Mountianrider

Ok, this is perplexing. I'd check the connection to the CPS to see if it appears in good shape. I'd be tempted to make up a kind of piggy back wire set up, splicing in to the old CPS connector and running the new wire to the next connector and splicing back into the line at that joint. I am begining to think those little wires corrode inside and cause these failures? Any one else want to comment on this idea? Just last week mine refused to start when I went to move it after sitting in the hot sun all day. In the evening it fired right up. I replaced the CPS which had been it since new (1990) and had 300K miles on it. No problems yet, and I swear the milage has improved quite a bit. I replaced the fuel filter when I had the engine rebuilt last year, I also replaced the fuel pump. Yes, the filter screen was virtually varnished shut! Don't really see how she was getting enough fuel before I replaced the pump. So, it wouldn't hurt to replace that as well. Sounds like it might be a good idea to make up a jumper for the fuel pump resistor as well and just tape it to the fender by the resistor as insurance measure.

I Bought this Bulk Freighter for parts, it's a Canadian Cherokee and it's got Dana 44 Axles! As luck would have it the only thing wrong with the old girl was a broken heater valve. Those plastic vacum controlled heater switches blow up after ten to seventeen years. Mine went after seventeen years, cheap crap, and if you don't know any better you'd think it was a blown head gasket. Well, lucky for me a Boeing Engineer had it towed home on 12/24/2004 with that exact problem! Only thing was, he thought it was a blown head gasket! It sat in the garage for the next, ah, four years! I bought it and got it home with a U-haul and the vaunted J10 recovery vehicle. My best buy ever! I checked the oil and it was clean as the day Mr. Engineer had it changed. Well, that just didn't square with a blown head gasket, which is almost impossible to accomplish with the 4.0L any ways, and, since I had started the Cherokee to get both on and off the trailer, and it ran fine, well it just couldn't be a blown head gasket. I added water to check and a bunch comes running out on to the garage floor. I look and am astonished to see the broken heater valve. Lucky for me I bought it from a Boeing Engineer! Kinda makes ya wonder about flying though? Any ways, $350.00 all total and I've been driving it for over two years now! Ok, so this doesn't have a lot to do your question, but the point is that some Cherokees did come with Dana 44 Axles. There out there and they should just bolt right up. The only thing you have to swap is the rear springs I think. :Canadaflag:

Tie Rod Ends would be Third on my list to check.

Worn or lose Track Bar is the second most obvious place to check.

I'm starting with incorrect Toe-in as the first place to check.

Let's just say that my personal insurance methods are a personal choice and not recommended for beginners. You need to be trained, you need to know the law, you need to have a concealed permit in most states, and you need to be able to judge if your actions are both legal and liveable. You can't just shoot someone even if they are robbing you, you have to be "in fear of you life," or in the act of protecting someone else's life. It's murder even so, but justifiable homicide. Now, can you live with your actions even if the act is justifiable? Remember, the most important words you can ever say are; " I was afraid for my life!" Don't ever forget that! As a mildly experienced protection specialist, in an assortment of fields and jobs, I have unholstered my weapon on many occassions. I have never had to shoot anyone, yet, but only because they made the choice to quit doing whatever it was I was offended by. The only people who can pretty much just shoot you down for acting stupid are the money men. These guys are under a completely different set of laws. Armored couriers are protected by federal law and the cumulitive crimes act and the legal rulings surrounding armored car robbery. Most don't know these things, but they are there and an armored courier can shoot you just for threatening them or menacing them. Basically, keep far away from the money men if you value your health. Lots of people have been killed because they got caught up in a gun battle between couriers and robbers, but I digress, the point is obvious that you really need to be trained and accustomed with the law and how to act and carry yourself in public and when you have to deal with a law enforcement officer while armed. Last, don't ever let an armored courier even see your weapon and if you are in the area where an armored truck shows up, then, leave immediately. Should something happen you become a prime suspect. Carrying a weapon is a huge responsibility, it is probably the second most important choice a person could make, second only to making a decision to have a child. That's a whole other subject, kids and guns! If you get robbed, then your out some cash, big deal, it isn't worh the conequences of shooting someone over. The cops will catch up with them eventually. :smart: The only reason to carry a weapon is to protect your life and the lives of others; not to prevent a robbery, or capture a suspect, or the stuff we people pay cops to do. :USAflag:

Getting robbed is one thing, getting murdered is another thing. Getting robbed is like having an auto accident; tramatic, but if you get through it un-harmed, then, you have done the right thing. Personally I always pack heat, which is no guarantee by any means, but I don't recommend that concept to most people. Speaking of little criminals and car parts; About two weeks ago I am outside having my coffee and I notice a cop car on the corner of the property, so I go down there in my bathrobe holding my cup of java and walk up to this cop and ask; "So what's going on officer?" He looks at me and asks; "Do you live here?" I kinda looks at my robe and then gesture towards my house with the cup of java and say; "well yea, (like it's normal to wander around the city in your underwear and robe.) Anyways, turns out the kid next door has been running a little Chop-Shop for the last four years! The cops finally got sick of all the stolen Hondas and set up a bait car. So, you just never know about people do you? :dunce:

Well, I think these kind of experiences seem to have a kind of run to them. I've done ok with craigslist but there are those who try anything. Yea, you would think that someone selling something would be responsible and be there as arranged. Well, maybe a break from the craigslist burnout wouldn't hurt, but I wouldn't let the bad overshadow the potential good deals you might make in the future.

Blhtaz is right, there is a leak in the connector and it is letting air in the system. Rebleed the clutch. Three or four good pumps on the clutch pedal should do the job. See how that works for a day or two, and if it repeats the same problem your going to have to use some teflon tape on the plumbing connectors.

Yep that works, the magic 2X4. I made up a spring loaded 1" dowel pushed in a pvc pipe. I got tired of having to custom cut the magic board.

Ok, the clutch system in these are critical: Meanings, that your clutch pedal is securely welded on to it's bracket; Right? Not flopping around or anything stupid like that? Like Mine Was! You must not have any un-necessary slop in the mechanical part of this system. It is Forbiden. Next, the BA/10 is known for it's very slow engagement of first gear in particular. Other gears should shift fast and smoothly though. If it isn't going into gear then don't force it. Either the concentric slave needs bleed or the clutch disc is excessively worn. At least lets hope that is it, else wise I'd have say the sync's are gone or going. Usually caused by forcing the shift without double clutching. I bet you just have air in the concentric slave still, but... Could the clutch disc be worn excessively?

Yes! Yes! Yes! Keep pumping! It's shouln't take too long, but it's been over a year since I did it so I can't remember for sure. I'd say that it should start to build a working pressure after about eight or nine good bleeds. You are holding pressure on the clutch pedal? Right?

Wow! The stupid thigs are different! :dunce:

:eek: Wrong you say? Impossible, Mr know it all here; or didn't you know that? Ok, so I'm asking Pete how I could possibly be in error??? Gads, there is one at work that I park right next to and they look exactly the same. If you and Pete are right, then, that's the second mistake this year! A new worst record! Honestly, I'd really like to know :bowdown: What gives???

Last resort, or other crazy things I've done; Dremel and Cut-off Wheels, or grind down to the threads and use a sharp chisel to split the nut or seperate it from the rest of the threads. Then you should be able to get the nut off the stud. While a basin wrench should do the trick and a really good welded on nut should also do the trick, the fact is that what seems simple is sometimes just impossible. Sometimes just grinding the blasted nut down is fastest and easiest way to remove a really rusted on bolt. If your really careful you can usually not harm the threads too much. If you wreck the stud or think your likely to wreck the stud then just take a cut-off wheel and split the nut and use a chisel to get the nut off and then drive the stud out and replace it. :cry:

Hey dodge dakota used exactly the same tail lights. That's the earlier generation of dakota. Maybe you can locate some that way, on ebay if nothing else.

Hey I know this is an old post but I have a Cherokee from Canada with the metric system installed. I'm begining to think these senders are designed for those vehicles. I had a Comanche which just about drove us nuts with this same issue.

Is this the metal concentric slave cylinder, or the plastic one? Only the metal life time warranty one is going to last. Those plastic ones are complete junk. I pulled the tranny on one Comanche four times! I replaced it on the last time with the highest quality I could buy. I don't know, it seems that if you have a new concentric slave then the only other possible problem is the clutch itself is not up to the job, even given the possibility of a cheap plastic concentric part.

Ok Got It! Thanks To All! Busted mechanical brake switch not closing circuit. :dunce: Thanks you guys, I got to spend more time looking at this stuff.

