Duncan Moody

I found one through the Facebook group Jeep Renix USA.

Looking for a complete wiring harness for 1989 MJ Pioneer long bed, 4.0L, auto trans, A/C. Does anyone have one, or could you please point be to a good source?

Glad it's solved, and appreciate you posting the update. What make CTS did you finally use?

Did you figure this out?

OHM: I saw on another post that you mentioned that if the CPS is too close to the flexplate it confuses it. I have been trying to get it as close as possible without touching, like .010" to get higher voltage signal. Too close? I assume it's hard to quantify a clearance distance due to the variation between sensors.

Nice work! I improvised with weather stripping, doublesided tape adhesive, and gardening kneeling pads! Not going to open it up and try again though. Hopefully never have to do that again.

Ohm: Thanks. Using a voltmeter or 12vdc testlight (preferred) check for Battery_Voltage_(B+) on the following pins (use battery_negative terminal for ground): D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) Yes, 12.4V (Same as battery) D1_6: At KEY ON only (B+ (Hot for 2-3 seconds)). Yes, 12.4. During CRANK Hot at all times. Yes, 11V during crank D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON and Hot during CRANK). Yes, 12.0V on, and 11V during crank acfortier: Thanks. The 2 connectors on the ICM base are tight, no signs of corrosion. I'll try to test it tomorrow.

I am hoping to get guidance on next steps to solve my crank, no start problem. I am still optimistic it's something simple that I have missed, not done, or not done right, but I don't know what that is. With help from this group and Mostly Renix on FB, I have ruled out a lot, especially related to the sensor itself, and the signal it produces. Here's what I have, what I have tried, and some data. Any tips or direction will be greatly appreciated, including if you know of a knowledgeable person or shop in the SF Bay Area who can help directly. Thanks. 1989 Comanche Pioneer, 4L, 4x4, Automatic Transmission. (No C101 connector). REM II says CPS Crank Fault. Since it won't run, I am not sure what other useful data REM II can provide. Finally got a CPS installed and positioned to get .695VAC at the sensor connector, and .678VAC backprobing at the ECU connector. Swapped 89 ECU with 88 ECU. Still no change. Ran homerun from CPS to ECU. Did the applicable Cruiser54 tips; 1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 29. New Starter relay and switch. (That solved a temporary no crank condition. I could jump the starter to start it then). New ICM. Ran smoothly and strong before it quit, and also whenever I could get it to start and run. Went through several CPS's; some worked for a while (days/weeks), others not at all. Battery at 12.6V min. Discharged/cleared electrical between tests. (touched black and red when off battery). Attempted to take oscilloscope readings on CPS signal, but was unable to get good readings. I assume I did not have it set up right. Problems started ~6 months after a rebuilt motor was installed a year ago, but not sure how that would contribute. New CPS and new Flexplate (Pioneer FRA333) then, but it ran fine for months before the CPS issues began. Intermittent at first, and temporarily fixed too.

Thank you!

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Looking for details on how to do a home run from CPS to ECU. 1989 4.0 AT. I have no C101. Is it a matter of tracing the wire colors (or continuity) from CPS back to ECU, run new wires through fire wall, then cut and solder at the ECU connector? I could not find ECU connector diagram identifying the CPS connections.

Are 1988 and 1989 ECU's essentially the same? If an '88 ECU is used in an '89 Comanche would there be any issues, if so what?

I opened up the upper hole to 3/8" and the output increased slightly - to .26VAC, from .24. Does it make sense to try to get the tip of the sensor closer yet to get to .5? Do you know the optimal clearance? I can't tell if the plastic cover is keeping it from getting closer, but it might be. I could go slightly bigger than 3/8 and/or trim the sensor mounting plate and square boss where it interferes with plastic cover, then stick a paper spacer of the right thickness on the tip to deliver best gap.

Thanks for confirming - (and for your valuable contributions to the group). Sorry for missing the info already provided. I have an NTK coming, and I'll see what I get out of it, then if it's still low, make the adjustment. I used the electrician's tape - works good. I also tied a length of dental floss to the bolt when I started the bolt from the top. That doesn't keep you from dropping it, but you can get it if you do.

Having very intermittent/random stalling problem. Starts and runs fine then completely dies on the road, won't restart immediately, then starts right up again after sitting 5 - 10 minutes. Replaced CPS 2X, both brands (Standard and OMIX/ADA) both had less than .25VAC output. Per Cruiser54's valuable tips, I should be seeing .5VAC, or at least above .35. Does modifying one of the CPS mounting holes and moving it closer to the flywheel increase output voltage? Does anyone know a specific brand (part number if possible) that gives the correct voltage and a source? Thanks. 1989 MJ Pioneer, 4.0L, Auto Trans.

Have you found a source for a CPS that has .5VAC output? I've tried 2 brands, both are under .25VAC. (For '89 Pioneer/4.0/AT).

Closing the loop, I added JKS adjustable sway bar end links, and all seems happy now. Thanks again for the input everyone.

Thanks! I appreciate the info.

Thanks for the input. There is a jog left-right in the link shaft, but not front to back - except the left side link which was bent at the upper mounting point toward the spring by force. More pics...

Thank you both. Makes sense. I'll investigate those further. Here are a few more photos that shows the setup. I think the end of the link is bent rather than reversed, but I will check. Sorry some are upside-down - couldn't fix... Duncan

The top ends of the sway bar end links are hitting the coil springs, and I am looking for input on the cause and how to correct it. Bent the top of the link and chewed up the bushings. Sway bar mount is adjusted as far forward as screw slots allow. I've seen longer links on other vehicles that bring the sway bar up and away from the spring. Is that a reasonable solution? Sway bar with shorter arms? Something else? Thanks 1989 Pioneer long bed. 4.5" lift installed by previous owner.

Has anyone found a direct replacement evaporator for the dealer installed (1988/89) smaller evaporator? Or one that will fit in the smaller box with newer fittings for a new expansion valve? PO pulled out most of original AC system. Trying to reinstall with all new if possible. Evaporator is the only roadblock at this point.