U-Joint Replacement Questions w/pics

[robfg67]

I picked-up a set of Federal-Mogul Precision Universal Joints from NAPA today to replace the old u-joints in the rear drive shaft.

 

I haven’t done this before, but I’ve read a few write-ups on this project and it doesn’t seam too difficult. But right out of the gates, I have these questions:

 

1. Inside one of the box flaps it reads: NOTICE: This unit must be fully lubricated upon installation. There is no grease fitting on these u-joints, but the caps are layered in grease. What does this notice mean? Do they want me to put more grease inside the caps?

 

2. One of the caps has a little hole in the center of it. You can see the grease oozing out of it. Why is that? Does that cap need to be in a particular position?

 

 

3. Each box has a package with 4 new rings and one small screw. This screw has a head on it that I have never seen before. Does that screw go into the cap with the hole in it? What type of head does it have?

 

I know the guys who have done this before must be laughing your a** off, but remember this is my first time!

 

 

 

 

[robfg67]

Oh, and one more question...

 

The drive shaft has four 5/16 bolts that hold it in place near the axle. The front on the shart nearest to the transfer case does not have those bolts. How does that disconnect?

 

Do I need to press the u-joint out of that side the shaft to release?

[mvusse]

Hard to tell from the picture, but that "screw" looks like a grease fitting. It is probably supposed to go into small hole in one of the caps.

 

Odd place for a grease fitting, though. usually they are on the body, which makes them hard to reach. Being on a cap make for much easier access.

[CWLONGSHOT]

Don't worry about the questions..

Your correct this is not a hard one.

 

The unit will come greased. The hole IS for a Zerk fitting so the joint can be greased again. Some applications will not allow the Zerk to stay installed. there are a couple different kinds of fittings and ways to get grease into the joint. For a drive shaft, the rear most joint, at the rear axle. You will likely be able to leave the Zerk in place. In front axle applications there is no room for it.

 

Here are a couple things to keep you out of trouble.

 

When you remove the caps. Be sure to have some grease handy and be sure NOT TO LOOSE any one the bearings. The bearings are standing up, shoulder to shoulder around the full circumference of each cap. Extra grease will keep these in place.

 

Once you get the old joint out. CLEAN each of the bores and lightly grease them.

 

CW

[robfg67]

So do I need to add more grease to each cap?

 

And how does the DS remove from the transfer case end???

[CWLONGSHOT]

So do I need to add more grease to each cap?

 

And how does the DS remove from the transfer case end???

 

Like I said, if you using it for the joint at the rear axle, You can grease it once its installed.

 

BUT, AS you install. or rather when you remove a cap. BE CAREFUL NOT To loose any bearings. adding a bit of grease to hold the bearings in place HELPS with assembly by holding the little pieces in place.

 

If your stock, the tail shaft of the T case just pulls out. BUT depending on your year you may loose some fluid. So have a basin handy to catch it.

 

CW

[robfg67]

Yes, my rig is stock.

 

So once I remove the 4 bolts and 2 metal straps from the axle end of the DS, do I just need to tug that end down until it dislodges?

 

Once dislodged, the DS should just pull out of the TC?

[CWLONGSHOT]

Yes, my rig is stock.

 

So once I remove the 4 bolts and 2 metal straps from the axle end of the DS, do I just need to tug that end down until it dislodges?

 

Once dislodged, the DS should just pull out of the TC?

 

Correct.

 

Are you replacing both joints? (If no... You really should.)

 

The rear joint only presses in to the drive shaft it self. the front joint presses into both the yoke and drive shaft. I would recomend you do the rear joint first to get the hang of it.

 

Are you doing it with a vice or a couple sockets on the floor/bench?

 

CW

[robfg67]

NAPA lent me the press kit. I had to leave a deposit of $375 on my credit card. I'll get the full amount credited to my card once returned.

 

I buddy just told me that once I have the bolts & straps off the axle end of the DS, I should take a large screwdriver against the yoke and force the DS forward towards the TC.

 

He said this will allow the DS to move about 1/4 inch towards the TC and the rear end will release. The DS can then be pulled away from the TC. I will have a pan ready for any fluid that drops from the TC. Lastly, he reminded me to make chalk marks on both ends of the DS so I can put it back in the SAME position it came out.

 

He added that I need to buy zerk fittings for the holes in the cap and fill them with grease after they are installed.

 

If he were'nt 70 years old, I'd ask him to come over to help.

[robfg67]

Oh, I do have a good sized vice to hold it all in place.

[ifixit8]

It's not that big of a install, I had to do it with a friend when I blew up the stockers on my mj. To make things easy we rented a u-joint removal tool from advance auto parts.

[robfg67]

..and I'm changing both u-joints. It's late now, so I will go back to NAPA tomorrow and get a couple of zerks and resume this project after work.

[robfg67]

My buddy also sugested I clean the yoke/flange assembly with an emory cloth 'til smooth and add some white lithium grease around the outside of the caps to help the u-joint go back in.

[CWLONGSHOT]

My buddy also suggested I clean the yoke/flange assembly with an Emery cloth 'til smooth and add some white lithium grease around the outside of the caps to help the u-joint go back in.

 

Good advice. Doesn't need to be lithium grease, the same stuff you use to grease the joint will work just fine.

 

As for removal, yes just push it forwards and the rear joint will come out of rear yoke. Then just push/pull to rear to remove complete drive shaft.

 

Good luck!!

 

CW

[robfg67]

Thanks CW!

 

I'm looking forward to this project.

[CWLONGSHOT]

:cheers:

[HOrnbrod]

..and I'm changing both u-joints. It's late now, so I will go back to NAPA tomorrow and get a couple of zerks and resume this project after work.

 

That's strange. Every greasable u-joint I've ever purchased, be the grease fitting in the cross frame or end cap, the grease fittings came with the joint. Sure the zerks are not in the u-joint box?

[CWLONGSHOT]

Me to...but who is to say it didnt fall out??

 

CW

[HOrnbrod]

Me to...but who is to say it didnt fall out?? CW

 

Good point. But I would definitely DEMAND (in a nice way of course) :D that the parts place give me free ones. :cheers:

[maddzz1]

He has the zerk. There is a picture of it in the bag with the c rings in his first post. Why did your friend say to get more? There is only one per u-joint I believe.

[HOrnbrod]

He has the zerk. There is a picture of it in the bag with the c rings in his first post. Why did your friend say to get more? There is only one per u-joint I believe.

 

Sure does - good eye. :thumbsup: Yes, there's only one grease fitting per joint. Hopefully he'll read more of this post before motoring down to the parts store tomorrow. :cheers:

[robfg67]

I did a little more research on this u-joint. There is a screw hole in one cap and one screw in the package. The manufacturer instructs the proper way to grease this u-joint is to use a needle nozzle adapter and then put the screw back in the hole.

 

I have a grease gun, but now I have to buy the needle nozzle.

 

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopC ... 54_pg5.htm

 

It's never easy!!!

[maddzz1]

Usually the only one that you need the pin nozzle for is the one in the cv joint.

[jaekl]

My 86 has a regular Zerk fiting on the front drive shaft. I loosen the straps to pull the joint out a little to get the grease gun in. You know 'by next time I'll have something better'. Well after 22 years of greasing it this way it's not worth it to change. I did replace the axle joints and they did have the the low profile fitting in one of the caps. However, 'by next time I'll find a zerk that will fit the 3/16 hole', install to grease and then replace.

[robfg67]

Jim, I have the u-joint displayed on this page and described in the last bullet point:

 

http://federal-mogul.com/en/Aftermarket ... hU-Joints/