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Crankshaft Position Sensor or Camshaft Position Sensor, how to replace?


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  • KANTANKRUS changed the title to Crankshaft Position Sensor or Camshaft Position Sensor, how to replace?

You have no camshaft position sensor. 

 

Here's something to look at also.

 

 

RENIX CPS TESTING AND ADJUSTING

CPS drill mod

CPS location

Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.

Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.

The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.

Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS itself as shown in Figure 2 as Connector A, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.

You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.

If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from NAPA or the dealer.

Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.

A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8″ from the stock 5/16″, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

Another little tip to save tons of aggravation is to stick a bit of electrical tape to your 11mm socket and then shove the bolt in after it. This reduces the chances of dropping that special bolt into the bell housing. CPS bolt socket

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for confirming - (and for your valuable contributions to the group). Sorry for missing the info already provided.  I have an NTK coming, and I'll see what I get out of it, then if it's still low, make the adjustment.  I used the electrician's tape - works good.  I also tied a length of dental floss to the bolt when I started the bolt from the top. That doesn't keep you from dropping it, but you can get it if you do.

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On 9/28/2023 at 4:56 AM, cruiser54 said:

Look back 2 posts. You can modify the output. 

I opened up the upper hole to 3/8" and the output increased slightly - to .26VAC, from .24.  Does it make sense to try to get the tip of the sensor closer yet to get to .5?  Do you know the optimal clearance?  I can't tell if the plastic cover is keeping it from getting closer, but it might be.  I could go slightly bigger than 3/8 and/or trim the sensor mounting plate and square boss where it interferes with plastic cover, then stick a paper spacer of the right thickness on the tip to deliver best gap.20231004122838118.jpg.590fb16d2c847b086b26d19b1dc2b056.jpg

CPS1.jpg

20231004091706974.jpg

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