JJtheJeepfan Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 so that being said, Id like to ask yall a question. Tomorrow I'm going to look at an 88 mj, not sure which package. The man was asking 650, but has since said that its not "running so smoothly" as it was three days ago. So he said that he would probably let it go for 500. My question is this...would I be foolish not to take cash and a trailer with me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 How much spare time do you have, and how deep are your pockets? Just Empty Every Pocket Eh? Otherwise, if you want a 'manche, go for it. Never hurts to look, haggle, and then walk away if nothing else. Make sure you get a good look under it, check all the fluids, and give it a test spin if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Depends. Personally, I would certainly take some cash (but somehow try to hide that I brought a trailer). But then, I can't say that the truck is worth $500 without knowing more about it. It could be worth less or more. A poor running engine could be a sensor, or it could be a hole in a piston. Normally I'd say rust would be a deciding factor, but I just spent $300 on an MJ with no floors. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJtheJeepfan Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 my dad asked me when I mentioned that I want a project 4x4 if I had more time than money, or more money than time. Since I have little of either I figure it will take me a while to get it going just the way I want it, but I figure I will go look either way. Maybe I can get him down to 300 or 400 just to get it gone. I was looking in the tech section, how hard is the 44 swap for the front axle? I only ask because it would be a ***** on my 2000 S-10 which is why I'm selling it. Just want to know what I'm getting into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Swapping a Dana 44 into the front is not easy, but you can swap in Dana-44-sized U-joints into the axle with very little effort. What size tires are you looking to run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJtheJeepfan Posted May 3, 2006 Author Share Posted May 3, 2006 whatever I manage to find cheap, be it a cj, mj, tj, xj, yj...I want to run at least 35 inch tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 It all depends on your idea of easy too... Can you weld? Anyways, you can dump money into the D30, but if you're going to go larger than 33's, it does NOT make sense. I learned an interesting thing yesterday, 297X (half-ton Ujoint) shafts share the same ears as 260X (1/4 ton Ujoints), so while the 297X is stronger, it's not by much as you break the ears instead of the ujoint. When I say share the same ears, they are the same other than the 297X style has a larger hole (making it even weaker). I think I'm going to just carry a bazillion 260X shafts and start saving my pennies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 Oh yeah, you can go front leaf springs relatively easily. You'll have to build a new front x-member to hold shackles. But it's easier than making the 5-link garbage work. (Sorry if I seem screwed, I'm still drunk from last night) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 It all depends on your idea of easy too... Can you weld? Anyways, you can dump money into the D30, but if you're going to go larger than 33's, it does NOT make sense. I learned an interesting thing yesterday, 297X (half-ton Ujoint) shafts share the same ears as 260X (1/4 ton Ujoints), so while the 297X is stronger, it's not by much as you break the ears instead of the ujoint. When I say share the same ears, they are the same other than the 297X style has a larger hole (making it even weaker). I think I'm going to just carry a bazillion 260X shafts and start saving my pennies. Dirty you know I agree with you 90% of the time, but this time I can't :nuts: I swapped in a setr of the yukon alloys and knock on wood (my head) I have yet to break any front axle parts since. Before then I was snapping at least one shaft a w/e when I went wheeling. You all have seen video of how I treat my rig, you be the judge if the alloys were a good choice. As for the difficulty of swapping in a D44. First you have to decide how big do you want to go :deal: Then decide on how you wheel your ig, and if you plan on upgrading engine or t-case in the future. If you plan on going bigger then a 36x12.5 on steel rims, I would think at least alloy axles in the D44, If you want to go bigger, spend the money on a D60 upfront. the cost difference between building a d60 and a d44 is miniumal, when you figure in gears swaps and suspension, and steering mods. Keep in mind that unless you have the front rotors drilled you wil need at least some kinda wheel adapter or new rims. It can get real expensive once you figure in everything you need. Currently just in axle and rims I am at over 500, and I still need to spend 2000 on gears and lockers, another 800 on alloys, and thats not including tires at 340 a piece :eek: Like I said it can snow ball and get real expensive. I got my fron and rear 60 at a steal, normally a front 60 or 44 goes anywhere from 300 and up depending on how complete they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJtheJeepfan Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 well it is all for naught, I specificly asked the guy if it was a 4x4 and he said yes. I get down there after driving an hour and as I start to crawl under to check it out....no diff on the front..its a 