First Off; Thanks I greatly appreciate all the help I have gotten here. I double checked all fuses in the cab and they are all good. I lack a good electrical schematic but am attempting to trace the power input to the Hazard Flasher because I have no power at the Hazard flasher. Which way does the power flow? From the flasher to the brake switch and ,then, to the hazard switch, or the other way around. I thought the power flowed from the key to the hazard switch and then to the brake switch, and then to who knows where? Ha! Not too sure I understand this Flashing Brake light operation. If the flasher grounds, as my schematic seems to show, why then does my Cherokee have power at one of the hazards flashers plugs? That mechanical switch on the brake pedal, should not have been harmed or damaged. I only removed the bolt which connects the pedal to the brake booster arm, and to which it is attached. I replaced the booster and master. However, I will check this mechanical switch. I don't see any relay that could be involved? All grounds seem good; I cleaned the rear ground behind the drivers side tail light. All lights are good. I'm sure it's something stupid. Could I have knocked anything lose which feeds the power to the Flasher circuit? Fuseable links? The flasher and brake circuit are idependent and powered from a hot lead attached to the top of the steering shaft in the cab; Right or wrong? About your question on the signal operation; Yes, i've had this vehicle since new. One owner, me. It's only left my view twice in seventeen years for service I could not do. It has never been monkeyed with in any way. Ah, untill my little brake mod started three weeks ago that is. The turn signals flash then the side markers flash; they alternate but only with the parking lights on or the head and parks on. I thought they always did, but can't be sure since this brake light problem and hazard issue could be causing interference. Being old doesn't help a hell of a lot either, and I don't mean the truck. The 88 Cherokee does not alternate but I have since discovered that the flasher units were put in the wrong spots. The 522 was in the place of the plastic factory unit and vise versa. Swapping those caused the signals to begin functioning at a normal pace. Before they flashed like they had bad grounds, which the do, but that could also be responsible for a variety of flasher issues. I was amazed to discover how critical the bulb types are to correct functioning. Who knows, maybe the only difference between the 88 and 90 Comanche are the types of bulbs! As soon as I get this idiotic brake and hazard problem solved I would like to look into this more.

:clapping: Wow, is that really a great job or what? Just Excellent! Really nice work and very inspirational. :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Oh yes, your asking us what ideas we might have about space. I'd rather see what your creative mind comes up with first. I don't want to crash any potential ideas I could rip-off. :brows: Frankly, the more that engine compartment resembles my 1941 Dodge 218 flatheads compartment, well, the better as far as I'm concerned. Clean and clear of confussing unnecessary componets, like a heater, who needs em, dress appropriately for the weather; what's wrong with you? :thwak:

I just ran a hose out of mine and vent it down by the oil pan: That, and the extra exhaust "breather" Hole I Drilled, help pass the emission crap, at least up till 280K. Finally had to have the engine rebuilt just pass the stupid emissions! But don't wait that long, it's bored sixty thousands over on the pistons and they could just barely do it as the cylinders were so ovaled. What can I say; That, I'm an irresponible idiot? :dunce:

Can We Talk? I mean Tires. There not flotation devices for errant pleasure boaters.

:eek: OPPS! Ok, About them Castors: How do you suppose these Comanches end up with these front wheels splayed apart? Are these idiots jumping them? :popcorn: I did put a straight edge on the bottom of the axle of the Comanche with front wheels splayed apart and I could not detect that the axle tube had been bent or deformed. That was a 2 wheel drive. Thanks for pointing out that addressing castor with shims will still not effect the front wheels being splayed outwards, which is a camber issue. :bowdown:

If your system is charging ok and the battery is ok, then, consider a severe short. I had this happen in my J10 with the wires to the floor mounted dimmer switch. The wire had smashed to the floor and shorted. A wonder the thing didn't burn up the whole system, but it didn't and as soon as I replaced the wire the lights returned to normal. Go figure. Now I know this is not a Comanche but the problem sounds kinda similar to my experience. Which was the first time I ever lost the head lights and had everything going goofy, cept for the current no brake light or hazards problem with my Comanche. Again, these problems can only occur at night, so just drive in the daylight and everything will be ok! :mad: No more vehicles newer than 1978! or maybe only one; any more is too much for a human mind to deal with! :mad: :nuts: :headpop: