VixJeep

Success! After years of high idle issues, I decided to get serious and fix the problem. I had done a few of the Renix tips years ago, but I started back at the start and got the ones in my signature done. Bought a new TPS, set it, and the idle came down, but was still too high. What to do? There was only one idle related item on the Renix Tips left to do: The Butterfly adjustment. When I read It was never intended to be adjusted in the field. But, Uncle Bob didn’t know that, did he, I knew exactly who my "Uncle Bob" was. After adjusting the butterfly, she purrs like a kitten. Jackpot! Only downside is that the chirp is louder......it never ends.

Thanks. It s a little dirtier now, but I've done a lot to tame the loose wires with wire loom. I spent many hours getting the oil and gunk out of the engine bay and off of the hood.

I figured out the motor side. One wire runs the high, one ground, and one runs the low. The two others are the park circuit. There is a video on youtube that explains it all. Search this on youtube to find it: Dead Things Vlog - Windshield Wiper Motor Wiring.

I saw the park circuit, but the wire colors don't match up on the output side, which I figured went to the motor. On the input side, the colors match up, so I'm going with that. I've looked at the diagram long enough to understand that I can't figure it out. I think my best bet is to figure it out from viewing the connectors configuration on the motor side and on the truck side, rather than solving it as an electrical problem.

1988 Comanche 4.0L. Wiper motor went out. Bought a new one. Through a series of stupid stuff I won't go into, the plugs were cut from both ends. Of course, careful notes were made, intentions were good, but I lost all that stuff. I've been trying to figure this out for months. What I know: From the wiring harness, I have White w/black stripe Green with black stripe Black Blue with white stripe Brown with black stripe On the motor, I have White Black Green Blue Red Black in each case is ground, so I put them together. In the Haynes manual, as I read it, from the harness I have: Green w/blk is power. it goes to the breaker White w/black goes to low Blue w/white goes to high Brown w/black goes to the park switch, and works with the green wire on that Black is ground Checking my motor with a 12v power supply, White runs the motor on low Red runs the motor on high Black is ground Which leaves green and blue. When voltage is applied to these, nothing happens. When I test with my meter, there is almost no resistance there. It seems like if you go low to low, ground to ground, and high to high, I am left with Green/Blk, Brown/Blk on the truck, and blue and green on the motor. Hooking it up either of those ways, I get nothing on low or intermittent, and it runs super slow on high. I have tried just about every combination of wires. I was able to get it to run on low only at one time, but now I have no idea what that combination was. I'm hoping someone has an aftermarket wiper motor with the same wire colors and can help me out, or maybe just someone that understands this better than I do. I have refreshed and modified all of my grounds, so it isn't that. Thanks for any help. If you have a picture of the factory harness with wire colors or a pic of an aftermarket motor with the harness and colors, that might help me figure it out.

This isn't a fix, but an observation. My cable jumped for quite a while when I was having idle and vacuum issues. When I got the idle and vacuum issues straightened out, the speedometer stopped jumping. Could be a coincidence, since they shouldn't be related.

1988 Pioneer Manual 4.0 bought at Memphis Jeep Eagle on 12/17/87. My first new vehicle.

Thank you so much. After vacuuming a volume of leaves from the fan area, it was blowing again, but all up top. That was maybe the quickest, cheapest fix ever. But then I messed around and found the guide of everywhere in the A/C I need to take loose and replace the o-rings. I already have a new compressor, dryer, and evaporator installed, but I've never changed an o-ring so it leaks. I even found the pack of o-rings I bought to do it. Looks like I have found me a Sunday project.

OK. The black line connects to the broken vacuum hose. Could you be more specific as to where the white one goes? Just want to make sure I get it right.

Nothing really picture worthy this week, but a great productive week. I found and repaired the problem in the parking lights and blinkers. I was fuse box residue from the brake fluid spil from the master failing. Got the headlight lighting harness upgrade installed today. My daughters bought me a nice hood to fix the sagging old hood hitting the cowl when it opened. I'm getting it ready to change that this week. I vacuumed a ton of leaves out of my blower fan, got the interior lights ready to hook up, Greased the chassis except one in back of the drive shaGt. gotta get a slimmer nozzle. Hopefully I'll have a running A/C next week. Got an o-ring kit ready to go and new compressor, dryer, and evaporator. we'll see how that goes.

I've looked at numerous pics and vacuum drawings, but I still haven't figured out what these are. This is on an 88 Pioneer w/air, 4.0, 5sp manual. My blower blows all the air through the defrost, so I thought these might be the vacuum lines that work that. I am referring to the black and white lines that come through the firewall just below the overflow tank and above the blower motor. Its been a great week for Jeep projects. I got my parking and blinker lights going again, got an alternator, vacuumed leaves from the blower motor, mounted the rear view mirror, got a new hood, did the headlight wiring upgrade, and fixed the broken headlight adjusters,

One correction to the above: The lot is Mr. Complete auto parts on Jackson Avenue. They have exclusively Jeeps on the lot. Nice folks. The only issue I saw is only the "boss" can price items, so sometimes it takes a while. I did get the last remaining front parking light sockets for my 88, and they were after market ones. I saw a couple of nice hoods, which they priced at $35. Since mine hits the cowl when raised, I was thinking about just replacing it. My daughters heard me talking about it, went down there, and came back with a very nice hood and said Happy Birthday early!