4x2...grrr...oh well. Welding - not yet, but thats on my list of things to learn this summer. Money - thats half the reason I want to buy a cheaper truck like the MJ. I have a specific set of this and parts I want my rig to have. It didnt make sense to me to shell out 4-5000 for a vehicle only to take everything off and change it. So...that said...I'm up for the spending, and what I don't know I will learn as I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumpy Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 well it is all for naught, I specificly asked the guy if it was a 4x4 and he said yes. I get down there after driving an hour and as I start to crawl under to check it out....no diff on the front..its a 4x2...grrr...oh well. Welding - not yet, but thats on my list of things to learn this summer. Money - thats half the reason I want to buy a cheaper truck like the MJ. I have a specific set of this and parts I want my rig to have. It didnt make sense to me to shell out 4-5000 for a vehicle only to take everything off and change it. So...that said...I'm up for the spending, and what I don't know I will learn as I go. 4x2 to 4x4 conversions can be done if you get the truck cheap enuf. :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Dirty you know I agree with you 90% of the time, but this time I can't :nuts: I swapped in a setr of the yukon alloys and knock on wood (my head) I have yet to break any front axle parts since. Before then I was snapping at least one shaft a w/e when I went wheeling. You all have seen video of how I treat my rig, you be the judge if the alloys were a good choice. I know you abused your D30 pretty hard, but how long do you think it realistically would have lasted before you had some horrendous failure, like breaking the inner Cs or shearing off the knuckles? I'm just saying that I think it makes more sense to start with something a little bigger (D44) and get a little more strength on a few other parts. You can get a D44 front out of pick'n'pull for $150cnd here (tax included), so initial purchusing cost is not much. Stock axle bracketry all blows anyways, now you've just got a really good excuse to redo it. Not to mention things like hubs and the potential to do junkyard highsteer. Besides, how often were you going through unit bearings :evil: And the whole "just get a D60 the first time" thing, well, let's not go there. He wants to run 35s, not 40s. well, at least a 35. Okay, he should just get a D60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJtheJeepfan Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 Well My grand dad fought in the big one. He would tell me that all the crap about one shot and then move on is insane. You can never make something dead enough. Hmmmm....I think Ive wandered a bit...anyways what I mean is this: I was taught not to believe in overkill. better to have too strong than not strong enough right? For another silly analogy. When I got in to fish keeping I started with a ten gallon tank. Now I have 15 tanks total in my house and am looking into opening a store. Lesson? you never know where your going when you start down an innocent little road. I think I will attempt to procure 60's when I find my MJ. Now the next question is...has anyone argued for a specific tire size? I mean 35 to me seems to be big enough that it can go through and over most crap, but still 100$ a wheel cheaper than 40+. Also with Michigans stupid lift laws, I'm not sure I could put much bigger than a 35 on this truck and keep it street legal. And that is Another thing I'm shooting for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attaboybob Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Besides, how often were you going through unit bearings :evil: I don't mean to hijack this thread. But, where do you guys get your unit bearings. I went through two in a year from NAPA. ...BOB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 Tires are like tits; the bigger the better. Okay, you didn't hear me say that. Honestly, it depends what you wheel and what you like. I'll probably not go larger than 35s for quite some time. I'm going to focus on making the truck comfortable with 35s. I don't wheel like Pat, who basically drives like he's got a horseshoe up his @$$ (no offense). But, there's a little thing called inchitis, the constant urge to go bigger. And it's a time/money relationship too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJtheJeepfan Posted May 4, 2006 Author Share Posted May 4, 2006 LOL I like you guys, I'm gonna have to make sure to buy an MJ now, just so I have a good reason to hang around here. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted May 4, 2006 Share Posted May 4, 2006 4x2 to 4x4 conversions can be done if you get the truck cheap enuf. :brows: Yup, sure can. Plus you get the added bonus of building it the way you want to, not the way it came off the line.... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 What do you mean.. " I drive like I got a horshoe up my @$$" :dunno: I drive it like it is stolen or borrowed :banana: 35 would be fine in most situations, except for the fact that all the guys I trail ride with are running 38's and larger :huh???: So I catch a lot of grief for being the "lil guy" :roll: But also my wheeling style is make it or break it method :evil: BTW I don't have the constant urge to go bigger, I just want to be th biggest :deal: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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