bhorocks Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 doing some simple measuring and wonder if anyone has this info. is the ax5 with np207 9.25" longer than a 2wd ax5? that seems to be what my measurment shows. want to pre-size my dshaft so i can just swap trans and stab the shaft in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 doing some simple measuring and wonder if anyone has this info. is the ax5 with np207 9.25" longer than a 2wd ax5? that seems to be what my measurment shows. want to pre-size my dshaft so i can just swap trans and stab the shaft in. you have a 4 cylinder shortbed? talk to geonovast, he just did the thing and got the correct measurements first try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 yup. 4cyl shortbed. think my shaft will need to be 49.25 not including slip yoke. lets see if he posts up! that would be nice! i'll pm if need be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 yup. 4cyl shortbed. think my shaft will need to be 49.25 not including slip yoke. lets see if he posts up! that would be nice! i'll pm if need be! pm him just to be sure. no kidding, last weekend we did this swap :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 yeah i was just reading his build. did he use a stock front dshaft from a cherokee after getting rid of the CV flange? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 yeah i was just reading his build. did he use a stock front dshaft from a cherokee after getting rid of the CV flange? 2.8 ax5 comanche front driveshaft. which is the same anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 yeah i was just reading his build. did he use a stock front dshaft from a cherokee after getting rid of the CV flange? 2.8 ax5 comanche front driveshaft. which is the same anyways bummer... I left the 2.8 front dshaft at the junkyad cuz it felt weak.. Might just go back and get it for the meantime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 When we originally measured, we got the 4wd Ax-5 with NP207 was 11 inches longer than the 2wd tranny. That's why I had the shop chop off 11 inches from the d/s. Another bit of advice, if your current setup is an internal slave, I highly recommend converting to an external slave setup. I bought an entire clutch kit when I did mine, since I was having the tranny out anyway, and the clutch in the truck was getting tired. Clutch kit was $170 from carquest. (I actually had to order a kit for a 2.8, since the 2.5 kit was waaaaay wrong.) And I got a brand new slave for $47 from a local parts store. It's worth it, if you ever have slave problems or a leaky line, the trans won't have to come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 interesting.. but i think the difference is mine was a ax5 not an ax4. it looked like my lenght difference was 9.25 inches. either way the advice is well taken and will certainly come in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 The Ax-4 and Ax-5 are literally completely identical transmissions, other than the Ax-4 is simply missing the 5th gear parts. Case is identical, so therefore a 2wd Ax-4 and Ax-5 are going to the same length, and a 4wd Ax-4 and 4wd Ax-5 are also going to be the same length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 cool thanks for the info. i was also going to convert to the external to make my life that much easier. I already replaced the internal once and don't want to do it a second time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbliley Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 You may be comparing apples and oranges. Is one of the MJ's lifted and one stock. That would explain the 1.5" difference. plus you would do just as well to just measure after its done and do the shaft right in the begining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 You may be comparing apples and oranges. Is one of the MJ's lifted and one stock. That would explain the 1.5" difference. plus you would do just as well to just measure after its done and do the shaft right in the begining. X2. Finish the lift, get all the running gear in, then measure. Tom Woods has a good procedure for doing this on his site. He'll be happy to help ya too. That's what I did with mine. Better doing it this way as you can allow for more slip yoke spline engagement too (if you're not going SYE). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 You may be comparing apples and oranges. Is one of the MJ's lifted and one stock. That would explain the 1.5" difference. plus you would do just as well to just measure after its done and do the shaft right in the begining. X2. Finish the lift, get all the running gear in, then measure. Tom Woods has a good procedure for doing this on his site. He'll be happy to help ya too. That's what I did with mine. Better doing it this way as you can allow for more slip yoke spline engagement too (if you're not going SYE). funny thing is in a previous post i told a guy to do the same thing.. lift them measure.. here i am trying to have it done beforehand. :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 You may be comparing apples and oranges. Is one of the MJ's lifted and one stock. That would explain the 1.5" difference. plus you would do just as well to just measure after its done and do the shaft right in the begining. X2. Finish the lift, get all the running gear in, then measure. Tom Woods has a good procedure for doing this on his site. He'll be happy to help ya too. That's what I did with mine. Better doing it this way as you can allow for more slip yoke spline engagement too (if you're not going SYE). funny thing is in a previous post i told a guy to do the same thing.. lift them measure.. here i am trying to have it done beforehand. :nuts: Since my old driveshaft could not be balanced (my local shop said the rubber sheath was decomposed and shifting around), I got a new one from Tom. HD greasable u-joints, YJ Spicer slip yoke, and shipped to the door for $220. Stronger and lighter than the old one. Thought this was a pretty good deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Geonovast's measurements are from the bottom of the bellhousing (the little drain lip there) to the tip of the output shaft (not the tip of the seal, the tip of the shaft...that's very important) I'd say do the swap and lift it to where it belongs, then drive it in (cut a coke can in half and tape it around the output) to the driveshaft shop and have them do the measurements...you will get the exact shaft you need that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 "I'd say do the swap and lift it to where it belongs, then drive it in (cut a coke can in half and tape it around the output) to the driveshaft shop and have them do the measurements" Coke can? local driveshaft shop? You must be from 'Bama. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 "I'd say do the swap and lift it to where it belongs, then drive it in (cut a coke can in half and tape it around the output) to the driveshaft shop and have them do the measurements" Coke can? local driveshaft shop? You must be from 'Bama. :cheers: well, a water bottle works too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 seriously though, there are pretty local driveshaft builders almost everywhere (they do more than driveshafts, but they can do driveshafts) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 seriously though, there are pretty local driveshaft builders almost everywhere (they do more than driveshafts, but they can do driveshafts) Pretty driveshaft builders huh?? Do more then make driveshaft too, huh?? I think I'll leave that one alone.................. :rotf: :rotfl2: :teehee: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 seriously though, there are pretty local driveshaft builders almost everywhere (they do more than driveshafts, but they can do driveshafts) Pretty driveshaft builders huh?? Do more then make driveshaft too, huh?? I think I'll leave that one alone.................. :rotf: :rotfl2: :teehee: it's all about the power of the dollar :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share Posted January 16, 2008 seriously though, there are pretty local driveshaft builders almost everywhere (they do more than driveshafts, but they can do driveshafts) well i hope the coke can trick will work.. other than that The Pretty Driveshaft shop guys told me i could get it anodized purple for $350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 seriously though, there are pretty local driveshaft builders almost everywhere (they do more than driveshafts, but they can do driveshafts) There are no "pretty" local shaft builders (oops :D ) here, mostly they are basically incompetent. Maybe you got some pretty shaft guys in WI? :D Seriously, redneck engineering aside, which sometimes works in some cases, driveshafts, like gear changes, IMHO, should be trusted to the proven experts. Not saying you have to buy their product, only seek their advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 I had the spare 2wd shaft shortened, balanced, painted, and it got new joints, and it came to $102. I've heard of places charging upwards of $300 for a chop and balance...so try not to get ripped off. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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