LA Jam Nuts

I recently purchased a used 8" Clayton LA setup that I am now putting in my Comanche. I have about 6" of lift instead of the 8" and because of this my main arms in the kit are too long. I can make them work if I take out the jam nuts. Is this a good idea or not? I'd rather not cut the setup up just to shorten it and I don't want to lift the Jeep any more (at this point in time).

Here in the pic you can see the adjustment in the arms is down to nothing, I have a few twists in them from them being bottomed out for now.

Also, for those that have done this before on an Cherokee or Comanche, should I completely cut out the old LCA buckets or cut just what I need for clearance and leave the rest for structural support?

Thanks, Brent

FWIW, every LA set-up I've seen has had the old LCA pockets completely ground off.

What's the issue with placing the axle a little further forward?

I havent tried it yet. To put them in, I took out the old LCA's and UCA's and let the springs determine where they wanted the axle to sit. I figured this way would be the best because it would put the least amount of stress on the springs in the back and forth direction. I guess I can try and put the axle farther forward but I am also worried about my front driveshaft length, I'm still running the stock one...

Here is another pic of just how far forward the axle sat with them almost bottomed out.

I have the stage 4 JCR Offroad XJ bumper on order so cutting the fronts of the fenders off is in the plans of things to happen soon.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1XJFST4&Category_Code=XJB

Cut all the LCA junk off

by removing the jam nuts how huch r u gona gane and if it is significant like an inch or somethn then cut the nut in half to compermise if not then leave it.

id personaly run the arms like that , it will keep the wheel outa the fender

also it looks like u could go up in the front at least 1.5-2 inchs / it looks silly all stinkbuged like that . lift it up and itl be perfect

id personaly run the arms like that , it will keep the wheel outa the fender

No it won't, it'll make it worse... There's a hump in the inner fender at the front. And it'll rub there like mad.

A guy can cut that off. But that's how things go downhill.

I know it looks goofy, but its to compensate for once I get some weight in the back of the truck. It sags pretty good as it is now with as little as 100 lbs in the back. I usually haul the wood for campfires on the trail, and I scrape my inner fenders as it is over bumps :mad: It'll look good once its all done I guarantee it.

That is sitting out there aways. I think I'd run em without the jam nut, but leave some thread so that that arms can wrist on the threads while flexing.

Honestly, I've never tightened the jam nuts on my arms.

Side note, are those Only the 4" Rusty's rear packs?

I wouldn't. Threads aren't ment to do that. It inevitably will lead to them wearing out. Especially if you can't grease the threads.

And it sucks if the threads fail.

I wouldn't. Threads aren't ment to do that. It inevitably will lead to them wearing out. Especially if you can't grease the threads.

 

 

And it sucks if the threads fail.

I agree...Why not call Clatons and get the answer form the man that builds them???

CW

My arms are Acme threads with a lube point, so I'm pretty sure they'll be fine with the pulling, but as C-dub said, call up Clayton! Can't find a better answer outside of that!

How bout this, weld a tab on each side of the arm from the nut welded to the arm to the nut welded to the joint. This will keep the joints from twisting and as long as I don't burn it in there, could be ground off easily to adjust them in the future. This way there is no hacking up of anything. I'm also going to try and throw in another spacer above the coil and boost it up some more to see if it helps...

Cut the sheetmetal and call it good :brows:

Cut the sheetmetal and call it good :brows:

He'd have to cut about as much as I did...

It's totally do-able if a guy is willing to mess around with it. And that's without bending any tube or anything else, just making new front inner fenders.