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Posted

A family member has been wanting something to drive on the beach during the fall/ winter months, when it's allowed by permit. She's sent me a multitude of FB Marketplace ads for everything under the sun other than something Jeep. One or two I was willing to look at but they sold quicker than I could get there to look them over. I'd said a few times "you just need to find a used Cherokee, it would be perfect." Her response every time was "Jeeps are junk." Then she drove my MJ back toward the end of August... and maybe Jeeps aren't junk after all.

 

2001 XJ Sport 4WD/ AW4 with a blown up Dana 35 - $1000.00. Engine was replaced in 2016, probably due to a cracked head/ ensuing issues.

 

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Posted

Labor Day weekend a nearby LKQ yard had a 2000 XJ with a 29-spline Chrysler 8.25 under it. Everything was 1/2 off that weekend so I scooped it up for $100.

 

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I put about 30 hours into it last week from Sunday-Sunday and got it redone...

 

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Everything but the wheel studs, plus all new brake hardware and parking brake cables. Just need to assemble the brakes. If the 9" drums on the D35 are decent I'll re-use them, or just replace them if not. Backlash is a pitch perfect 6.5/1000ths, pattern is excellent.

Posted

New brake lines made from AGS PAC-325 roll left over from the MJ (Poly Armor Coated 3/16") with Stop Shop gravel guard. I can see I'd like to replace the other lines on the Jeep in the next 6 months as well.

 

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New Iron Rock Offroad plates and u-bolts, the most expensive part of the axle swap ($119 with shipping).

 

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Front sway bar links rattle they're so bad. I have a new pair each for stock XJ/MJ, TJ and V8 ZJ. I'll see which is the best fit for the 3" lift that's on it. Track bar has a tiny bit of wiggle, so does the drag link, so those are on the short list. Next spring, Core 4x4 arms. There should be a number of minor issues/ fixes I can address before then.

Posted
1 hour ago, JZLAJeep said:

Looks like some successful bargain shopping!

 

I'd say so! She's pretty excited and I'm happy for her. :smile:

Posted
12 hours ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

What paint did you use?

 

For this one I used a pretty basic Rustoleum spray enamel. Since this rig will see a considerable amount of salt exposure I wanted something easy to maintain with readily available inexpensive paint. Any rust that creeps in in the future would be easy to address and then re-coat. The longest bit of work was peening the nodular iron center section to get all the rust layer off down to clean metal. I normally wouldn't bother coating the yoke but I thought it would be a good idea given its environment.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yesterday was the day to haul the axle down to the coast and get it swapped. The rear brake line came off without drama, thank goodness. I spent some time cleaning up the leaf springs and drums and coated them with VHT Chassis & Rollbar paint. The drums are almost new (score). I had assumed the 3" lift was a cheap front springs with add a leaf in the rear. Turns out they're Zone Offroad 3" springs in the back. A couple steps better than Rough Country anyway.

 

I like to "Black Max" my u-joints...

 

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The original driveshaft had about 1/2" of engagement at the slip yoke on the Dana 35 with that lift :eek:. With the 8.25 it's perfect. I'd read that the D35 -  8.25 swap with a 3" lift requires nothing if you have the D35 shaft. Truth.

 

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I got a late start at 2:00 but had it mounted and torqued, with driveshaft attached, by sundown. I'll head back to install the parking brake cables and drum hardware probably next week.

 

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Posted

Rear ride height is exactly 3" over stock number in the back. My understanding is that these were installed around 2016-2017 not long after the engine was replaced. So they've settled and are holding 3" above stock. Not bad, word is these springs are stock-like ride quality.

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