Mountianrider

Ok, I'll check anything about right now. I checked the rear ground behind the tail light and cleaned it. However, I don't think the hazard circuit is getting power. The only thing I monkeyed with was the brakes. Could a relay be at fault? Strange that this just happened after my brake issue. Keep throwing em out here guys. :nuts:

Thanks CWLongshot, added it to my favorites; :cheers:

Ok, some of you may have seen my post about no brakes. Well I got that solved and now guess what? NO Brake Lights or Hazards Turn signals work, but do not alternate with the marker lights, as it used to. Headlights function fine and parking lights are ok. Everything functioned perfectly before removing the rear proportioning valve. I also replaced the master cylinder and booster. What could cause this? Could that brake warning connector on the front metering block be at fault somehow? I just don't think the hazard system is getting power, or else grounding issue somehow. Any ideas? :headpop:

I had an 88 MJ with a horrible case of death wobble. The first time it happened I thought I was lossing a wheel. I put new quality shocks on the front and did a front end alignment; That is, I used a couple of tape measures and set the front Toe; In about a one sixteenth of an inch. I drove it for quite a while, about a year, before selling it to a coworker: I had to get him away from a Dorf Ranger. Now he is a Comanche nut! Any way the wobble has not happened since. However, there were a couple things about this death wobble. The wheels always looked like they were not vertical, but splayed outwards, like the previous owner had been doing some jumps. The wheels also appeared to be splayed outwards when looking from the nose. After my garage aligment this appearence improved, but still did not look right. It was 2wheel drive MJ. You can tell that the death wobble is still lurking and that something else needs to be corrected. Obviously the caster is off. The wheels just are not vertical. I'd say incorrect caster angle is the main cause for death wobble. Good shocks and some toe in can help stop, but not cure, the dreaded death wobble. Now I agree with Eagle about needing to add shims to correct the castor angle, but where are the shims located? I am sure that the wobble is 80% caused by incorrect castor angle. :popcorn:

Yep, I found my old pilot bearing and it is exactly the same diameter as the nub on the converter. You have to remove the pilot bearing. Nothing goes in the crank hole to replace the old bearing. The nub should just fit right right in there.

Ok, I see, the 4.0 had a manual tranny and still has the pilot bearing.

What year? I got a pilot bearing for an 88 Comanche BA10 5speed that I can test fit to an 90 AW4. Are you swapping out a BA10 for the AW4 and what years? :chillin: :brows:

Oh, I see now that your not working with a 4.0L so I'm not too sure about the fuel pressure info. I don't think there is any difference between the 2.5 and 4.0L but can't be sure. :eek:

Ok, I put a new fuel pump in my Comanche. I bought it off ebay. I had to do some modifications because the two pumps were different. The original was a bosch, I think, and the essential difference was the mounting bracket because the original unit is for the optional 23 gallon tank, or something close to that. The replacement was for the standard gas tank, around 14 gallons I think. The unit was a complete replacement with the sending unit. The pump motors were different so I had to do some fooling around to fit the new pump to the original bracket since I needed the extra length of the sending unit on the original. I believe that there were three fuel pump motors from different suppliers, all for the same tank sizes. This is for 1990. Likely the replacement will be for the normal fuel tank size and you probably will not have to do any thing. :USAflag: I would suggest you make sure the pump runs in the right direction before you install it. I just used a bucket of water. Run a couple of jumpers to find which lead is needed for the power in order for the pump to run the right direction. Yea, guess how I found out about this one? It's nice to only pull the pump once, it's always exciting working around an open fuel tank, so save yourself the trama of this learning curve. Fuel pressure increased with the 91 model year and the introduction of the HO cylinder head. At any rate, I would think the pressure regulator would handel that aspect. TBI has pressure only with the pump running and my book says its at 14 -15 psi at idle. MPI or multi port injection, they say multi point injection, has an vacuum assisted pressure regulator; with the vacuum line attached the pressure should be about ten pounds lower, or around 29 PSI. With engine off and key on the regulator should read 39 PSI. CAUTION, This could be reveresed as my book first says with the line attached, and latter with it detached it should read 39 PSI. Pretty sure its lower with line attached and the truck running.

Very nice work. I saw a similar four door rig on ebay, not quite as refined, but still nice. Missing the visor, which I happen to like, along with the Cherokee roof rack. Supposedly Jeep quit the Comanche because of flagging sales because the Comanche did not have a club or crew cab. Dodge did with the Dakota. It's obvious that the Cherokee platform could have been utilized to produce a crew cab version. So is this a Cheromanche? The question is, would this kind of machine have sold well enough to have saved the Comanche? Personally, a short bed is the fastest, most economical, and most fun to drive. The long wheel base is no where near as nimble. I think Jeep had it right to begin with. I've converted at least one person in to a Comanche Nut with that Go-Kart short bed I sold him. His Chev and Ford now just sit and I bet he sells one of them by next year.

Ok, Well, I got brakes and I have eliminated the dreaded explosive Eagle Valve. Thanks to everyone for their contributions. Special thanks to 86Comanche :bowdown: . Well I have offically joined the ranks of the Idiots who routinely outwit the fool proof designers. Lord, how embarassing, what next? Stay tuned for more humor at my expense. :brows: Oy yes, he says; "Not a Novice Either." Ha!

:bowdown: Well, I I believe 86Comance has solved this idiots poblem. In his haste to replace the brake calipers it appears he did put them on the wrong sides, which does put the bleeders on the bottom, and this does make it difficult to remove all the air. Considering the grevious oversight already mentioned, I decided to avoid further errors by directly routing the rear brake supply line to the flex hose. As recommended. All brake lines are in in excellent condition so I will go with them for the time being. Owning the vehicle since new has the great advantage of having been well taken care of. Apparently the only real flaw has been with the owners belief in his supposed mechanical knowledge. :oops: Now, I have to go out and swap the calipers and rebleed the brakes. I have little doubt that success is in sight. Thanks to all, and I'll report back on the results shortly.

