No run condition

[Glenn Bint]

Fuel pump runs continuously even after priming. No injection activity.  I think I might have shorted something out trying to connect some DRL’s.  had ign on, looking for power source when fuel pump fired up. I knew I screwed up something.  Where is a good place to start? 2.5 87. 

[eaglescout526]

So when you turn on the key, the pump doesn’t run for 2 seconds? It just keeps going and going? Sounds like power is going where it shouldn’t be. Or the relay is shorted and just stuck on.

 

Well let’s start at what you were doing. Installing DRL. Ok. What did you poke and touch when looking for a constant power wire?

[Glenn Bint]

Pulled a power source from one of the test connectors under plastic cover. Largest connector. No longer have power at that source.  Shorted something. Possible hidden fuse somewhere?

[Glenn Bint]

No spark and no fuel 

[eaglescout526]

Might have to test the fusible links at the starter relay and see if you accidentally blew one open. 

[Glenn Bint]

So… loss of power at source where black wire goes into large connector resulted in no fuel injection and no spark. Applied a jumper from smaller connector with power when ignition on. Running fine now. Would love to find the power source to the red wire again.  

[Glenn Bint]

Tested links as you suggested. All seem to have power. At least half way down the links.  Where do they normally burn?

[eaglescout526]

The fuses are in a little encapsulated piece of rubber that looks like a stopper and would have one or two wires coming out of it. That’s weird that you suddenly have no power. Have you checked all your relays make sure they work. 

[Glenn Bint]

Ohm metered the fuseable links all good 

[Glenn Bint]

All the relays I know of.  As soon as I add an additional power source it runs perfectly. Just have to source where the power to the red wire on the large test connector comes from.  

[cruiser54]

Cavity 4. Yellow wire to ignition switch. 

[Glenn Bint]

That diagram is going to be a great help👍. You must have a dealer manual.  

[Ωhm]

17 hours ago, Glenn Bint said:

Where is a good place to start? 2.5 87. 

 

[cruiser54]

[cruiser54]

#4 pink wire latch feed

[Glenn Bint]

So, what is a latch feed and how would you go about getting its power back?  I can hear the latch relay click when power applied. Where does latch feed power originate from?  Many thanks. You’re really helpful and knowledgeable.  

[Glenn Bint]

As I’ve said earlier, I’ve got my 2.5 running by providing power to pink wire from ign source, but would really like to restore power from its original source.  

[GrandBoost98]

Kind of sounds like my issue. If thats the case, it turned out to be my ECU
 

 

[Glenn Bint]

Oops

[Ωhm]

Using a voltmeter or 12vdc testlight (preferred) check for Battery_Voltage (B+) on the following pin (use battery_negative terminal for ground):

 

D1_5:  B+ (Hot at all times)

 

 

 

 

 

Determine which Relay is the B+Latch Relay. Check for HOT AT ALL TIMES on PIN_1 (RED). PIN_4 & PIN_5 should have PINK wires. Pink should help with relay ID.

 

 

[Glenn Bint]

Yep.  It’s pin D4 I’m trying to get power to.  

[Ωhm]

35 minutes ago, Glenn Bint said:

Yep.  It’s pin D4 I’m trying to get power to.  

 

Is that pin_4 on the relay?

[Glenn Bint]

No   D2 pin 4. 

[Ωhm]

Take them two (2) measurements mentioned above. 

D1_5 and C215_1 (remove relay) should show HOT AT ALL TIMES.

[Glenn Bint]

Thanks will do as soon as I’m home. Keep you posted.