the car.in most cases,if you have checked the normal pcv stuff and repaired it on your jeep with out success,an engine overhaul/replacement is in order.

i had them check for an 88 which showed the same size for either motor

i checked at napa and the catalog shows the same size 2.25" exhaust for the 4 cyl system. i think the po went to a muffler shop that made the system on a bender and the guy used the wrong size stuff.probably on purpose as the cards that come with the pipe bender tell you what size pipe to use.maybe he was out of the right size pipe that day.

yeah,my rugs are damp and i am planning a weekend soon to pull it all up and check the floors for any moisture damage and fix anything that looks bad.

well,it does do 22-23 mpg on road trips.maybe i'll wait till it rots out before i mess with it,thanks.

my mj came with a new exhaust system from the po.according to what i found out at the parts store,it's too small.the parts guy said it should be 2.25"from the back of the cat to the end of the tailpipe.mine is 2.25 at the muffler inlet.2.0 at the outlet and the tailpipe is 1.875.will this hurt performance? the truck seems a little weak when i step on it and wind it out to higher rpms(2500-3500).truck is 2wd,4.0,5 speed,3.07's removed and replaced with 3.55's.

from what i have seen on this site,all mj's leak when parked in the rain.what's up with that?where are the usual leak spots? can you ever get one of these trucks to NOT leak?

:bowdown: Looks awesome, great job! what lake in tn are you parked at?

the yard is located on w. market st. not too far from the harbor tool store.

just a suggestion.change everything.cylinders,hardware,self adjusting cables and adjusting screws.the stuff is cheap and you will have a much better working brake system.

as far as i can tell.an mj bedliner fits an mj.no others will fit right.

how about a close relative that works for exxon-mobil that likes to give out gift cards for christmas.

ya know,they say just a little pure antifreeze mixed in with her daily coctail......sorry,just kidding!!

napa shows the same part number left or right. part #94310,49 3/4 overall length,41 3/4 conduit length.lifetime warranty. i used these on my '88 and they fit perfect.i got them the same day from the local store.they had to get them at their warehouse. if i remember correctly they cost me about 33 bucks each.if you need the part #'s for the front cables(there are 2,short or long box),pm me.