4" lift and rear prop valve

I am palnning the 4" lift out and was wondering what the best way to lengthen the rear prop vale rod? should I just make a 4" longer rod or can I flip the axle part that it mounts to upside down ( Pin up) to make up some length?

was has everyone else done?

Got rid of it.

Pete

did you swap in the xj Prop valve or just block off the old line?

I had kind hoped that I could tackle this project later after the lift is done and settled. If I wait should I tie the arm in the up position? or just let it flop? .

It has actualy been in both positions at diffrent times , I didnt notice any change in brakeing at all.

I just left mine hanging... It doesn't seem to do anything at all regardless of position. It might be broken or something...

I was going to get rid of it, but if it was already broke and not a problem, why fix it?

Stock position for an unloaded bed is about parallel to the ground.

I have had success with using the stock MJ combo valve (the thing up front isn't a "proportioning" valve perse), I have a 28 year old axle in the back with 28 year old brakes and I imagine that's why I don't have any issues with locking up the rear too fast. :D An XJ prop valve is probably the best solution.

Jeep on!

--Pete

My rear prop valve lines went last summer. I ran completely new lines fron the distribution block to the rear line, eliminating the return line as well as the prop valve all together. NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER!!!!

The Brake light did remain on on the dash.

I ran this for a couple months until I got my havds on a XJ prop valve. I plumbed that in. Its completely normal driving pickup. EVERYONE I have had locks the rear tires first if the bed is empty. To do so you really need to depress the brakes, its not dangerous or unpredictable AT ALL.

This is a '96 Dodge Dakota rear brake line. Its longer than the YJ line many recomend. The little clips on the hose is for the ABS line...The other hose is the axle vent line.

Here is a pic BEFORE I changed to the XJ valve. I eliminated the bottom line and used the "nose" line as rear brake line. I left the "return" line in place until I was certain everything would work as it should. I removed it with the XJ valve install.

CW

When I did away with mine, I left the reture line there, its just sitting there. The other line goes directly to the hose. It will lock the rear first, but it isnt unpredictable or anything. I don't have a brake light with mine.

The only thing that surprised me is on snow the rear sometimes wants to swap ends. Very easy to plan aorund it, (IE: don't brake in turns) or you can just pull the 4wd lever and theres no problems.

When I did away with mine, I left the reture line there, its just sitting there. The other line goes directly to the hose. It will lock the rear first, but it isnt unpredictable or anything. I don't have a brake light with mine.

 

The only thing that surprised me is on snow the rear sometimes wants to swap ends. Very easy to plan aorund it, (IE: don't brake in turns) or you can just pull the 4wd lever and theres no problems.

It isn't a return line. It's a bypass line.

The way you modified your system, you have full braking to the rear even with no load. That's why it like to swap end on you. You might have better performance if you use an XJ front combo valve, or put a Wilwood adustable proportioning valve in the line to your rear brakes.

I know, thats what most others and what the people above did. I will have a adjustable valve here soon.

i have a XJ dist valve for the front to fix that problem, but i was wondering if a regular bolt will work to "cap off" where the load sensor line went? i am just wanting to use the bolt as a temp fix to make sure the rest of my brake system is ok, until i can do the dakota line swap.

i have a XJ dist valve for the front to fix that problem, but i was wondering if a regular bolt will work to "cap off" where the load sensor line went? i am just wanting to use the bolt as a temp fix to make sure the rest of my brake system is ok, until i can do the dakota line swap.

NO I do not believe just a bolt will work. Most auto parts stores I have been in have a section with fittings, unions and plugs. get a brass plug from them.

CW

i have a XJ dist valve for the front to fix that problem, but i was wondering if a regular bolt will work to "cap off" where the load sensor line went? i am just wanting to use the bolt as a temp fix to make sure the rest of my brake system is ok, until i can do the dakota line swap.

 

NO I do not believe just a bolt will work. Most auto parts stores I have been in have a section with fittings, unions and plugs. get a brass plug from them.

 

CW

Thanks for the info! i didn't think the person a the parts store knew what they was talkin bout.