This Comanche is located in a salvage yard in Memphis that I visited today. It is at Warford Auto Parts. I can't guarantee that last digit of the VIN. The pic I took just wasn't clear enough. When I get to my other computer, I'll post a picture of it. It is a red Pioneer, sliding back glass, looks like a 60/40 bench seat with headrests. decal on door was gone, but I saw something in a sticker under the hood about complying with 1988 ..........whatever, so maybe an 88.

Hi all. Brief preface to questions. I've been off work since June (arm weakness and numb hands). I am having c4, c5, c6, c7, and t1 vertebrae fused in 3 weeks. then 3-4 month recovery time. In my boredom, I'm hoping to compile a project master list, and these questions are but a few of the many I have. Please forgive me if I post an inordinate number of questions in the next couple of weeks. This surgery has gotten me anxious and focusing on the Jeep keeps my mind off of whats coming. I thank you in advance for any tips or opinions. I'm numbering these, so Body parts, especially step bumpers are becoming scarce commodities. With that in mind, 1) Please refer to the pic of the rear bumper. Can this one be beaten back in shape reasonably, or replace it? I already need license plate lights and the left plastic step, but I'm not having luck finding one anywhere within driving distance. 2) Refer to the tailgate pic. It works ok, but there is a bend in it at the top. Can a body shop fix that, or should I replace it? 3) Picture 3 - left rear panel pic. I think this one is most likely repairable, but I don't know. Most folks want to sell the whole bed. Repair or replace? 4) Hood and under hood pics. My hood hits my cowl in the center just it starts to raise. Broke the old cowl. I bought a new one, but can't use it now. My daughters confessed to sitting and standing on the hood, so no wonder. They never admitted it till they were grown. The first pics shows that the alignment is pretty even all around the hood, but it might bump forward a little. The hood height matches on both sides, but sags in the center underside pic shows underneath it a brace with pancakes of adhesive pulled apart. Could this be the key for a body shop to be able to pull the center of the hood up a bit by attaching the brace? If not, new hood or has somebody found a better fix? 5) When painting stuff like aftermarket headlight trim and grille, can it be done at home and look decent? I have the new chrome grille, but I'm putting it away until I get it painted. I just need to spray paint the old one to put back on for now. Does it need to be primed or painted with a special kind of paint, or just Krylon or Rustoleum? Or should I buy another after market one, and put a clear sealer on it to protect it? 6) Also I have surface rust on the roof and parts of the bed. I'd like to sand this out and prime it to stop the spread of rust. Someone said not to use above listed primers , because the body guy would just have to sand it all off again. Whats the best way to take care of the rusty spots till I can get it painted? What about bumpers? Freds fast dry, Rustoleum, or dupli-color? Or should I leave the bumpers to whoever paints it? My pic order turned out crazy. most should be identifiable. 7) Last question. Refer to side picture. These rims are in decent shape, but the clear coating has clouded. I found a set of 4 in Texas refurbished for $500 plus shipping. Could a fellow strip this clear coat with aircraft stripper or just buff it off to save the gray paint on it, polish it up, and re-coat it. How difficult is a project like that to pull off? That clears my list today. Any help and tips welcome.

Hi all. Brief preface to questions. I've been off work since June (arm weakness and numb hands). I am having c4, c5, c6, c7, and t1 vertebrae fused in 3 weeks. then 3-4 month recovery time. In my boredom, I'm hoping to compile a project master list, and these questions are but a few of the many I have. Please forgive me if I post an inordinate number of questions in the next couple of weeks. This surgery has gotten me anxious and focusing on the Jeep keeps my mind off of whats coming. I thank you in advance for any tips or opinions. I'm numbering these, so Body parts, especially step bumpers are becoming scarce commodities. With that in mind, 1) Please refer to the first picture. Rear bumper. Can this one be beaten back in shape reasonably, or replace it? I already need license plate lights and the left plastic step, but I'm not having luck finding one anywhere within driving distance. 2) Refer to pic 2. The tailgate works ok, but there is a bend in it at the top. Can a body shop fix that, or should I replace it? 3) Picture 3 - left rear panel. I think this one is most likely repairable, but I don't know. Most folks want to sell the whole bed. Repair or replace? 4) Pics 4 and 5. My hood hits my cowl in the center just it starts to raise. Broke the old cowl. I bought a new one, but can't use it now. My daughters confessed to sitting and standing on the hood, so no wonder. They never admitted it till they were grown. The first pics shows that the alignment is pretty even all around the hood, but it might bump forward a little. The hood height matches on both sides, but sags in the center Pic 5 shows underneath it a brace with pancakes of adhesive pulled apart. Could this be the key for a body shop to be able to pull the center of the hood up a bit by attaching the brace? If not, new hood or has somebody found a better fix? 5) When painting stuff like aftermarket headlight trim and grille, can it be done at home and look decent? I have the new chrome grille, but I'm putting it away until I get it painted. I just need to spray paint the old one to put back on for now. Does it need to be primed or painted with a special kind of paint, or just Krylon or Rustoleum? Or should I buy another after market one, and put a clear sealer on it to protect it? 6) Also I have surface rust on the roof and parts of the bed. I'd like to sand this out and prime it to stop the spread of rust. Someone said not to use above listed primers , because the body guy would just have to sand it all off again. Whats the best way to take care of the rusty spots till I can get it painted? What about bumpers? Freds fast dry, Rustoleum, or dupli-color? Or should I leave the bumpers to whoever paints it? 7) Last question. Refer to last picture. These rims are in decent shape, but the clear coating has clouded. I found a set of 4 in Texas refurbished for $500 plus shipping. Could a fellow strip this clear coat with aircraft stripper or just buff it off to save the gray paint on it, polish it up, and re-coat it. How difficult is a project like that to pull off? That clears my list today. Any help and tips welcome.