Well, thank god I listened to my friends about going to ComancheClub.com Ok, tomorrow I'll just run the supply line to the flex hose. I thought about just doing that to begin with but didn't want to fight any more brake line fittings. Yes I bleed the system per the instructions, which says not to bench bleed since over stroking could damage the master cylinder. Instead I installed the new booster and master, bleed the master by simply putting my finger over the disconnected lines on the return stroke. Pretty sure that the master is successfully bled. I'll try connecting the rear brake line directly to flex, like the rest of you, and report back. Now I thought someone said that by directly connecting up the rear line this way would result in full energy being directed to the rear brakes. Meaning the full measure of the rear brake master. That 30 or 40% you were mentioning. Is this correct? Thanks.

My J10 has leaf springs, good front shocks, leaf springs and air shocks in the rear, and it rides much smoother than my Comanche but certianly is nowhere as nimble. I attributed the weight of the J10 to the smooth ride, but could it be that the leaf springs are largely responsible, and is the trade off handeling? :bowdown:

I had front calipers dragging excessively, like almost locking up. I had rear brake shoes which have been on the truck since new, and still look new, so they have not been doing anything for the last 280K miles. So, yes, I have been having some kind of substandard braking for quite some time. Well, I figured that the reason the rear shoes were not wearing was because of this proportioning valve in the rear. I had researched the many problems this valve could cause here on ComancheClub.com. When the truck was new it had excellent stopping power, but this had been missing for many years. I elected to eliminate the valve after I found that replacing the front calipers had not solved my brake problem. I reasoned that elmination of the rear proportioning valve would only simplify the possible reasons for why the front brake calipers had started causing problems to begin with. I thought that maybe the rear valve was leaking and all the braking energy was being transfered to the front brakes, but in either event the rear brakes simply had not been doing anything for the last seventeen years and I thought it was about time the damn things started doing something, ah, like helping me stop. As I understand it, a fault in the rear brake system would route the total braking power to the front brakes, or vise versa. Obviously I did not think this through and just assumed the front calipers probably just needed replacing when I started this project. However,... After replacing the calipers I throughly bleed the lines, but just could not seem to get all the air out at the rear bleeders. I reasoned that the rear proportioning valve was somehow allowing air in while able to hold brake pressure, acting as a kind of one way valve. These valves seem to have many potential ways to fail, so I elected to just elminate it. This reinforced my notion that this is why the front calipers were dragging. I conduced an air tight test for the booster and found it had seemed to have failed while doing all this bleeding. I felt that it was probably time to just go ahead and replace the master cylinder and brake booster. I thought, this would also elminate any other potential problems and the brake system should then function like any normal brake system. My only modification was as described by Eagle who eliminated his rear proportioning valve after it blew up in a panic stop. I disconnected the front bottom line on the front proportioning valve and caped it off. I did the same at the back for this same line at the T fitting. The brake line which used to feed the rear porportioning valve was disconnected and reconnected to the T where the bottom line of porportioning valve once went up to. The original hard line that connects to the flex line was left intact. That's it, I see no leaks or loss of fluid. Any idea how much brake fluid it takes to fill rear brake line?

Ok, I went and checked to see if there was any change in the fluid level after pumping the brakes. There was no change in the fluid level. I must still have air in the lines? :mad: Sound about right? There is no evidence of any leaking any place. With a new master cylinder and booster, along with new calipers and the removed rear height proportioning valve, I can only think there must still be a large amount of air in the system. :eek:

Thanks for the response. Not a brake expert by any means, but not a novice either. There are no leaks, no fluid dripping any place, and, yes, I am getting good flow through all four points. Is it possible I just need to keep bleeding on one point, the right rear, until I am sure that I have completely run all air out of that line? I just can't believe that I am not getting any brake pedal pressure build up. I've bled the heck out the the thing. I'll try the tire stop test on the rear, but the front calipers hold well. I've never run in to this sort of problem before, but then I've never had a machine with such a fubared system. It seems to be acting like some one way valve that lets air in the system. While I agree about just replacing parts, it all seemed reasonable and logical to begin with, and with so many miles and years on the truck I figured I screwed up on the caliper replacement, but obviously the master cylinder had to be the problem and the booster failed an air tight test. Now, I just don't get what could be going on, or could be going on, however I imagine I'll eventually prevail.

:nuts: Mayday! I can't stop and can't seem to figure out what is wrong. Can anyone bail me out on this? 90 Comanche which I removed the rear height proportioning valve. Replaced the front calipers, master cylinder and booster! I researched all the great info on this subject and assumed the rear proportioning valve was originally at fault, or at least partly at fault, since I have 280K on my machine and I have never replaced the rear shoes! Yes, I bought the truck new so I know the rear shoes are original. Then, about two weeks ago, the front calipers started draging real bad and the wheels were buring hot so I figured the calipers needed replacing. Lord help me, this only seemed to create more problems and the brake pedal would go completely to the floor no matter how much I bled the lines. Anyways, I replaced the master cylinder and booster, but to no apparent avail! Now I do realize there is air in the line, but here is the crazy part, you bleed the system as normal but the brakes still keep going to the floor, so then, if you reverse the proceedure and go from the last place, the left hand front, and go back to the right front you get a blast of air, but only once. I am going to the junk yard to get a cherokee front porportioning valve. The only other thing I can think of is that the replacement calipers are somehow responsible, or, more likely, that stupid front proportioning valve has been the problem all along. Ideas anyone? :bowdown: