Studs

[Joe Dirt]

Any1 have the part number for  longer wheel studs so i can feel safe running my new canyons. It has aluminum wheels on it now n i have heart attack everyday. This is what i have now. Same result when i test fit my canyons. The closed ends still only catch about the same amount. The button pushers at advance auto can't help. I know you guys can. Thanks.

[dante2]

I had the same issue on the YJ when I switched from steel to aluminum wheels. Did some searching and found these. I been running them for over a year with no issues.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113272360963

[gogmorgo]

Did they give you options for studs at all? Generally speaking if they only have one size listed they’ll be good for aluminum wheels.

But also I’ve been running aluminum wheels for five years on my steel-wheeled base ZJ on the original studs, and it hasn’t been a problem. 

 

This is a regular 1/2-20 grade 8 next to a conical lug nut. They both have threads the whole way down. As long as you have thread engagement through the cone you’re not losing out on much clamping strength. 

[Joe Dirt]

1 hour ago, gogmorgo said:

Did they give you options for studs at all? Generally speaking if they only have one size listed they’ll be good for aluminum wheels.

But also I’ve been running aluminum wheels for five years on my steel-wheeled base ZJ on the original studs, and it hasn’t been a problem. 

 

This is a regular 1/2-20 grade 8 next to a conical lug nut. They both have threads the whole way down. As long as you have thread engagement through the cone you’re not losing out on much clamping strength. 

Even my open ends are 60°

[Joe Dirt]

4 hours ago, dante2 said:

I had the same issue on the YJ when I switched from steel to aluminum wheels. Did some searching and found these. I been running them for over a year with no issues.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113272360963

I know for xj's there's like 3 different lengths of studs but dude at counter , well ya know how that goes

[gogmorgo]

Yup. I talk to parts people every day. You tell them what part you need, for which vehicle. They come back with one or more options. Then you go through and choose which is best for you. Same as if you’re looking up your own parts on Rockauto or otherwise. Sometimes you can open up the part and view specs, sometimes you can’t.

If they only give one option, great, get those, just don’t do anything to prevent you from returning them until you’ve confirmed they’ll do what you want.

If they give you a couple options, ask about length. If they can’t find it, write down manufacturers and part numbers and Google them. If you can’t find it specifically, maybe the manufacturer has a spec document you can go through.

Or you can look up parts numbers yourself, whether on RockAuto or maybe find the manufacturer they're using and hunt through their online catalog until you find something that’ll work. Or better yet, find whatever manufacturer’s spec list you want and find some application that’ll fit what you want. Maybe studs for a 2003 Liberty are exactly what you need. In which case you go ask for those. 

If you walk in ask for whatever crazy combo to make stuff from different vehicles work together, you’re going to get an answer as dumb as what you just fed them. Because their catalog system is set up only to look up OEM equivalent parts for unmodified vehicles, and it’s not going to do anything else. If you’re modifying things, you’re going to be the one doing the legwork.

[PCO6]

20 hours ago, Joe Dirt said:

Any1 have the part number for  longer wheel studs so i can feel safe running my new canyons. It has aluminum wheels on it now n i have heart attack everyday. This is what i have now. Same result when i test fit my canyons. The closed ends still only catch about the same amount. The button pushers at advance auto can't help. I know you guys can. Thanks.

 

I've replaced mine with Dorman studs #610-449 from Rock Auto. RockAuto 

 

 Although it's not absolutely necessary, I used a Lisle installation tool #22800 ... More Information for LISLE 22800 (rockauto.com) .   

[Joe Dirt]

3 hours ago, PCO6 said:

 

I've replaced mine with Dorman studs #610-449 from Rock Auto. RockAuto 

 

 Although it's not absolutely necessary, I used a Lisle installation tool #22800 ... More Information for LISLE 22800 (rockauto.com) .   

1.39" of thread still doesn't sound like enough. You're running aluminum wheels? Thanks.

[Joe Dirt]

14 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

Yup. I talk to parts people every day. You tell them what part you need, for which vehicle. They come back with one or more options. Then you go through and choose which is best for you. Same as if you’re looking up your own parts on Rockauto or otherwise. Sometimes you can open up the part and view specs, sometimes you can’t.

If they only give one option, great, get those, just don’t do anything to prevent you from returning them until you’ve confirmed they’ll do what you want.

If they give you a couple options, ask about length. If they can’t find it, write down manufacturers and part numbers and Google them. If you can’t find it specifically, maybe the manufacturer has a spec document you can go through.

Or you can look up parts numbers yourself, whether on RockAuto or maybe find the manufacturer they're using and hunt through their online catalog until you find something that’ll work. Or better yet, find whatever manufacturer’s spec list you want and find some application that’ll fit what you want. Maybe studs for a 2003 Liberty are exactly what you need. In which case you go ask for those. 

If you walk in ask for whatever crazy combo to make stuff from different vehicles work together, you’re going to get an answer as dumb as what you just fed them. Because their catalog system is set up only to look up OEM equivalent parts for unmodified vehicles, and it’s not going to do anything else. If you’re modifying things, you’re going to be the one doing the legwork.

Thanks for the advice. I never think of other model jeeps like liberty or commander. I'm so tunnel visioned on mj/xj or grand cherokee. Thanks again. 

[Joe Dirt]

I found some studs from another forum.  They're 3" I'm thinking for a 3" stud there's some axle pulling to get em installed. Or i can cut them down to length i need. I'm gonna get my wheels prepped, painted, and tires mounted. Thanks for the advice every1.

[Eagle_SX4]

I know that the front xj front studs are longer than the rear ones. Rear studs DORMAN 610364 thread length .96. Front studs Dorman 610109 thread length 1.595. the fronts have a slightly bigger spline but will still pull through the hub.

[PCO6]

4 hours ago, Joe Dirt said:

1.39" of thread still doesn't sound like enough. You're running aluminum wheels? Thanks.

 

Yes, Turbines.  They clear the lug nuts (short height) by a 1/4".   This is for the rears.   My fronts were fine. 

[gogmorgo]

Going back to my original point. I’m still not convinced you actually need longer studs.

Rule of thumb on thread engagement is generally you want the same as the nominal diameter of the fastener. 1/2” bolt needs a 1/2” of thread engagement.

If your lug nuts are threaded to the tip of the cone, like most are, that’s where you start measuring the 1/2”. As long as you have the thread engagement, it doesn’t really matter whether you’ve got stud filling out the rest of the nut or not.

And for what its worth, that rule of thumb is mostly just for cutting threads. On properly designed and manufactured fasteners you can get away with less. That 1/2-20 nut I took a picture of up there is only 7/16” tall. 

 

[Joe Dirt]

Maybe i been missing something. I been changing tires/wheels since i was probably 12 years old. I'm 42 now. Maybe its a jeep thing but to have that little bit of bite ain't right. Id almost put money on if i was to torque those to 100 lbft id pull the threads out. I worked on quite a few fords n chevys in my day and never had lugs nuts catch so little threads. I been wrong b4 tho...