I checked the link, and it had zero in stock, so I pasted the description into ebay and hundreds came up. Most of the two headlight ones looked very similar. I specifically looked for one that says it fits a Comanche, and only 1 listing popped up. The connections all look exactly like the one in the link, so I bought it. Unfortunately, It cost about $35, and I think its the same as the others, but its ordered.

I bought a 14 ft v hull jon boat and trailer this summer. The guy asked me $1500 for it. I laughed at him when I saw it. He called me the next day and offered it to me for $250.00. Sold! Spent about $50 on trailer parts and spray paint. This, I found out, is a 50 year old boat, and it doesn't leak a drop. Last week I moved it from the front yard to the back yard for the winter. I had to place it carefully to avoid it being under one of many rotten limbs that could fall on it. When I went around the property to check for downed limbs this morning, there was a sizable one right where the boat used to be. It wouldn't have crushed it, but it was big enough to dent it good. Today has been a good day.

My go-to source for local stuff is car-part.com. Just put in your vehicle, the part you need, and search by distance from your zip code. There are a bunch of junkyards linked up on there. I usually search for several parts just to find a junkyard near me that has a Comanche on the lot. You can go see what they have on them that you might need. I found 3 or 4 in Memphis like that, and several within an hours drive.

This morning I was awakened by the Civil Defense sirens and my phone going off with alerts. Tornado Warning for Memphis. I immediately jumped into action and did the usual thing - I went outside to see how bad it was. I was caught up by the wind and carried to the top of an ancient Hickory tree in the yard. Its at least 80 ft tall. I was surprised to find that my cell phone service and the view were both amazing. My girlfriend came to the rescue. She was yelling "Jump, I'll catch you". (never should have made her beneficiary on that life insurance) That's when all my years of training kicked in. I did a mighty Tarzan yell, then swung from tree to tree on the vines and landed safely back on the ground. I suffered a hangnail while digging my toenails into the tree to hang on, but I just bit that right off. Most importantly, THE COMANCHE IS OK! In all seriousness, other areas of Memphis did sustain broken windows, wind damage, and power outages. My thoughts and prayers go out to those affected, and I hope this starts someones week with a smile.

Thanks for the info everyone. I've been looking for that headlight harness link for a couple of days. I'll have it ordered today. I don't drive it at night 'cause I can't see. I guess its time to get it.

That all looks right, except it never had a tachometer. I'm not sure what they mean by head restraints, but it doesn't have head rests.

eaglescout526, I am in the registry. I added it after your post yesterday. I'll have to look up how to check the axles and gearbox and add that info.

1988 Comanche Pioneer 4.0 liter inline 6 cyl. Not original motor. Manual five speed on the floor. Two wheel drive It has the Peugeot gearbox, or so I was told. Front/Rear axle ? I'll look. Same on gearbox Short wheelbase - 6 ft bed. I couldn't read the build date, but it seems like it was august 1987, within a month either way. I purchased the vehicle from Memphis Jeep Eagle on 12/17/87. I had an issue with it a few months later, and the dealership had closed down. This vehicle has resided first in Tipton County Tennessee, and is currently in Shelby County (Memphis), Tn. It is currently registered, insured, and drive-able most of the time. I do have a salvage title on it now. Someone hit me a few years ago, and insurance just totaled it(left rear panel damage and bent rear bumper). I bought it back for about $500. Still need that panel replaced/repaired and a rear bumper. There is absolutely nothing exceptional or different on this truck. My goal is to restore it back as close to original as possible. Dark Blue metallic exterior. Gray interior. Cloth kinda herringbone pattern bench seat w/notch surrounded by medium gray vinyl. I am the current owner, and posted some 2015, 2016, and 2019 pictures of her in the Members Projects forum.

Fiatslug, I don't guess there are a lot of us left. Now you have me wondering. I'm sure that being one-owner trucks has made both our Comanches worth tens of more dollars, for some reason.