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2.5 Fixer Upper (new to Comanches)


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8 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

When’s the last time this MJ ran and was on the road?

What color is the coolant?

Sure! haha. I have no idea when it officially ran and was on the road running good, the tag that is on it currently is from 2016 so at least 8 years ago. However it does run and drive without the MAP plugged in, just very poorly. I've gotten it up to 3rd gear through its spits and sputters. I believe its still green. The radiator is full but the overflow is empty. 

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1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said:

Hmmmm. If damn near everything electrical and vac related checks out, I’d do a compression test and make sure the head gasket hasn’t failed from sitting. 

Well It definitely has a cracked or leaking diaphram leaking from in the brake booster and i need to start replacing vac hoses throughout as prolly more than 50% of them are dry rotted but as stated before, I just wanna do the bare minimum to get it running as this current drivetrain isnt staying. But I would not be surprised if the headgasket is shot and I'm pretty sure piston one rings are smoked. As of now, no coolant in the oil from the hand full of times I've ran it.

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4 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Head gasket on these wouldn’t let coolant in the oil but more coolant in the combustion chamber. I’d definitely get vac lines replaced. Now unplugging the brake booster would yield a high idle. 

Ah okay, interesting. When I replaced the plugs they werent wet with coolant although plug one had a lil oil on it but that could be from the valve cover gasket as its seen better days or from smoked rings. I'm gonna try and get as many hoses replaced as I have time for this weekend.

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3 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

Forgive me if we already went over this, but you’re not running eight year old gas, are you?

Haha no, it was relatively empty, pretty much in the red line and I tried to drain as much as I could out without dropping the tank. I added 10 gallons of new and a can of seafoam.

 

Also a general update, I replaced the rubber block with 4 hoses and still no dice, I’m at a loss here as to why the MAP sensor, when the vacuum is plugged in, will cause the Jeep to not run. When vac is unplugged it starts and will even drive. I’m gonna grab a voltmeter tomorrow and go over sensors again. Does anyone have an electrical diagram for under the hood? I’ve noticed that I have a few plugs that either have dummy plugs in them or are just open so I’m wondering some are for options I don’t have or something.

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11 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

The only dummy plug I can think of is for AC. 
i have an 86 diagram, I’ll snap some pics. 
Have you checked the EGR? Make sure it’s not stuck open 

It looks fairly new but I have not, I’ve also read up a little bit about how they operate. Care to explain what I should look for on it?

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If you reach into the holes of the EGR and push up while it’s running, the engine will choke and sputter. If the EGR is stuck open, then there’s part of the problem. If it’s closed, then it’s good and that’s not the vac leak. 

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2 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

If you reach into the holes of the EGR and push up while it’s running, the engine will choke and sputter. If the EGR is stuck open, then there’s part of the problem. If it’s closed, then it’s good and that’s not the vac leak. 

Ah okay gotcha, what does it look like when stuck open? Hence I can’t keep it running long enough as is to check that. Like I said in other posts, the map sensor plugged in to vac prevents it from running. Also tried unplugging it electrically and it won’t even start.

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The MAP unplugged electrically and not running is correct. That circuit is a good. 
It doesn’t look like anything as you can’t really see it open and close but you can feel it with the engine off. If you push up on the diaphragm and it doesn’t move, then it’s stuck. If it does move, it probably is fine. 

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6 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

The MAP unplugged electrically and not running is correct. That circuit is a good. 
It doesn’t look like anything as you can’t really see it open and close but you can feel it with the engine off. If you push up on the diaphragm and it doesn’t move, then it’s stuck. If it does move, it probably is fine. 

Okay, will check either tomorrow or Monday and report back. The throttle body rebuild came in today.

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Alrighty, got the throttle body cleaned inside and out, resealed the whole thing and even cleaned the bolt heads and threads. I replaced the TPS and double checked the plunger on the EGR and it seems to working fine. So far, no change. I will say that it runs significantly better now when it does run but I have to give it throttle to stay running but it’ll eventually die out and backfire. 

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19 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Back fire? Timing could be off. 

Yea not like a bad backfire but it does do a little bit when I try to feed it too much gas. I unplugged the vacuum going to the map to get it to start and tried plugging it back in to see if it would run but once the vacuum is connected it immediatly starts to die. I’m leaning more towards the map. I verified the hard line going to the soft line is not clogged and as stated above, I cleaned the TB inside and out, maybe the MAP I got is no good? Wouldn’t be the first time.

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10 minutes ago, I_s2k said:

Yea not like a bad backfire but it does do a little bit when I try to feed it too much gas. I unplugged the vacuum going to the map to get it to start and tried plugging it back in to see if it would run but once the vacuum is connected it immediatly starts to die. I’m leaning more towards the map. I verified the hard line going to the soft line is not clogged and as stated above, I cleaned the TB inside and out, maybe the MAP I got is no good? Wouldn’t be the first time.

I should also say that the backfire only happened when I was trying to keep it running with the vacuum plugged into the MAP.

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