pingpong

I can tel you what to expect... expect something to be broken, and you to have to wench on it :wrench:

A stabilizer can mask DW though, or what ppl call DW. As Eagle stated DW is caused by many things, but mostly worn out bushings, and bad wheel bearings cause what alot of ppl refer to a DW, I just call them bad vibes. A steering stabilizer wil fix bad vibes where as if you truly had DW.. it takes a lot of work and trail and error to find the cause.

Well I mounted up the x-member, and then realized I need to re-do it cause I didn't clearance it for the driveshaft :wall: if that wasnt a bone head move.. I don't know what is :smart: Well at least I was able to move Casper from in front of the garage The wifey has been :rant: about it for a few weeks now. I aLso found out that I am going to need some kinda spacer to level the rig out. Here is a pic of what it looks like

If you were closer I would be willing to make a custom set right on your rig. As soon as I get done watching paint dry on casper's x-member, I am going to weld up a set of rails for it

Well this project has been sitting in front of my garage waiting for me to get motivated. Well today I did some more work on it. I finally finished making the crossmember, whish is nothing more then some srap steel I had laying around. If I decide to keep this rig, I will do some further work on it, and make it better/stronger. Here is a pic of the x-member

Those gauges just let you know bad things are about to happen :eek: Only gauage I need is a gas gauge :brows:

Do you have 10"wide rims on your rig?

MY cherry picker is a non folding unit, and weighs a ton. It has been known to pick up whole vehicle front ends with the legs and boom extended out. I bought it used about 8yrs ago for 200, and it has been a real good tool to have when I have needed it, but in the way 90% of the time

There has been much discusion on parts of this lift kit. OME coils are top of the line. It has been said that the no weld SOA parts won't work on a d44 (don't have first had knowledge, read it on this forum somewhere). All that being said, you might just have to weigh the por's and cons of the kit, and try it out

I just read this interesting article over on PBB and I am providing a link for those who are lazy. Pretty informative, and should answer your questions on "is this to big, or strong enough for my junk" http://pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Links

Your pics kinda turned out dark, but al the same a cool rig. What kinda lift ? As for Rock rails.... you are pretty much on your own when it comes to them. I know a bunch of companies were talking about making some, but I haven't seen anyone with any. Personally I make my own, as well as my own rear bumpers.

Whatcha trying to say ;) I thought about using the same name when I eventually open my own shop, especially since my Initials are PM :chillin:

I had the idea, just never acted on it ;)

You can find Cherry pickers for around 200 bucks, for a folding one. This was one of the best buys I ever made, except I got a full size version that won't fold. They come in real handy for lots of things like building axles, bumpers, removing beds, and other various things.

I used to be into IH Scouts :nuts: I must say that is a nice clean example of an Early Scout. To me the 64-65 models are more desireable, cause the windshield folded down in them. BUT anyways... the motors are IH specific, and hard to find parts for, and have notoriously bad Oil pressure even when new/rebuilt. On top of that the early D44's in them were closed knuckle verions, and they had an equivalent of a AMC 20 in the rear, with the dreaded 2piece axle shafts :wall: Did I mention it was the only vehicle I have ever owned that rusts faster then a Chevy :eek:

Besides the rarity, the 30 mpg's it what I would be after. :hmm: maybe put a pane injection kit on it as well :wrench:

Where is this shop at,and does he have a website?

I seen it on JF so it must be true :teehee:

There are 3 or 4 bolts/nuts holding the header panel in place on each side. The top one is a PITA to get to, especially if it has been rusted on.

The whole purpose of the DB's is to correct the Control arm angles. Adjustable uppers will fix the caster problems associated with taller lifts. I know I have posted this a 100 times... RE Drop brackets work like a champ, even with stock upper and lowers, just watch out for bushing wear. Tera Flex makes a cheap and flexy Long arm upgrade kit if you all ready have adjustable uppers. It is basically a parrallel 4link setup. As Dirty said.. going leaf spring upfront isn't as easy as some ppl make it sound, especially if you don't have a GOOD welder, and some fab skills

You need to come wheel with some of the ppl I whee with :brows: it can be a carnage fest at any given time One of the guys motto's is... Spectacular throttle equals spectacular breakage :driving:

Q-tec or $wd hardware always has them. I think a set of 15x8 cragar soft 8's were less then 120 to more door about a yr ago

with no winch to boot :eek:

I have seen in the Painless wiring catalog a Lock up bypass for the 700r4, but I personally have no experience with it. I imagine if you did a search on pirate or a chevy dedicated truck site you could find the info.

The reason why I say I would run the turbo 350 is cause no computer to set-up, or worrying about the lock up convertor. I am not 100% on this, but I think the early np231 had a 21 spline input, and the 205 is a 23 spline unit. Not 100% on that though. As with any tranny and t-case swap... it is always a crap shoot on weather or not you will need new shafts after the swap is complete