pingpong

I hate to tell you , but most axle tubes are pressed in using a huge press after the center section is heated :eek: your idea might be flawed

Evebn worse the a haven for rip-offs, and con artist.. it has raised the price of parts to astronomical propotions... for parts that would normally be thrown out... or sold dirt cheap. Also... ppl began to think their crap was rare.. cause they don't see to many on ebay

what caused the short?

I store my welding rods in the lil containers you can buy for them.. and have had zero issues with moisture and if by some chane the do get moist.. lay them out on a disposable aluminum pan.. and bake them :brows: Believe it or not.. at the local shipyard.. some of the welds call for the rods to be preheated :eek: thats where I learned that trick ;)

Thats some small rod there 3/32.. I hardly ever use anything smaller the 1/4 :D Talk about single passwelding

I would wait.. just in case the PO decides he never disposed of it

I am going to say better then 5"+ it is clearing the 33's real easily, but the fenders are hacked. I am hoping that tomorow(today) I can go pick up some 4x4x1/4 angle at the scrap yard to make my mounts... I all ready got the steel to make my rock rails, and a few other things, With a lil time.. the radias arm d44's can be made to work well...I know Pete's looks and does good, I just hope mine does as well

Stick welding is more about heat, and puddle control. Pete there are many reason why you lil buzz box doesn't work properly. Maybe you got the wrong kinda rods for it, or the rods were too big for the size of welder you have. I overcame the fact that my garage doesn't have a 220 outlet, by making an extension cord that I plug inot the dryer outlet :brows: I too have a flux core machine, but I rarely use it anymore cause of the fact that I was taught to weld with a stick, and it is just easier that way for me. Practice makes perfect when it comes to stick welding. As for how they make proper welds with a mig... it is mostly puddle control again, along with heat control. The larger MIG (metal inert gas) machines have the power to weld and the gas is just used to keep contaminants out the puddle. A flux core machine functions preety much the same as a stick welder, but most are run on 110 volts, and they just don't have the @$$ to burn through the crap that a barn burner/ tombstone welder can. IMHO.. the ayto darkening helmets have also ruined, or made lazy the welder. I still use my full face shield style el cheapo helmet... even though I own an auto darkening shield... I don't think it is really that much of an advantage when striking an arc. Also if you learn with the bare minimums.. when you have all the luxuries it makes it real easy to weld :brows:

well I went and picked up the coil buckets, and got the coils, and shocks hooked up here you can see how it will lok from the side here you can see it with the trac bar hooked up with the drag link and trac bar hooked... this thing has really good steering angles lastly is a side view... the hi-lift and jack stands barely have any weight on them... so this is how it will look when complete.

The problem with a wire feed welder is how big a PROPER bead is. Using a stick welder the proper thickness or width of a bead can be up to 3x the diameter of the rod.. which means a 1/8 rod can make a 3/8 bead in a single pass, and still be a "good" weld by acceptable standards. I forogt how thick a mig weld can be.. but it is a similar formula... also the advantages of a mig welder are lost when you use flux core wire.. you stil have to chip slag, but you don't get the benefits of deep penetration

My rigid co weighs about 60 lbs.. the one on casper comes in around 50. It all depends on how thick of material is used in the building of it... also how much stuff is added to reinforce the stress areas. the weight can sage your front as much as 1" depending on the springs that are used, and how old and abused they are.

I say hack the frame behind the cab.. then add dubious amounts of DOM... then add 3/4 ton or 1ton axles.. well heck might as well tell you to build a rig like mine :D

I know to weld aluminum it takes a special setup on a mig machine..... I also know that that setup is pricey.. so more then likely I will never weld aluminum

I never did that to my lights, and had zero issues

Also mine have the 7* bushings.. I hope to have everything straight by tommorow so I can finish getting this thing ready

I figured out that picture tail thing... so now I know how to post pics :nanner:

http://community.webshots.com/user/cj7xjmj The pics are up to the point of where I am waitng on coil buckets, and steel.. which I will pick both up tonight

believe it or not.. I don't know how to post pics :eek: I will get them posted on my webshots page here directly though

Alot of states are tightening up on lift laws.. since the auto makers are making vehicles with lower bumper heights. You are also 100% correct about the yocal rednecks going out in the woods and "rooting it up" or the younger generation "saying it not posted, lets go there" Keep in mind every piece of property in the United States is owned by someone, and if you perscribe to its not posted... it must be legal mentallity.. send me your address, and I will wheel in your front yard :evil:

He probrably thinks you are going to buy them all and put them on ebay. I had one person I gave some old parts to try and sell them on a local board.. needless to say.. I rarely give parts away anymore

DO it Do it :evil:

If you come out early in the morning I can give you a hand doing it.. I have to leave my house for work by 130 though

If used properly.. you will get no more distortion out of a plasma then you wil out of using a cut off wheel

Pete... can you tell me what to set the caster at on the Ford axle? As it stands right now.. I am waiting to pick up some f-150 coil buckets this evening, but the axle is ready to install :D I just need the coil buckets so I can Dial in the caster, and start reinforcing the frame with some 4x4x1/4 angle :brows: Once I get that all said and done.. it will be finished. Incidently I am going to need to buy a new set of coils, cause it seems that the passenger side one is deformed... undoubtedly from the way the PO had the suspension setup :mad: Now for how Casper drew blood on me, and sent me to the hospital :eek: I was working under it... removing the drag link, I undid the nut, and set down the wrench when.... THUMP.... the drag link hit me in the forehead :thwak: Thus sending blood running down my face, and making my white t-shirt a nice color of crimson :mad: a short trip to the hospital to make sure I didnt need stitches, and I was done.. but all the same Casper will get a proper beating once I get the front suspension straight

plasma cutter = almost no clean up if used right :brows: As for the torch.. yeah you have to chip and grind some slag.. but it just so much faster then most other methods